243

The L59 Yukon manifolds would have caused interference with the frame of the Cherokee on the drivers side and the bottom of the firewall on the passenger side so I picked up a take-off set of LS3 manifolds. I noticed and was surprised to see the outlet is 2.125" but if I remember, the Camaro output is well over 400hp so I figure that is fine for a 180K mile 5.3 in a rusty Heep.

First question, there appears to be plenty of room to open them to 2.25" but is that a waste of time?

I intend to weld v-bands and will probably cut the ears off the manifolds at the same time, to clean it up a bit.

Second question, I am running full duals, an x and dumping out behind the rear wheels, should I buy 2.5" pipe or is 2.25" more than enough?




I made my own mounts and bought Speeway universal pucks but I was not happy with any part of the kit except the washers so I started looking for polyurethane bushings and everything I found was too large, too short or stupid expensive, I even considered hockey pucks. The light went off and I went to Harbor Freight and returned with two polyurethane casters, about 15 minutes later I had two bushings for 5.99 plus tax.

Hope that helps others who may not find what they need from the conventional sources.









Progress is slower than I want but I bought and parted out an 89 Grand Wagoneer to have a rolling chassis to work on in lieu of tearing down the Cherokee. I also needed a centered rear axle and it came with D44's and a drivers side front axle so I had to buy another NP241C. I would prefer the shifter on the drivers side anyway.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I would go with 2.5" exhaust.

Also, check out the Hooker cast manifolds. They use the same flange as the manifolds you have, but are much tighter to the block. They come with the mating flanges for your exhaust.

Andrew

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

The Hooker manifolds exit more towards the rear -- not straight down like the Camaro manifolds pictured. Don't know if that makes a difference to the OP or not. Speedway Motors makes a cast stainless steel manifold with 1.75" primaries and 3" collectors that exits straight down, and a bit further forward, than the manifolds pictured above. Perhaps an alternative. Picture of them (after coating) below. I too would suggest a 2.5" system.

Attachment 713690

Attachment 713689

showdog75

iTrader: (8)

2.5" minimum imo.

jarheadl34

iTrader: (2)

Forget the v bands and run stock flanges that bolt to your manifold.

243

Sounds like a consensus on 2.5"

The LS3 manifolds were cheap and solved the issues created by the L59 manifolds and I will stick with them.


I would use factory flanges if I had a set, no luck finding them.

jarheadl34

iTrader: (2)

Probably someone on here who has put headers on his car and has the stock pipes just sitting there. Or a performance shop that puts on headers or even a junk yard.

G Atsma

A good muffler shop should have the flanges, or should be able to get them

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Ask Joe where he got his:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...2-nova-54.html

He is building a turbo system with stock manifolds that have the same flange.

Andrew

243

Thanks to all for the help but I posted earlier about finding or making flanges and others suggested using v-bands, that is the direction I am going.

It appears to be simple and inexpensive solution.