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1966 chevelle oil pan issues hitting the drag link

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Old 05-23-2018, 09:26 PM
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Default 1966 chevelle oil pan issues hitting the drag link

I have a 66 chevelle with a 6.0 , I did a search and seems I have the right pan , im running a humer pan which fits nice but the drag link hits the oil pan. Im running stock small block mounts with a set of adaptor plates seems like the motor needs to me raised about 1" anybody with 66 67 chevelle give me a little in site don't really want to buy a $400 holley pan
Old 05-23-2018, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by pan58head
I have a 66 chevelle with a 6.0 , I did a search and seems I have the right pan , im running a humer pan which fits nice but the drag link hits the oil pan. Im running stock small block mounts with a set of adaptor plates seems like the motor needs to me raised about 1" anybody with 66 67 chevelle give me a little in site don't really want to buy a $400 holley pan
The Holley pan is by far your best option. The hummer pan is too thick at the front and your sump and hangs down lower then your front crossmember which could be a disaster on a big bump. Another option would be to find an F-body pan and have it modified to fit or modify your crossmember to fit it in.
Old 05-24-2018, 06:37 AM
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You need a Holley 302-2 pan...……...
Old 05-24-2018, 07:32 AM
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How much does the f body pan need to be modified , I have a access to one
Old 05-24-2018, 07:58 AM
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The front of the sump area needs to be cut back and welded back up to clear the crossmember. Do a search for modified f body pan and I'm sure you will see some pictures.

Here's a link regarding the F body pan in A body cars.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...p-oil-pan.html

Last edited by 1964SS; 05-24-2018 at 08:13 AM.
Old 05-24-2018, 11:13 AM
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If you are interested in using the F-body pan, I would highly recommend that you notch the K-member instead of modifying the pan since that will reduce its oil capacity.
Old 06-10-2018, 08:33 AM
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Yeah notch the frame and re weld the same piece of frame or other metal back in.
Its what we did years back. I think a V pan hits the drag link also when we tried it. Barely hit tho
Old 06-10-2018, 02:50 PM
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Do it the "Correct" way...…...Holley 302-2 pan...…..end of story !!!!!!!
Old 06-12-2018, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1 pwrd NOVA
Yeah notch the frame and re weld the same piece of frame or other metal back in.
Its what we did years back. I think a V pan hits the drag link also when we tried it. Barely hit tho
DirtyDingo has all the measurements for the oil pan options. The 302-2 looks like it should clear the issue, but the sump looks longer than the hummer pan which may contact your crossmember. I just want to make sure you don't trade one problem for a more expensive one.

I have the Autokraft pan which is very slim at the front(1,75'' vs 1.35 for the 302-2), but I still contact due to dropping the engine about 1/2'' from the 'member. IMO, it's better to deal with the known issue, then to pay ~400$ for a solution that is not guaranteed (not hating on the holley pan, just trying to point out that modifying the hummer pan should be much cheaper and addresses the only current issue).
Old 06-12-2018, 02:19 PM
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The hummer pan shouldn't ever be used in a swap..
Old 06-13-2018, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JetMech442
DirtyDingo has all the measurements for the oil pan options. The 302-2 looks like it should clear the issue, but the sump looks longer than the hummer pan which may contact your crossmember. I just want to make sure you don't trade one problem for a more expensive one.

I have the Autokraft pan which is very slim at the front(1,75'' vs 1.35 for the 302-2), but I still contact due to dropping the engine about 1/2'' from the 'member. IMO, it's better to deal with the known issue, then to pay ~400$ for a solution that is not guaranteed (not hating on the holley pan, just trying to point out that modifying the hummer pan should be much cheaper and addresses the only current issue).
The Holley pan is made for the application and works every time.
Old 06-13-2018, 09:57 AM
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I have a modified F-body pan and pickup tube in my 67 A-body, only because when I did the conversion there was no Holley pan. I wouldn't mess around, purchase the Holley unit and be done. My modified pan fits great now, but I can still get the oil pressure flight to flicker under hard braking followed by hard acceleration. Purchase the oil trap from Holley as well. The next time I have my engine out for any reason I will be installing the Holley kit and my F-body stuff will be for sale.
Old 06-14-2018, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 67skylark
i have a modified f-body pan and pickup tube in my 67 a-body, only because when i did the conversion there was no holley pan. I wouldn't mess around, purchase the holley unit and be done. My modified pan fits great now, but i can still get the oil pressure flight to flicker under hard braking followed by hard acceleration. Purchase the oil trap from holley as well. The next time i have my engine out for any reason i will be installing the holley kit and my f-body stuff will be for sale.
x 100...……………..
Old 06-14-2018, 11:54 AM
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Not to beat a dead horse but....Holley 302-2 in a 66 here as well. No issues.
Old 06-14-2018, 07:16 PM
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As a fellow 66-67 A body owner, is there a reason to choose the Holley 302-2 pan over the 302-3 pan? I was under the impression the newer 302-3 would provide more tie rod clearance in our cars. Sorry for the hijack but I thought this info might help the OP as well.
Old 06-14-2018, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by s30.hybrid
As a fellow 66-67 A body owner, is there a reason to choose the Holley 302-2 pan over the 302-3 pan? I was under the impression the newer 302-3 would provide more tie rod clearance in our cars. Sorry for the hijack but I thought this info might help the OP as well.
The tie rod clearance in the A-body applications is the same with either pan. However, the 302-3 pan will provide more clearance for the engine crossmember on 64-67 A-bodies when using the Hooker forward bias engine mounting brackets. It also has greater crank stroke clearance and turbo drain-back ports.




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