1984 K10 w/ 2001 LM7 Build
10-20-2018, 05:37 PM
#82
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Well that didn't last long. The Yukon wasn't even gone half a day before I filled the spot with something else.
It's a 2006 2wd 2500HD. LQ4/MT1 (6.0/80e) with 300k on the odo. Needs some work, but the price was right.
1.) Has a code for a fuel level sensor causing a CEL. Thinking I'll just put a whole new pump module in due to the miles. Assuming that's the cause of the code. Need to research.
2.) It pours water out the back of the right head just as quick as you dump it in the reservoir. I can reach my hand back there and feel a trail of goo coming from the plug location. Have to pull the head to fix. (?)
3.) There's something rattling underneath. Sounds like flexplate. Could be a heat shield.
4.) The U-joint is doinked. It maybe kind of entered the space that the spinning pinion yoke occupied. Needs a 1410 U-joint, 1 strap and a couple bolts.
5.) Some of the gauges don't work. I guess that's pretty common in the GMT800 clusters. Probably just get one of those cheap OBDII dash display things. I'm not about paying to have the cluster rebuilt.
Contrary to everything I've done in the past, this one is not coming apart. It's no beauty queen, but it's a 1 owner clean title truck. I'm going to fix what's wrong and run it till it quits or gets hit. For what I paid, I won't feel bad when either one of those things happen. Be nice to have a decent tow rig and something that will haul a heavy load.
Needless to say, this will take priority over the K10. At least I got this before I tore the K10 apart.
It's a 2006 2wd 2500HD. LQ4/MT1 (6.0/80e) with 300k on the odo. Needs some work, but the price was right.
1.) Has a code for a fuel level sensor causing a CEL. Thinking I'll just put a whole new pump module in due to the miles. Assuming that's the cause of the code. Need to research.
2.) It pours water out the back of the right head just as quick as you dump it in the reservoir. I can reach my hand back there and feel a trail of goo coming from the plug location. Have to pull the head to fix. (?)
3.) There's something rattling underneath. Sounds like flexplate. Could be a heat shield.
4.) The U-joint is doinked. It maybe kind of entered the space that the spinning pinion yoke occupied. Needs a 1410 U-joint, 1 strap and a couple bolts.
5.) Some of the gauges don't work. I guess that's pretty common in the GMT800 clusters. Probably just get one of those cheap OBDII dash display things. I'm not about paying to have the cluster rebuilt.
Contrary to everything I've done in the past, this one is not coming apart. It's no beauty queen, but it's a 1 owner clean title truck. I'm going to fix what's wrong and run it till it quits or gets hit. For what I paid, I won't feel bad when either one of those things happen. Be nice to have a decent tow rig and something that will haul a heavy load.
Needless to say, this will take priority over the K10. At least I got this before I tore the K10 apart.
10-21-2018, 09:38 AM
#83
Brandon, the cluster problem is extremely common. Is yours the 6 or 7 gauge cluster?
The problem is the stepper motors go bad. You can pick them up on ebay. There's a few Youtube
videos on stepper motor replacement in GM clusters that show how to do it.
A little desolder-resolder action and you're good for a lot less than an OBDII Dash display.
They also have complete kits with LEDs for the backlighting, soldering iron, solder sucker, etc. for under $40
Since you can solder, you can probably handle it.
Jay
The problem is the stepper motors go bad. You can pick them up on ebay. There's a few Youtube
videos on stepper motor replacement in GM clusters that show how to do it.
A little desolder-resolder action and you're good for a lot less than an OBDII Dash display.
They also have complete kits with LEDs for the backlighting, soldering iron, solder sucker, etc. for under $40
Since you can solder, you can probably handle it.
Jay
10-21-2018, 05:30 PM
#85
Yep, that's the 7 gauge cluster. My '03 2wd 2500HD donor had the 7 gauge originally, but the stepper motors went bad and they swapped in a 74k mile 6 gauge cluster but gave me the original, too. I plan to do new stepper motors and LED lighting when I get that far.
My driver's seat looked a lot like your driver's seat. lol...my donor had something over 230k on it, but no one is sure, since the odometer hadn't worked for a while when the previous owner had it.
Jay
My driver's seat looked a lot like your driver's seat. lol...my donor had something over 230k on it, but no one is sure, since the odometer hadn't worked for a while when the previous owner had it.
Jay
10-23-2018, 06:57 AM
#86
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
I have an 03 Silverado and 6 gauge cluster kept just shutting off entirely. I sent it to a place I found on eBay that rebuilds the clusters and puts in new LEDs and I want to say it was right around $220 bucks. They also gave me the option to upgrade to the Denali cluster with a different face, pointers, and added a trans temp gauge. I dropped it into my truck and it works perfectly.
10-23-2018, 01:52 PM
#87
Thanks! Does the 241 have a provision for cable driven spedometer? If not, it's a deal breaker. I've trumpeted the merits of the 80e in the past.
I even have one in my S10. Let's be perfectly honest though. This motor is going to be naturally aspirated with a mild cam. The truck might go
off road at some point in the future, but it'll never be a hardcore wheeler. Max tire size will be 31" and the heviest thig it will ever tow is a
car dolly. The 700r4 that's in there now was recently rebuilt, but before that it had over 200k on it. I'm sure the 60e will be fine. When it
gives up the ghost, I'll rebuild it. I appreciate the feedback!
I even have one in my S10. Let's be perfectly honest though. This motor is going to be naturally aspirated with a mild cam. The truck might go
off road at some point in the future, but it'll never be a hardcore wheeler. Max tire size will be 31" and the heviest thig it will ever tow is a
car dolly. The 700r4 that's in there now was recently rebuilt, but before that it had over 200k on it. I'm sure the 60e will be fine. When it
gives up the ghost, I'll rebuild it. I appreciate the feedback!
11-11-2018, 10:41 PM
#88
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Okay... Making slow but solid progress on the '06. Both heads have been removed, cleaned, replaced expansion plugs and reinstalled. Couple more weeks and I'll be back on the K10...
This is like automotive "Inception." I'm three projects deep right now...
This is like automotive "Inception." I'm three projects deep right now...
12-02-2018, 02:52 PM
#90
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Not a thing on the K10. Seeing light at the end of the tunnel on the '06 though. Took it to emissions testing yesterday and it passed. First long(ish) drive I've taken it on, so some new issued popped up. Nothing major though. I have a coolant leak at the throttle body crossover, and a knock sensor code (P0327). Just going to bypass the throttle body with a 1/4" barb. Admittedly, I don't know the exact reason they plumb coolant through the throttle body, but I assume it has something to do with cold weather. We don't see much of that here, so I'm hoping it will be okay. If not, I'll do something different. As for the knock sensor code; just going to throw new sensors and a harness in it.
Money being tight this time of year, I probably won't do anything with the K10 until after the new year. That's fine with me though. It can sit indefinitely as long as it's in one piece. I was days away from pulling it apart when I bought the '06. That timing worked out well.
Money being tight this time of year, I probably won't do anything with the K10 until after the new year. That's fine with me though. It can sit indefinitely as long as it's in one piece. I was days away from pulling it apart when I bought the '06. That timing worked out well.
12-02-2018, 04:27 PM
#91
TECH Senior Member
No problem bypassing the TB coolant passage. It's mainly for de-icing in VERY cold climates.
12-02-2018, 07:27 PM
#93
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Ugh. You had to bring that up... LOL I bought and installed the repair kit. Didn't go well. When I started I had 2 gauges that worked. When I was done, none of them worked. Apparently soldering electronic components is NOT in my wheelhouse. Going to sent it off to get repaired. That's okay with me though. I can say I tried. It bothers me when people don't even try.
12-08-2018, 09:32 PM
#94
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Well the '06 is almost complete. It passed emissions and I registered it the other day. Just needs insurance to be road legal.
Here's a rundown of the issues it had: 1.) One of the wires on the level sensor was broke. $22 for a new level sensor. A new pump module is pretty expensive and the bed came off pretty easy. I'm rolling the dice on running the old pump.
2.) As shown, both heads pulled and refurbished. All new gaskets in the top end.
3.) The starter bendix was not fully disengaging causing the starter gear to drag on the flexplate. Different starter fixed the issue.
4.) New U-joint and strap kit.
5.) Sent the cluster out for repair. Surprisingly cheap. $64 for 7 new stepper motors and all the bulbs to be replaced.
Back on the K10 soon. I have a buddy with a blown up NP208c T-case that I plan to use for VSS mock up. I want to see if I can make something work on a practice piece before I tear the truck apart. Once I get that figured out, it's full steam ahead.
Here's a rundown of the issues it had:
1.) Has a code for a fuel level sensor causing a CEL. Thinking I'll just put a whole new pump module in due to the miles. Assuming that's the cause of the code. Need to research.
2.) It pours water out the back of the right head just as quick as you dump it in the reservoir. I can reach my hand back there and feel a trail of goo coming from the plug location. Have to pull the head to fix. (?)
3.) There's something rattling underneath. Sounds like flexplate. Could be a heat shield.
4.) The U-joint is doinked. It maybe kind of entered the space that the spinning pinion yoke occupied. Needs a 1410 U-joint, 1 strap and a couple bolts.
5.) Some of the gauges don't work. I guess that's pretty common in the GMT800 clusters. Probably just get one of those cheap OBDII dash display things. I'm not about paying to have the cluster rebuilt.
2.) It pours water out the back of the right head just as quick as you dump it in the reservoir. I can reach my hand back there and feel a trail of goo coming from the plug location. Have to pull the head to fix. (?)
3.) There's something rattling underneath. Sounds like flexplate. Could be a heat shield.
4.) The U-joint is doinked. It maybe kind of entered the space that the spinning pinion yoke occupied. Needs a 1410 U-joint, 1 strap and a couple bolts.
5.) Some of the gauges don't work. I guess that's pretty common in the GMT800 clusters. Probably just get one of those cheap OBDII dash display things. I'm not about paying to have the cluster rebuilt.
2.) As shown, both heads pulled and refurbished. All new gaskets in the top end.
3.) The starter bendix was not fully disengaging causing the starter gear to drag on the flexplate. Different starter fixed the issue.
4.) New U-joint and strap kit.
5.) Sent the cluster out for repair. Surprisingly cheap. $64 for 7 new stepper motors and all the bulbs to be replaced.
Back on the K10 soon. I have a buddy with a blown up NP208c T-case that I plan to use for VSS mock up. I want to see if I can make something work on a practice piece before I tear the truck apart. Once I get that figured out, it's full steam ahead.
12-24-2018, 08:59 AM
#95
On The Tree
Thread Starter
The '06 is complete. I now have a running, driving 2wd 3/4 ton long bed truck for a grand total of $1577.
My main focus is back on the K10. I should have more parts rolling in as my budget allows. More frequent updates coming soon.
My main focus is back on the K10. I should have more parts rolling in as my budget allows. More frequent updates coming soon.
03-25-2019, 02:05 PM
#96
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Well I suppose it's time for an update. Now that the weather is warming up I can do some outside work. I also wanted to wait till I had a layer of landscape rock down before I started. Anything to separate me from those little goat head prickers. One of those in the back will wreck your day! Laying on a harbor freight moving blanket makes it very tolerable.
Skid plate is off, T-case is drained and driveshaft is out. Up next will be pulling the T-case, draining the trans and pulling that. I probably won't post as frequently as I usually do. This swap might take longer than it should/could. Turns out, my middle kid has really taken a liking to turning a wrench. I want to get him involved as much as possible. Maybe this will keep him out of trouble!
That's the 4th generation to work on this truck. I'm happy.
Skid plate is off, T-case is drained and driveshaft is out. Up next will be pulling the T-case, draining the trans and pulling that. I probably won't post as frequently as I usually do. This swap might take longer than it should/could. Turns out, my middle kid has really taken a liking to turning a wrench. I want to get him involved as much as possible. Maybe this will keep him out of trouble!
That's the 4th generation to work on this truck. I'm happy.
04-03-2019, 07:57 PM
#99
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I'm trying. Seems like the only thing that'll tear him away is to go play with the neighbor kid that's his age.
When I was in high school I worked at a little mom and pop hardware store. Most of my friends were making more money flipping burgers, but I didn't mind. I saw the big picture. The amount of money I have saved by doing things myself with the knowledge I gained there is way more than the difference in pay.
T-case is out and all cleaned up. 4L60e adapter is mounted. Some quick ciphering with a tape measure tells me I'll have 2" of spline engagement and 1/2" of dead space before the shaft bottoms out. All good there! The 60e adapter is a lot shorter than the 700r4, so I'll have to build some spacers. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Next up is the trans...
T-case is out and all cleaned up. 4L60e adapter is mounted. Some quick ciphering with a tape measure tells me I'll have 2" of spline engagement and 1/2" of dead space before the shaft bottoms out. All good there! The 60e adapter is a lot shorter than the 700r4, so I'll have to build some spacers. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Next up is the trans...
04-06-2019, 08:23 PM
#100
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Trans is down, but technically not out. I'll drag it out tomorrow, probably. I almost feel bad for not using the 700r4 considering it only has like 20k miles on it, and the fluid looks great. However, I want that full computer control of the 60e. Should be able to make a couple dollars of the 700r4. At least enough to buy the rebuild and shift kit for when the 60e dies.
FWIW, an ATV jack makes a really nice tranny jack in a pinch.
FWIW, an ATV jack makes a really nice tranny jack in a pinch.