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T56 question... Are there years that wont work vs others? There is a local trans from a 95-96 Camaro that was attached to and LT1. Would this work well or should I pass, and what is a normal price to pay? Thanks in advance!
Not much to watch at the moment, just got the motor last month and with the cold my garage heater can't keep up to do **** for work at the moment. This is my thread
I've been re-doing the metal on my nova for 4 years now and I still have another year or so to go before I get to bodywork. I only work on the car 1 day a week so big limitation myself on getting progress.
T56 question... Are there years that wont work vs others? There is a local trans from a 95-96 Camaro that was attached to and LT1. Would this work well or should I pass, and what is a normal price to pay? Thanks in advance!
I have been reading about it for over an hour and it sounds like you can get conversion kits for around $400, I'm wondering if I would need this since my LQ4 has the longer crank and doesn't need the spacer like other LS motors...
It won't work. You need the spacer to line up the flywheel with the starter. The front plate conversion is not DIY friendly. You really need to know what you're doing because there are tapered bearing, and shims, and preload. It's complicated.
McLeod PN 460537 will alleviate the starter issues. I believe the LT1 input shaft is .400" shorter than the LS1, so it would work with the LS1 pilot bearing. Does the bellhousing bolt up? The LT1 also has a different throw-out bearing setup which features a fork, whereas the LS is hydraulic.
McLeod PN 460537 will alleviate the starter issues. I believe the LT1 input shaft is .400" shorter than the LS1, so it would work with the LS1 pilot bearing. Does the bellhousing bolt up? The LT1 also has a different throw-out bearing setup which features a fork, whereas the LS is hydraulic.
So since the LQ4 I have has the longer crank and the LT1 shaft is shorter it should work just right?.... the LT version should bolt up the same too since it can bolt up to early SBC and any SBC trans can bolt to an LS... That would just leave the fork style clutch which is not a problem if I can figure out how to connect a Z-bar? Would I be able to use a normal LT style clutch kit?
The second gen LT engines use a pull style clutch. They also had a shallower bellhousing because of the shorter input shaft. By the time you get a "special" flywheel and cobble together other parts, this is just not worth it.
If you want a less expensive alternative to a T56 Magnum, consider a TKO600. Or hold out and find a used T56 alternative. I'd to an OEM TR6060 before that LT style T56.
The second gen LT engines use a pull style clutch. They also had a shallower bellhousing because of the shorter input shaft. By the time you get a "special" flywheel and cobble together other parts, this is just not worth it.
If you want a less expensive alternative to a T56 Magnum, consider a TKO600. Or hold out and find a used T56 alternative. I'd to an OEM TR6060 before that LT style T56.
Andrew
I was just trying to make sense of it since there is a local LT T56 that I can grab for $1250 vs every transmission you listed being $2500 and up.. Looks like I may just have to stick with auto.
I took a few minutes this weekend to pop a valve cover off.. I was pretty happy with what I saw.. It was dirty but kinda clean at the same time.. no nasty sludge build up like the outside of the motor. Its good enough to me to run it like it is for a while.
Here is a video I did, the first part of the video will have the valve cover coming off and some footage so you can see what it looks like.. Let me know your opinion!
Unfortunately the early LQ4 is an odd duck, which makes manual trans selection tough. There's really no way to know for sure unless you actually tried to mate the T56 up - the question is whether you're willing to risk that it doesn't work, or are OK converting it. At the very least, the cost + conversion would be cheaper than an LS T56, and you'd be illuminating the path for others in a similar predicament.
As for clutch, I should clarify that the LT1 has a hydraulic setup, with the slave bolting to the lower driver's side of the bell housing and actuating a fork connected to the throw-out bearing.
Unfortunately the early LQ4 is an odd duck, which makes manual trans selection tough. There's really no way to know for sure unless you actually tried to mate the T56 up - the question is whether you're willing to risk that it doesn't work, or are OK converting it. At the very least, the cost + conversion would be cheaper than an LS T56, and you'd be illuminating the path for others in a similar predicament.
As for clutch, I should clarify that the LT1 has a hydraulic setup, with the slave bolting to the lower driver's side of the bell housing and actuating a fork connected to the throw-out bearing.
I think I am going to bag the manual setup this time around. My goal will be to get this motor going but I really want to build another once this is in.. so when I do I will make sure to start with a newer motor on this. I did read though on your build I think, that you used a 4L80e at the beginning and that it fit good? Can I run any 80 trans or only a matching year cause of my crank?
I bought the trans and engine combo, so it was an easy decision. However, I believe any 4L80e will bolt up to our engines. The harness would need the appropriate sensor connections (PRNDL, front and rear speed sensors, etc.).
I bought the trans and engine combo, so it was an easy decision. However, I believe any 4L80e will bolt up to our engines. The harness would need the appropriate sensor connections (PRNDL, front and rear speed sensors, etc.).
This will be the route I will go. I am almost positive this is what was attached to my engine to begin with. Now I need to research if there are any difference between years to make sure I get the proper one.
I think with my tax refund I will be buying the first piece to the puzzle.. I am thinking I will be buying the Holley 302-3 oil pan. I don't have to plans to turbo anytime soon but it will be nice to be ready in case the future brings that
sweet! drop the pan and make sure it doesn't have a fragment of intermediate snap ring in it. I also recommend a TransGo HD2 kit.
I will check that and look into it. I pursued this transmission cause you ran one in the beginning of your build and you said it fit well so that was good to know!
I posted this over in the fuel section but wanted it here too... In celebration of ordering my Holley EFI Sniper fuel tank I wanted to start working on my fuel system planning:
I had some free time at work today so I figured I would try and get my fuel system plan in the works. After reading through different threads and gleaning info here and there this is what I came up with. Now keep in mind this is basic and first run. I chose straight fittings when maybe angled fittings may be better but I won't know until I get under the car and start figuring routing. I was thinking making both feed and returns -8 so its prepped for future upgrades. I know many have said -6 is fine.. but it was kind of back and forth.. so yeah.. Its what's in the plan so far. Also.. I was thinking of adding a bulkhead splice on the firewall so I can splice any changes to fuel system down the road as needed depending on possible turbo.. or aftermarket manifold I may run.. just want a point that I can re-work from.
I have never done an LS swap or a fuel system for that matter so input is appreciated.
01-03-2018, 02:41 PM
