jcastyo80

Thanks, Joe.
What are some examples of the wires from the engine harness that would not be used and tossed out?

On another note.
It looks like I won't be going with a 4L65-E after all but instead a 2007 4L60-E. I'm been trying to find answers as to running a GEN IV engine with older transmissions since I found out that pre-2007 trans are 13-pin and 2007-2008 are 15-pin for the ISS connector or something like that. So the transmission that is equipped on the donor vehicle of the engine I'm acquiring is a 6 speed, I'm assuming 6L80. I know there are aftermarket engine harness specific to the L92 that can work with a 2007 up 4L60-E but cost $650+ and if I could use the stock harness and make it work, that would be great and could put that savings into other stuff.
Engine: 2007 L92 Yukon Denali with 6 speed (AWD if that matters)
Trans: 2007 4L60-E 4 speed (vehicle unknown yet)

So with that:
Will the stock engine harness work with the 4L60-E?
Is there anything from the transmission donor I need to get? TCM?
Anything else to be aware of?

Thanks

jcastyo80

Ok guys I have been away for a few weeks but I finally got my engine and trans in yesterday and got to work taking off things I don't need like A/C compressor with bracket and the engine harness.



Quite a bit of oil build up on the bottom end but that will be taken care of with the new Holley pan. Also need to replace the power steering pump pulley which came in pretty dented, I just hope the pump isn't damaged as well. The connector on the water temp sensor also was broken so I need to get a new one. Hopefully overall the engine is good once I get the pan off I'll find out.

Just a few questions
1) The ECM came dinged up a bit, is it still usable? See below




2) What is this rail (green cap with blue connector) running along side the fuel rail used for? It has a tube towards the back of the engine on driver's side but it is cutoff and it runs along the fuel rails to the front and over the manifold to where there is a connection just behind the throttle body (see 2nd pic from top)

3) Not complaining but I was told the Trans came from a 2007 Tahoe but according to the tag its a 2008 shown in first pic and does that affect the fact that the engine ecm is a 2007 and tcm is possibly a 2008? Also where would the vent hose on top of the trans be routed or connected to anything?
4) Since this engine is an LS3 based engine are the oil dipstick tube and dipstick the same as equipped on LS3 engines? I ask because I bought the Holley 302-3 oil pan and some of the required parts are an LS3 oil dipstick tube and dipstick.
5) Does the flexplate or anything need to be changed out when mating the trans to the engine?

RobertD

iTrader: (4)

jcastyo80

Hadn't had much time to post updates but finally after 2 months I have the engine and transmission in and running, well sort of.
Here is a breakdown of the build so far:
L92 engine
4L60-E transmission
Holley LS swap motor mounts, transmission cross member and oil pan
American Autowire complete chassis wiring kit
BP Automotive engine harness
Lokar Sport Shifter





Its far from finished and of course there were lots of issues along the way.

I ran into an issue with the transmission cross member with the Lokar shifter. Since the shifter is cable driven, it was interfering with the cross member. I had already installed the cross member to the car and so I had to take it off and one thing I noticed is that it is notched open on the passenger side to clear the pan but there is non on the driver side. Therefore I went ahead a made an opening so the cable can just go through it and it worked out pretty good.

Headers - cheap Amazon from DNA. Overall they seem OK, they fit great on the passenger side but not so much on the driver side. The tube design had me scratching my head. The 2nd tube is running straight over the 3rd and 4th making finding wires that fit the last two spark plugs a pain in the rear. I finally settled on some Taylor 135 degree boot wires held with some zip ties, for now. I will eventually get some better designed headers. Also, the driver side collector just touches the Holley trans cross member, so I'll have to notched a corner of it.

Fuel delivery - went with Holley Sniper (Tanks Inc) which included the fuel pump. I also got the wix fuel regulator/filter. Used a bunch of fittings and adapters to run the fuel lines from the tank to the stock fuel line and then up into the engine fuel rail

Wiring - I just started the chassis wiring and have the rear section complete and half way done with the front section. I'm also going to clean up some of the wiring that was run for getting the engine started all of which run to the starter and alternator. I am also going to move the engine harness and computers into the cabin since I don't like how it turned out with all the clutter. FYI the battery location is just temporary.

Just a few concerns:
Hard starts - Hopefully someone could help me fix it. It takes several attempts (like up to 10) to get the engine started and when it does it is sputtering until it finally idles fine. I have a new battery, new starter, new fuel pump and new regulator. I noticed that fuel doesn't start to come out of the hose feeding into the fuel rail until the engine is cranking. I'm not sure if that is the way it's supposed to be or is it supposed to start supplying fuel when the key is set to ignition?

Brakes - Since the car had been sitting for over 10 years found issues with the brakes. Yes they are drum brakes but they will be replaced with disc all around. But in the meantime, the pads, the brake hoses, master cylinder, 2 cylinders inside the drum were replaced. Now, I don't know if its because the engine is putting out so much power but I have to pump the brakes several times to get enough pressure to be able to stop the car. Even just sitting idle and then putting the transmission in Drive or Reverse, it has a hard time holding the car still. Any ideas, other than getting discs?

Will post more along the way

BillyFargon

Looks like the hard work is done! Just cleaning up and tinkering/ fine tuning!

G Atsma

You might not have the brakes fully bled. Plus you don't have power brakes (you WILL want a booster with all discs), so the pedal will be harder to push.

jcastyo80

Thanks Billy! Just going through your build and seems like we both went with lots of the same parts like the Holley LS system. Made things a whole lot easier. Just didn't have the coin for their headers.
Yes lots of cleaning up and tinkering for sure, especially with wire routing and still have the pesky radiator hoses I have to deal with since I couldn't find some that fit properly.

jcastyo80

Yeah it just seems much harder than when I last drove it, but had the original 350. I just have to pump a few times to build up pressure. For sure a booster with discs all around.

G Atsma

Once brakes are properly bled, you should not have to pump them at all. One stab and it should all be there! If not, there are other issues.

jcastyo80

Ok will look into bleeding the brakes some more.

Another question, does anyone know what fitting goes on the gearbox for the steering shaft? I need to somehow adapt the original gearbox with the new ps pump.

BillyFargon

I literally JUST finished making my pressure line last night.

Here are the part numbers I used:
AER-FBM2965 Fitting, Straight, -6 AN Male to 11/16-18 in. Inverted Flare
AER-FBM2964 Fitting, Straight, -6 AN Male to 5/8-18 in. Inverted Flare
*If you dont want to use AN fittings then these at least show you the thread sizes.

Then I used earls high pressure -6 AN 90 degree fittings for each end and earls high pressure power steering hose.
This replicated a stock hose replacement. Then I had already purchased an adapter to go to back of the LS pump that is metric from Dirty Dingo
https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1414

Suncc49

The hard starts can be fixed sometimes in Novas by changing to the Ford style starter solenoid setup. Rob from SPPTV on Youtube has a good video on this with his 73 Nova.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

jcastyo80

Thanks Billy for the info. Did you purchase 2 adapters from Dirty Dingo? I don't have the stock lines so I can't compare, but I'm just wondering if I would be able to hook up stock hard lines along with those Dirty Dingo adatpers.

Thanks for the info Suncc49 and hookemdevils22. I watched the video from Rob and his issue was a clicking of the starter. I don't have clicking issues just a hard time starting the engine. It will turn on for a split second a few times, then slowly a little longer each time I turn the key until finally the engine runs. This is where I'm thinking its fuel delivery related. I just don't know where to start to figure out why I'm not getting the rails primed with fuel for startup. I'll keep digging for a solution.

Thanks again guys!

BillyFargon

Just one adapter is needed. It screws into back of pump. Then you can technically use the stock hose to screw into that. The problem I found is that the stock hose was too long and it put a weird bend or loop in the line just to make it fit. If you bent your factory ends some and found a good position for the hose to rest then you may be able to pull it off. I'm posting a video on youtube this evening showing exactly what I did if you are interested in checking it out.

jcastyo80

ok cool I'll check it out later!

jcastyo80

Been busy with finishing up the electrical wiring and now got all my lights working except the interior lights. Also been busy with trying tidy up the wiring in the engine bay and such.

Couple of quick questions:
1) I ended up mounting the ecm and tcm on the firewall as show in the pic. Should I be concerned about heat?


2) Going back to the power steering hoses, can the pressure side of the pump/reservoir
be plugged up temporarily until I get around to getting the hoses and if so what would the size of the thread be? The reason I ask is because I'm still sorting out other stuff and I occasionally start the engine and drive it a bit and don't wanna burn the ps pump.

Got some other update pics that I'll post soon.

BillyFargon

The PCM is usually on the inside fender on the trucks the motor came out of so I would say it should be ok there. (Right about where your relay box with fuses is in the pic but on the drivers side). They do have that plastic box deal around them though. I wouldn't be afraid to try it there.

jcastyo80

Hey thanks Billy! Wonder if those plastic boxes help any for heat or more for weatherproofing? As for as the relay box, I'm pretty much going to have it there but make some flat bracket to mount it.
Btw, saw your video on the ps hoses so that's why I'm wanting to kind of put it off for now, lol.

BillyFargon

You may be able to just use your stock power steering hose for now and just get that dirty dingo adapter.. it will just have a weird bend in it ...

I have the plastic cradle for the computer but not like a whole enclosure.. its bulky but if you think you would want it let me know and I could at least get you a pic..