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Looks good! I don't think there should be a problem with that clearance. Mine is really close too and I haven't had an issue.
Cool thanks Billy!! Hey btw, where did you get the seal that you used between the fan and radiator? I checked out Lowe's and thought about some window seals but I just used some foam pads from the new trans cooler on the corners but would like to do what you did on yours.
Cool thanks Billy!! Hey btw, where did you get the seal that you used between the fan and radiator? I checked out Lowe's and thought about some window seals but I just used some foam pads from the new trans cooler on the corners but would like to do what you did on yours.
This is the stuff I used cause it looked to have a higher temp rating... but I haven't done a good amount of driving yet to see how its going to hold up or if there will be any issues.
Ok. I have been away for quite a while but I finally got the fan mounted to the radiator. I had been wanting to buy an inexpensive metal bender since late November but was never able to find one so I went ahead and used the edge of a brick and a hammer. They didn't come out too bad. I ended up making U braces and mounted them underneath the radiator support and used the radiator support cover, which was modified a bit, for the top. I also used clips in the fan shroud to bolt to the braces. I still want to reinforce the top with some bolts but this will do for now. I also ended up putting some parts back on the car like the front bumper and cowl panel and windshield wipers. Took it for a test drive. I only have one relay and only used the low speed of the fan and it kept temps under 197° in 85°+ weather.
Now the bads.
1) While on my test drive the car wouldn't shift into 3rd. The engine would just rev but would not shift and go, and I noticed that if I gave it a little more gas then it would race and shift. When I got back home and the car warmed up I checked the trans fluid level and it was on the cold end, I ended up filling up to the hot mark. Drove it back out but was still doing the same thing. Its like it trying to catch the gear but it doesn't. Any ideas what could be the culprit? Converter? Shift Solenoids? I hope I didn't burn anything out for running it low on fluid
One quick note: I was reading on some possible issues and mainly with torque converters. If there is not enough fluid pressure going through the transmission it could cause some issues? As I was trying to figure out how to run the transmission cooling lines to the external cooler in front of the radiator, I kinked one of the hard lines. Could this be an issue or cause of the issue?
2) Upon start up the cold idle oil pressure is about 50-60psi and once it has warmed up, the idle is about 20psi. I did notice the pressure rise on the test drive but the idle pressure concerns me and don't know if it is normal. I even saw it idle down to about 13psi when I was done with my test drive. Is something gone wack with my engine? BTW, the gauge is a cheap mechanical Bosch one. Any ideas?
Ok so from what I have been told from several people and searching different sites, it does indeed point to the 3-4 clutch pack. Yesterday, I started the process of removing the transmission by draining the fluid from the pan and removing the electrical connections.
Here are the results of the fluid. It is a very murky brownish/reddish color and it has a funky smell.
Ok so while I was under there I noticed that the top of the transmission is hitting the floor tunnel. Is it because of the spacer plate under the transmission mount or is it because the body mounts are so worn out?
Oil pressure can be as low as single digits. In fact, I think the C5 warning light comes on a something like 5psi. You have a pretty wild swing, though. Mine goes from just over 40 cold to about 35 warm. Are you running 5w-30?
The 4L60e should easily fit in the Nova trans tunnel. I'd definitely check the body mount bushings, unless your engine mount plates position the engine higher than most (I forget what you got). Regarding the lack of 3rd, you can certainly try solenoids or VSS, since they're easy to do in the car; but my money is on the 3/4 clutch pack.
Oil pressure can be as low as single digits. In fact, I think the C5 warning light comes on a something like 5psi. You have a pretty wild swing, though. Mine goes from just over 40 cold to about 35 warm. Are you running 5w-30?
I believe I did use 5w-30. Should I go a little thicker?
Originally Posted by hookemdevils22
The 4L60e should easily fit in the Nova trans tunnel. I'd definitely check the body mount bushings, unless your engine mount plates position the engine higher than most (I forget what you got). Regarding the lack of 3rd, you can certainly try solenoids or VSS, since they're easy to do in the car; but my money is on the 3/4 clutch pack.
The mounting system I am using is the Holley mounts and transmission cross-member. I'll replace the body mounts since they are the originals and are crushed and distorted, so hopefully that gives me the extra room for the tranny.
The trans fluid was new and probably doesn't have more than 50 miles from all my test driving. Transmission seemed fine at first but then suddenly the loss of 3rd gear. At partial/normal throttle it acts like if its in neutral, but if I give it some more gas, it grabs a little bit but feels like I'm in 1st gear.
Did you put the 1/2 spacer under the forward body mount? That should get you the space you need for the trans.
No I didn't. I didn't know I was supposed to, I guess I missed that tip. Is it just a thick washer or something? Anway, thanks for the heads up petro. I went ahead and ordered the Energy Suspension body mount kit and should be arriving today, so hopefully that will give me the clearance I need.
As far as the transmission, it has been confirmed that the 3/4 clutches are burned so I'm getting the trans rebuilt. Is there anything that can be done to beef it up a bit?
This definitely set me back a bit since I could have used the money into other parts of the car
Just to be clear there is a 1/2 metal body spacer in addition to the energy suspension poly kit. I went to McMaster Carr and ordered 2 1/4 thick 3.5inch round spacers per side.
Really confusing why the energy suspension kit does not compensate for this.
As far as the transmission, it has been confirmed that the 3/4 clutches are burned so I'm getting the trans rebuilt. Is there anything that can be done to beef it up a bit?
Yes. There's A LOT you can do to beef it up. Beast or Sonnex sunshell, Zpak clutches, upgraded servos, and shift kit at a minimum. There's much more you can do, but I'd consider those essential for a performance rebuild. Plus you might as well throw in an aftermarket torque converter.
Yes. There's A LOT you can do to beef it up. Beast or Sonnex sunshell, Zpak clutches, upgraded servos, and shift kit at a minimum. There's much more you can do, but I'd consider those essential for a performance rebuild. Plus you might as well throw in an aftermarket torque converter.
Other than the corvette servo, are there any others to get?
Which shift kit do you recommend? Do you mean like the Transgo 4L60E HD2 Reprogramming Kit?
So here is a list of parts for the transmission. The transmission, btw, is a 2008. Will these work?
Just to be clear there is a 1/2 metal body spacer in addition to the energy suspension poly kit. I went to McMaster Carr and ordered 2 1/4 thick 3.5inch round spacers per side.
Really confusing why the energy suspension kit does not compensate for this.
Ok so I finished the driver side of the mounts and I know what you meant petro, I had to reuse the 1/2" metal spacer that was in the mid section of the frame. It seems like it made a difference in the gap between the body and the frame. I can actually get my hands in between. Hope this gives me the clearance with the transmission.
Thanks
2) Upon start up the cold idle oil pressure is about 50-60psi and once it has warmed up, the idle is about 20psi. I did notice the pressure rise on the test drive but the idle pressure concerns me and don't know if it is normal. I even saw it idle down to about 13psi when I was done with my test drive. Is something gone wack with my engine? BTW, the gauge is a cheap mechanical Bosch one. Any ideas?
Mine runs around 40psi cold and 20psi warm at idle around 800rpm. I use 10w30. It's been like this since I first got it running in 2016 and so far no catastrophic failure, but I'm considering swapping to a high volume pump because like you it makes me a little nervous.
You can use a shop air nozzle to check the gauge accuracy as long as your shop air also has a gauge. I did that with my factory sending unit, reading the OBDII port to see what pressure was reported by the computer. I have a Speedhut CAN-BUS gauge that reads a few PSI lower than what the factory sending unit reports over OBDII (which is extra odd since the CAN-BUS gauge relies on the same signal). I would not be surprised if your gauge is off by a few psi one way or the other.
Those are essentially the exact parts I had put in mine. Now, you should check which pieces were updated by 2008, and talk to a specialist if you're farming the work out (and probably even if you're rebuilding it yourself).
Ok so I should be getting my trans back on Saturday and just wanted to make sure on the bolts for the bellhousing to engine. I got some ARP bolts and wanted to know if I should apply some anti-seize to them? Also, from what I have read, they should be torqued to 35 ft lbs?
The OEM bolts should be fine. anti-seize isn't required, but doesn't hurt. stock is 35 lb-ft, but ARP says 54 lb-ft. ARP also recommends their assembly lube, but I'd just use anti-seize instead.
The GOOD:
It's been about 2 weeks since I got my rebuilt transmission back on the car and so far so good. Shifting real nice, not pushing it yet though. I finally got rid of my bench seat (you can see it standing up on the passenger side window) and got some Scat Rally buckets installed and they turned out nice, only complaint from which I read from others is they are narrow for larger people. They do fit quite snug and the adapter brackets raise the height of the seat a couple of inches and I'm only 5 7 250lbs so I can imagine a taller person would not like them very much. I still need to drill the four holes to bolt the interior of the brackets. Once i get that done then time for some carpet the interior panels and re-upholster the rear seat to match the buckets. I ordered the cowl hood the same time as the buckets so I'm still waiting for that to come in.
The BAD:
Of course with some progress some other issue pops up
I never noticed any issues with the belt slipping before and I have gone back to my pictures and don't notice it but now I'm getting some belt slippage on the crank pulley and power steering pulley. Seems like right after I got the transmission back and the car running again this issue popped up. See below. The last picture with the arrow is showing to what looks like me is the power steering pulley crooked. I don't know if the culprit is the power steering pulley or the tensioner pulley. When I got the engine last year the power steering pulley was damaged but replaced. From pictures I had seen of the donor Yukon, there was front driver side damage which accounts for the damaged pulley.
10-22-2018, 12:08 PM
when I was done with my test drive. Is something gone wack with my engine? BTW, the gauge is a cheap mechanical Bosch one. Any ideas?
