swapping out 4.8 ro 6.0. Do I need a spacer plate? 2002 4l60e.
10-08-2018, 12:17 PM
#1
swapping out 4.8 ro 6.0. Do I need a spacer plate? 2002 4l60e. I have a 2002 Silverado with 4.8 and 4l60e. Stock truck. I'm installing a 6.0 soon. I wish I had a 4l80e to go with it but I don't. So the 4l60e is going to get used until I find something better. I have the flexplate that came with the 6.0 which is dished, with 3 torque converter bolt holes. Not sure if this is correct for 6.0 to 4l80e or not. When searching out this answer I continually get info on how to mate a Gen 3 motor to an early year trans. th350, th400, 700r4, etc.. I'm hoping by having both flat and dished flex plates I should be able to get it installed with no problems, but if I need a spacer I will get one. Thanks for the help.
10-08-2018, 12:24 PM
#2
TECH Senior Member
You will know as soon as you see the back of both engines. If one crank sticks out a bit further than the other a spacer WILL be needed.
10-09-2018, 02:58 AM
#4
On The Tree
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As far as I'm aware 4l80e have 6 bolt converters and only the iron headed 6.0 came with long crank or the manual 4.8 . I got a 6.0/4l80e out of 2003 HD came with a flat flex plate and a spacer . So seems like you have the correct flexplate for a 4l60e .
10-09-2018, 07:15 AM
#5
TECH Regular
I have a 2002 Silverado with 4.8 and 4l60e. Stock truck. I'm installing a 6.0 soon. I wish I had a 4l80e to go with it but I don't. So the 4l60e is going to get used until I find something better. I have the flexplate that came with the 6.0 which is dished, with 3 torque converter bolt holes. Not sure if this is correct for 6.0 to 4l80e or not. When searching out this answer I continually get info on how to mate a Gen 3 motor to an early year trans. th350, th400, 700r4, etc.. I'm hoping by having both flat and dished flex plates I should be able to get it installed with no problems, but if I need a spacer I will get one. Thanks for the help.
10-15-2018, 01:07 PM
#6
6.0 swap. Just got it installed and running. Trans fit like it should. No problems. Now back to tuning. I’m guessing the 6.0 was around 2002. It wasn’t an iron head and definitely a gen 3. I did drive down the block and back to check for leaks or anything I might of missed. So far it’s looking good. The 4l60e might not like it though from here on out. I’ll just have to take it easy which is going to be hard considering I’ve got a turbo on it. I
10-15-2018, 01:13 PM
#7
TECH Senior Member
Just got it installed and running. Trans fit like it should. No problems. Now back to tuning. I’m guessing the 6.0 was around 2002. It wasn’t an iron head and definitely a gen 3. I did drive down the block and back to check for leaks or anything I might of missed. So far it’s looking good. The 4l60e might not like it though from here on out. I’ll just have to take it easy which is going to be hard considering I’ve got a turbo on it. I
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10-15-2018, 01:40 PM
#8
TECH Regular
Just got it installed and running. Trans fit like it should. No problems. Now back to tuning. I’m guessing the 6.0 was around 2002. It wasn’t an iron head and definitely a gen 3. I did drive down the block and back to check for leaks or anything I might of missed. So far it’s looking good. The 4l60e might not like it though from here on out. I’ll just have to take it easy which is going to be hard considering I’ve got a turbo on it. I
10-15-2018, 02:21 PM
#9
I agree with everything said. Been looking for months now. I’m around Wichita ks and seems everyone that has one used wants to much. I’ve considered a TH400 but don’t like how they don’t have lockup or 4 gears. I guess I’m hoping to find a good used for 500 max. Not sure if that is to low for a used one or not. Just seems right to me. If I find one, would I need to do anything as of up grades or can they handle quite a bit the way they are? I don’t think I need a higher stall cause it already feels pretty torquey compared to the 4.8, and I’m not drag racing the truck. For some reason I feel like I’ll have 1000 to 1500 tied up in the trans.
10-15-2018, 02:35 PM
#10
TECH Senior Member
If you find one in good shape you might put a shift kit in it.
10-15-2018, 02:53 PM
#11
TECH Regular
I agree with everything said. Been looking for months now. I’m around Wichita ks and seems everyone that has one used wants to much. I’ve considered a TH400 but don’t like how they don’t have lockup or 4 gears. I guess I’m hoping to find a good used for 500 max. Not sure if that is to low for a used one or not. Just seems right to me. If I find one, would I need to do anything as of up grades or can they handle quite a bit the way they are? I don’t think I need a higher stall cause it already feels pretty torquey compared to the 4.8, and I’m not drag racing the truck. For some reason I feel like I’ll have 1000 to 1500 tied up in the trans.
10-15-2018, 06:39 PM
#12
Well I had a big scare while driving the truck. I’ll go ahead and say I could have avoided it. Engine started a knocking noise and had me scrambling for the cause. My first thought was a rod but concluded it was a lifter. I wish I had put new ones in but the originals looked good. No wearing, rollers looked good. So after letting it sit for an hour I went back out and started the truck, and at first it was knocking but slowly went away to the normal valve train noise. So now I’m hoping I can fix the lifter without completely pulling the top half of motor back apart. I’ve heard of pouring in atf in the oil and let it run for 5 or 10 minutes then swap back to oil. I’ve heard of mechanic shops doing this but have never done it myself. I’m glad it’s not a rod but still upsetting that it’s a lifter which I should of just replaced in the first place.
10-16-2018, 05:39 AM
#13
TECH Regular
Well I had a big scare while driving the truck. I’ll go ahead and say I could have avoided it. Engine started a knocking noise and had me scrambling for the cause. My first thought was a rod but concluded it was a lifter. I wish I had put new ones in but the originals looked good. No wearing, rollers looked good. So after letting it sit for an hour I went back out and started the truck, and at first it was knocking but slowly went away to the normal valve train noise. So now I’m hoping I can fix the lifter without completely pulling the top half of motor back apart. I’ve heard of pouring in atf in the oil and let it run for 5 or 10 minutes then swap back to oil. I’ve heard of mechanic shops doing this but have never done it myself. I’m glad it’s not a rod but still upsetting that it’s a lifter which I should of just replaced in the first place.
