BrandonHall10

Pushrods came today. Seem decent. Definitely heavier than the stock ones.



And they are longer than the stock ones, so that's good.



They actually measured about 0.010" longer than advertised.



All back together. Most of them ended up at zero lash plus 1-1/4 turns. One was less than one full turn, and a couple were 1-1/2 turns, but all within spec (as I understand...).



Back to the harness.

BrandonHall10

I got all the loom stripped off the harness. Tomorrow I should be able to get the grimy/greasy plug ends cleaned and all the unnecessary circuits pulled out. Found something interesting on the alternator pigtail.



Fixed with a little bit of liquid electrical tape and some heat shrink tube.

BrandonHall10

Got the harness trimmed down. Pretty much just pulled out the EGR connector and the C100, C152 and C153 plugs.



Before I laid the harness back on the engine, I wanted to spin it over to build oil pressure. I cranked it till I saw a max of something in the high 40's for ohms.



And the reason I waited on the laying the harness was so I could leave the valve covers off and verify the top end was getting oil. Looks good.



I'll start rewrapping the harness with some clean loom. Once I get my headers and EGR block off, I should be able to test fire this pig on the stand.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Looking good. Keep up the good work.

BrandonHall10

Thanks man! I appreciate the encouragement.

EGR block off came today. Probably be the only emissions system I delete since it has to pass the sniffer. I'm even leaving in the post cat O2's



I really like the black. Almost disappears.



More loom work.







There's probably about one more evenings worth of work on looming pigtails before I call it good enough for now. I'm not going to loom the larger harness sections until it's in the truck. I still need to add wires for things like the OBDII plug, MIL, tach output, TCC/brake switch, 4wd signal switch etc. And even though I'm not running AC or electric fans right now, I'm going to run the control wires.

BrandonHall10

Well, I got absolutely nothing done on the engine. Had to take the boy to soccer practice. yay. I did get some parts though. Right side PCV hose was badly cracked. Surely would have been a vacuum leak.



New hose was like $9, so I went for it.



Also chopped one plug off the old Yukon harness. I'll use this to make a break in the K10 harness for all the things I mentioned earlier that need to feed into the cab. (OBDII plug, MIL, tach output, TCC/brake switch...)

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Are you just butt splicing when reusing various connectors?

Andrew

BrandonHall10

I like doing a western union splice with solder and a couple layers of heat shrink. I've heard guys say crimp connectors are better for an automotive application, but I have terrible luck with them. Probably user error, but the solder joint has never let me down.

I want the Yukon out of here before I rip the K10 apart, so it needs to go SOON. Pulled off the last couple things I think I'll need. Am I forgetting anything? (Trans cooler and PS cooler not pictured)



Got some more parts today. Biggest thing was the headers, but I didn't even unwrap them. Not going to mount them until the better header bolts I ordered arrive. Also got the coolant temp sensor pigtail. I want to keep all the factory gauges working. Once that's soldered in, I can loom that section of harness.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Wished I was closer so I could take that clean roller off your hands. Here in NY we would never find a body that clean...

BrandonHall10

GMT 800 rollers are a dime a dozen out there. Half of the Craigslist ads are "No motor, no trans" listings. I'll consider it a win if I get $300 for what's left. On the flip side, I'm going to bet you can get a low mile Gen 3 motor and harness a LOT cheaper out there. 9/10 times the engine will out live the truck in the rustbelt, Not the case here.

Got my fancy $7 fuel rail gauge fitting. Hydraulic fittings are great!



Just need my $20 Jegs gauge. I really like knowing the pressure at the rail.



Did a little housekeeping. Getting ready for something...



LM7 build is on pause for a week or two. Building a 4L60e for a buddy.

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

Is that -4AN female to 1/8" NPT female?

If so, where'd you find that?

EDIT: Looks like this will do the trick, with no need for the brass 90.

nobox351y

iTrader: (1)

Great start to a swap. I know you have said you are not doing ac at this point, but Im interested to hear where you think you will mount the compressor. I would like to keep it in the stock engine location on my 87 burb but im not sure that is going to work with the mounts and space between the frame rail.

BrandonHall10

Exactly. -4AN female to 1/8" NPT female. Well, 1/4" JIC female swivel to 1/8" NPT female. I couldn't find the exact "AN" fitting I needed, and I didn't want to bush it down. Plus the JIC fittings are dirt cheap. Half of that $7 was shipping. If I planned on doing a bunch of builds, I would buy multiples and have them on a shelf.

Thanks! Yeah, I prefer stock location just because it's usually cheaper in the long run. I sold the compressor already, but I do still have the bracket. When I get the motor set in I'll snap some pictures. See if it's a matter of notching the frame, or if it just won't happen there.

Got my header bolts and 3 wire coolant temp sensor today.



Promptly mounted the headers which, I'll admit, was a waste of time and space but I love that look!



Okay. Everything I had on order has now arrived. NOW the build is on hold.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Please do not hang a gauge on the rail as a permanent item. Check out this video:


I had that FP sensor on the rail of my GTO. I accidentally discovered that it was about to fall off and hose down my engine compartment with fuel. It would have burned the car to the ground. That little nipple on the rail is not designed to be stressed on a continuous basis. The weight of a gauge hanging on it combined with engine vibration will eventually cause a stress failure.

Andrew

SE-R Spec

iTrader: (2)

Fantastic build man! I am really excited to see this finished up!

One bit of criticism. You ***really*** should have spent some money for some stock replacement lifters with that new cam especially when you had the motor torn down that far.

Great job otherwise!

JayinMI

Do you have an alternate suggestion? I'm nowhere near ready for it, but I'd love to know a better way.

Jay

BrandonHall10

I see what you're saying. That fitting was definaley an issue. It looks like the rail in that video is constructed differently than the one I have. Probably a bit more weight on that setup than my little 1-1/2" gauge also. I've been running that same fitting and gauge setup on my S10 for almost 2 years now without issue.

Having said all that, I will keep a close on on my fuel rail test port. Thanks for looking out!

I respect your criticism. It's a fair point. I could almost swing the $100 for new lifters without issue, but then you need head studs (or bolts) and head gaskets. All the junk adds up quick.

Thanks for following!

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

On my Cougar I used billet fuel rails that have very strong fittings. If you want to use stock rails you can remote mount a sensor or gauge. Just use an AN hose from the fitting on the rail.

Mine lasted for about 10k miles, until it didn't....There is really no reason to have a gauge on the rail full-time. It's handy to have when you're ready to fire it up and obviously for diagnostic purposes if you ever have an issue.

Andrew

BrandonHall10

Waiting on transmission parts. Spent some time on the engine... IT RUNS AGAIN!!


I guess I start pulling the K10 apart now?

BrandonHall10

Update:

The Yukon shell is tentatively sold for $500. Guy gave me $100 to hold it, balance to be paid on 10/20. I'm counting my chickens before they hatch here but...

Bought running Yukon for $1000, sold the t-case for $350, some other misc pieces and parts for $150 and the shell for $500. That's a payback of $1000! That makes the motor, transmission and all the other little trinkets I pulled FREE!! Only as far as dollars are concerned though. I worked my butt off to get them out. Still calling that a win.



The 4L60e I was building for a buddy is finally done and should be picked up tomorrow.



This clears my plate to focus on the K10 disassembly. Unfortunately, do to the way vehicles are situated I really can't decommission the K10 until the Yukon is gone. So I guess I spend the next few days planning and researching...