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Betsy, The '57 210 Belair Wagon LS376/480

 
Old 05-21-2018, 07:29 AM
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I PM'd Showdog, all the brakeline parts were from eBay. Search -3AN and 3/8x24 flare, you'll find it. I gave you links to the sellers.

Surprise, didn't leave town this weekend. Travel arrangements sure can be finicky. I've been avoiding the interior for a while, so I decided it was time to take a chunk out of it. Removed the remainder of the back seat, which was no small task as 4 screws were seized and 1 was stripped. Thank you to the one that cooperated! Once that was done, the sheet metal panels riveted to the stock floor at the front footwells were removed to see just how bad it really was... Oh yeah, really bad. Fortunately, the work site welding expert returned to town and got the driver's piece in place. It needs to be finished, but it's in place now. Looking forward to solid floors.






Then the next day, another helpful friend told me to get my wood out... he cut out the rear box pieces while I applied some rust protection, undercoating and fat mat. Quite the interior transformation, but we're not done yet.









Oh, and for fun, I installed the grill support bar and grill. I don't like the stock stuff, and it's expensive.

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Old 05-26-2018, 01:12 PM
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By chance have you seen Richie Crampton's 1957 wagon?

https://www.nhra.com/news/2018/cramp...-night-thunder
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:19 AM
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A nice long weekend means lots of progress on the car. Highlights include locospl welding in the floor patches and one of the quarter patches, receiving, tweaking, powder coating and installing some coil brackets, sanding, painting, fat-matting and the beginning of wiring. I must say, the Painless kit isn't as painless as they say, and there were certainly things they could improve about the kit. However, their wiring insulation has proven to be priceless as each one is marked with an identifying wire number, description of the wire's origin and the expected destination. Now THAT made the kit worth it in my eyes, even if I have to crimp ends that they probably could have done from the factory.










Many thanks to locospl, almost done with you! Next is terminating wires, running the primary power and ground wires, lay some carpet (heh) and move back to the engine bay. Then, interior assembly, ??? and profit.
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Old 06-11-2018, 08:41 AM
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Still wiring, not a lot to share on wiring... You know, connect Pin A to Pin X, Pin B to ground, great. Some things I have found interesting so far, my PSI Conversions harness had the wrong alternator exciter connector, needed a 4-pin and it had a 2-pin. Need to run Corvette accessories, and couldn't find a Corvette alternator with 2 pins, so I bought a pigtail and called PSI for how to wire it. Other surprises, the Painless body harness has a lot of AC related wires! Buying OEM style pigtails for various components, such as tail lights, back up lights, license plate lights, etc. Also bought a 30A fuel pump relay kit and installed it. Bought a stereo install kit, installed it. Front lighting is all wired, loomed and tucked. Wires to the back are roughly routed and grommeted. Need to get the PCM, TCM and Wideband located in the cab so I can plan on connections and routes for those associated wires.

Pictures of wiring will be taken when it's all routed. In the meantime, here's a set of calipers I did this weekend for my SS. Yes, white brake calipers, specifically pearl white with black Holden Racing emblems under clear. There's a mile of clear, so cleaning is a breeze. Seriously, a soft cloth on the face and it's clean.
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Old 06-11-2018, 11:08 AM
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Man, you're doing a bang up job !!!
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Old 06-19-2018, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367 View Post
Man, you're doing a bang up job !!!
Thanks! Feels like it's slowed to a crawl at the wiring.

Grommet this, loom that, secure these... I told my wife what I accomplished last Saturday, she's trying to be supportive... but I can see it on her face, "That's it?" I mean, when you say you spend 3 hours landing 7 wires, it does sound bad. But between routing, trimming, looming, securing, soldering and terminating all those wires, it just takes time. Fortunately, I think I see the end of the wiring in sight. The pictures don't show it, but the rear and front lights are all wired and secure, and all the ground straps are on. I went kind of overboard on ground straps, bought 2 kits of 3 straps each. Here's how they're installed:

1 x frame to front fender, DS
1 x frame to rear quarter, PS
1 x frame to floor, middle DS
1 x body to DS head, rear
1 x frame to block, DS

Here's how it sits now, it may look worse than when I started!




And I had to blow a little time to do some maintenance on my LS Hombre. A caliper was sticking and it pulled when I would slam on the brakes, and my T56 magnum rear seal was leaking (a common problem). Replaced the fbody calipers with candy green powder coated ones and replaced the seal.



Also, bit the bullet and bought factory air vents. Those suckers are expensive, and you can't find a used set. Then powder coated them LOL!

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Old 06-25-2018, 01:52 PM
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I haven't put much work into it, I had family in town. Since I couldn't put time in on the car, I did a little research to be prepared for the next time I touch it. On the wiring side, I was worried about how the Painless Wiring body harness would interact with the PSI Conversions harness, the Dakota Digital gauges, the fuel pump, etc. Basically, I wanted to make sure everything was accounted for before I lay some carpet (heh). I read each manual and generated a list of questions. Made some calls and had good and bad news...

The news was all good from Painless:
1) I have an ECM controlling the exciter wire for the alternator, so that wire can be wrapped up OR used to trigger a switched ignition item. Perfect, I can use that to trigger the Fuel pump relay!
2) The wire for fan signal can also be used as a switched signal wire, since the ECM will be controlling fans. Perfect, I'll use that for the Wideband relay!

Some good and bad news from PSI:
1) The brake switch on my Wilwood MC can be used for the TCC signal wire. Connect both purple wires to the 918 white wire on the Painless harness. Perfect, no additional brake switches!
2) The harness was made with 2 wires for the alternator. Corvette alternators have 4 pin connectors. Rewiring doesn't sound difficult, pigtail is on order. However, to make sure the system charges, the tune has to reflect "not equipped" under alternator settings for a 4 pin style connector. Through some deductive reasoning, we determined Vengeance set me up with an E38 PCM and TCM for an 09+ truck, since the Corvettes never got a 4l80e. That's a problem, as trucks never got a 4 pin alternator. I contacted Mike at Vengeance, he indicated the alternator setting was not changed. So if it's a truck tune, then it won't charge. Dang, so off the bat, the calibration is off. LSX Power Tuning appears to have experience with swap tuning, so I ordered a calibration and will be sending it off.

Meanwhile, the Corvette PS pump is an issue. It's documented on here that guys who do that pump and switch to 6AN for hydroboost lines have issues getting a fitting to clear the pulley. I installed a Russel fitting, it doesn't clear. I ordered the Detroit Speed fitting 090401 and tried to install it, but it must be the wrong fitting in the right P/N bag, as the OD of the threaded portion is 18+mm (Russel is 15+mm). Jegs has another on the way. Oh yeah, I do have a picture of that... this is with the pulley almost completely (but not) seated and the Russel fitting installed. It would definitely impact once the pulley is fully seated.


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Old 07-02-2018, 07:25 AM
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The PS fitting issue is resolved! Turns out the DSE fitting includes a flow valve that the Russell didn't, hence the extra business on the part that goes into the pump. By removing the stock stuff, the fitting sucks in nicely. Looking from the outside of the pulley, looks like it hits. However, from the inside between the pulley spokes, you can see there's space. Bullet dodged there!




The front seats came in from SCAT, really nice! We have plenty of this upholstery left and will use it throughout the interior. We're hunting for someone to do it all... we have the door cards, center console, rear seat and trunk parts all ready for upholstery.



Meanwhile, the brakes leaked from every copper nickel brake nut. I replaced the lines at the rear axle with braided 3an lines, but I need to take a hard look at the remaining lines. I may just replace them with SS lines.

This weekend, I installed a horn. Not a big deal at face value, but that was the last of the chassis harness in the engine bay. After a few more under the dash connections, the 3rd brake light and the courtesy lights, the body harness will be completely installed.

Also, PsychoSid helped a great deal in getting the trunk floor piece covered. The trunk floor is done as far as I know, now I can start landing wires from the car to the battery. And I had a chrome double wall tumbler sitting around, so I made myself a new pint glass. Priorities, you know.


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Old 07-02-2018, 09:11 AM
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Looking great. Keep the pics coming.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:39 PM
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Meanwhile, the brakes leaked from every copper nickel brake nut. I replaced the lines at the rear axle with braided 3an lines, but I need to take a hard look at the remaining lines. I may just replace them with SS lines

Did you go with double flares or AN flares?
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by showdog75 View Post
Did you go with double flares or AN flares?
Double flare. Everywhere there was a CuNi connection, it leaked. CuNi sure was fun when forming, but apparently, the "softness" requires a soft touch to make sure the flare doesn't fail. Since I don't want to risk it, 3AN SS lines and double flared stainless lines for me.
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:24 AM
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I'm running CuNi as i type. I'm doing all an flares and i sure hope i have better luck than you. I cringe at the thought of brake fluid ruining nice paint. Who's flaring tool did you use? I tried the Eastwood in there showroom and didn't get a good flare every time so i stuck with my Rigid 337 flare tool. In my limited experience I've not had good luck with double flares. I've got a double flare leaking now on my daily driver Duramax, ugh. In my studies I've read that double flare is a one time deal whereas AN can be taken on and off as much as needed for maintenance etc. I'll post my results when i test the system.
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Old 07-03-2018, 01:46 PM
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The Rigid tool is awesome. I never knew double flares were a one time use deal. Not sure if I buy that.
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Old 07-03-2018, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367 View Post
The Rigid tool is awesome. I never knew double flares were a one time use deal. Not sure if I buy that.
i probably shouldn't say one time deal but they will work harden and crack upon repeated removal and install. I did read recently that they are best when used once and left alone.
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Old 07-05-2018, 08:23 PM
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I used CuNi / Nicopp lines when I redid the hard lines on my Mustang's 8.8" a couple years ago. Used AN fittings with the 37deg single flares and haven't had any issues at all. I think you'll be fine, showdog75.
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Old 07-06-2018, 08:50 AM
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I don't want to go off topic with reguard to this thread ( sorry to THEMEANONWHEELS) but does CuNi / Nicopp lines come in 3/8"" IF so, does anyone have experience using this for fuel?

thanks,
Jim
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Old 07-06-2018, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367 View Post
I don't want to go off topic with reguard to this thread ( sorry to THEMEANONWHEELS) but does CuNi / Nicopp lines come in 3/8"" IF so, does anyone have experience using this for fuel?

thanks,
Jim
I'm using it but haven't got my swap finished. Easy to work with. All an 37 flares for me.
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Old 07-09-2018, 07:32 AM
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Alright, still wiring, but near the end. The wideband is done, so is the stereo, shift indicator, main power and ground, and all wiring to the back, including a courtesy light and a 3rd brake light. That last one will be interesting, I have a plan to use a Tahoe 3rd brake light inside the rear glass on the window garnish. The wiring left to do is to mount the PSI conversions fuse block and the Dakota Digital gauge cluster controller, then make grounds and supply wires. And A/C. Alright, so I'm past halfway.




Other little victories include putting the carpet down and mounting the remainder of the trunk components. Also, I had a little fun with the courtesy light function and decided to put the lights on the seat frame rather than in the roof. In the last hour on Saturday, I removed the upholstery on the upper portion of the rear seat. I'm going to send the covers to Scat to do a cover similar to the ones they did in the front, since their quoted timeline is within the window left for Cruisin the Coast (beginning of October). The to-do list is getting shorter, I'm a couple weekends from removing the motor and trans one more time for final install.







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Old 07-09-2018, 08:40 AM
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It looks really good. That is s a lot of work. Whats left?
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Old 07-09-2018, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367 View Post
It looks really good. That is s a lot of work. Whats left?
Thanks! Interesting you ask, I have a list of tasks I constantly update on my phone. Really pretty convenient for taking notes on serpentine belt lengths (4x lol), driveshaft measurements, things to buy when I'm in air conditioning, etc. The task list isn't all-inclusive or developed to the level of detail I feel it probably needs, as the main objective is only to be driving the car. Technically, powder coating all the exterior trim isn't necessary to drive it. But I digest, here's what's left on the list and a few relevant install notes:

To install when engine/trans is out:
#8 coil bracket
Steering rack banjo pressure fitting, watch orientation to avoid oil pan
Mount shifter to the floor when the trans comes out
Install the trans dipstick loosely when trans goes in

Task List:
Loom under the dash
Finish wiring for PCM to body harness
Mount PSI Conversions fuse block
Ground on DS/PS under dash
Add Fuel Pump switch
Recover rear seats
Install front and rear seats (include seatbelts)
Install ignition switch
Tint rear windows (PsychoSid)
Modify and install steering linkage (lengthen ~ 1.5")
Install core support/wire fans
Finish chassis mounts (extract 3 bolts, torque all mounts)
Install DS front floor brace
Install bumpers
Mount turn signals
Install hood (resolve hood release)

Again, not all inclusive. But the end is in sight.
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