G Atsma

I agree with this! Lap the valves (still a good idea...) and put it together, and have fun! It will be a pleasant surprise how good it will run!

Cheese Weasel

I noticed that you said you were going to try to use the truck front accessory drive - I'm pretty sure that the alternator will be mounted too high to allow you to close the hood (I tried the same thing with the L92 in my thirdgen). The easy solution is to use the FEAD from the '98-'02 F-body cars.

Good luck with the project!!

mkearney86

Just to address this, I actually have a bracket from LSX innovations that lowers the alternator. It's still on the truck spacing but sits around the height of my LS6 intake.

It's starting to warm up a bit here so I'm hoping to make some spring progress soon. The cold has kept me inside. I have however picked up some new odds and ends, knock sensors, plugs/wires,crank pulley. Still debating rebuilding the short block, either way my goal is to have it running before next winter. I'd like to pick up a welder this summer so I can do some other work on the car that needs doing. Looking forward to learning about that.

jimmyg

You can use a 2010 Camaro water pump ( no spacers . I would relocate the idler pulley . Dirty dingo sells a kit . The truck fead should fit depending on mounts . I would use the Holley mounts if they make them for your application .

mkearney86

Couple questions on rebuilding this thing. I'm looking at rebuilding the bottom end. I would like to reuse crank and rods, and have the block bored, which means new pistons. Summit has just launched their forged LS piston series and they make them up to 3.820 for my engine (0.040 over) which would be $600 for the pistons and rings. So I'm looking at factory block bored to 3.82, stock gen 3 crank and rods, forged pistons, 862 heads, and LS6 intake. Would that combo be alright?
If I thought I might go turbo later, would it still be ok on the bottom end, at which time I could do heads/cam again to go with the turbo? (Not sure I'd go turbo, but I'm entertaining the possibility)

Any thoughts or suggestions? Should I consider gen 4 rods too for some more strength? how bad of overkill is all this if I stay NA and don't ever go turbo?

Here's the summit pistons : https://www.summitracing.com/search/...4%2B4294879469

BLK95-Z

iTrader: (2)

Gen 3 rods are fine if just going NA but before I did all that work to the 4.8 I'd just try and locate a newer, lower mile 5.3. The 04-06 gen3 5.3's have the better rods and coated pistons

The gen4 5.3 (07+) will have the better rods with floating pins, coated flat top pistons and 243/799 heads if you plan to possibly go turbo in the future. They can be had in my area for $400-$500 complete. You will have to delete the AFM but you'll be doing a cam swap anyways.

mkearney86

Well, I'm actually in Frankfort. Where would you look for the gen 4 5.3? All I see on craigslist/facebook are older ones for at least $500, I rarely even see gen 4 stuff for sale.

BLK95-Z

iTrader: (2)

I was a pull-a-part here in Louisville last Friday and seen atleast a dozen gen3 5.3's in Suburbans, Tahoe's and trucks. They charge $159 + $50 core charge for ANY v8 engine without accessories. $189 with accessories. I didn't see any gen4's this time but I do fairly often. A month ago they had an aluminum LH6 with 799 heads but it was gone fairly quick. You just have to watch the inventory on their site. Buying an engine from a wreck is almost always guaranteed to be good as long as the oil pan is in tact.

I also have a contact for another guy here in town that parts out LS powered wrecks he buys from auction and sells the engines complete with accessories for $400. He starts them before pulling also. If he doesn't have a gen4 engine he can certainly get you one but it might be a bit more. Feel free to PM me if you're interested and I'll get you his info

mkearney86

I have my 700r4 out now, I'm wondering what I should or can do with it while it's out? Corvette servo?

Should I do anything with the torque converter? I assume it's the stock one that went with the 305.

I don't know a ton about transmissions. Anything worth repairing/rebuilding myself?

mytmouz

iTrader: (2)

Upgrade the sunshell. I always have used the Beast, but there are others. Corvette servo is nice. The stock vette converter is slightly more stall speed. A transgo shift kit usually went in as well...

Cheese Weasel

OK, I don't mean to be critical or demeaning in any way, but what I'm seeing in several of your posts is a bit of a tendency toward "scope creep" - and that has taken a HELL of a toll on my project, and delayed it's completion significantly. I would recommend setting a well-defined goal, & sticking to that to the extent possible. (Obviously if you pull the heads & find evidence of detonation, or something like that, yeah you address that but you try to suppress the urge to say "Hell, while I'm in here, I might as well...")

Of course it's your project, but my hope is to help you avoid the delays of going down some of the "rabbit holes" that I've explored...

mkearney86

Oh, I don't disagree, I definitely have done that. I think I'm past that point though. And I just want to put it all together now. I'm getting closer.

mkearney86

Trying to figure out my options for the throttle body. I have the stock 78mm three bolt truck DBW throttle body. I can either get the electronic pedal and go to DBW or get a DBC TB that will fit my LS6 intake. Not sure what's most cost effective and price vs performance. Or if I'll have more trouble tuning one or the other. I have HP tuners but it will be my first time tuning (I really just want to get the basics so it runs decent, not major performance tuning right off the bat).

If I go DBW and keep this TB, I'll need electronic pedals and the mount adapter for it from Hawks. If I go DBC I will need a new throttle body. Is there a good option for a stock or near stock size TB that is 3 bolt and DBC that isn't $400? Should I just spend $400 on one to avoid issues in the future? Or just try and use what I have with DBW pedals?

Here's one I've looked at, although I'm willing to spend more on one IF it's necessary.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Holle...ck,392132.html

dawgs74

Go dbc. User friendly more tunable, less chance of failure. .........period! !!!!