Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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6.0 6l90 swap crank but no start

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Old 12-14-2018, 09:45 PM
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If anyone does an e78 swap. Make sure the starter enable relay control from the ecm is GROUNDED or all starter diagnostics turned off in the tune. I deleted this wire thinking I didnt need it due to the ecm not tripping the relay and my factory crank wire tripping the relay. The e78 doesnt recognize this at all and will not pulse the injectors. Also if you're putting a decent size cam in it, it will take a WHILE for the ecm to learn everything with the cam. I had to start it about 35 times before it learned everything with the new cam. It runs good now, the e78 idle sure sucks but my tuner did say it has poor idle control. Hopefully I can drive it tomorrow afternoon. The cam ls almost too big for the 6l90 converter. I think once I get an adjusted tune it will be fine.
thanks for all the help yall!
Old 12-14-2018, 10:01 PM
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Well at least you gotter RUNNING! Now that it is, you should be able to tune out all the hiccups!
Old 12-14-2018, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Well at least you gotter RUNNING! Now that it is, you should be able to tune out all the hiccups!
yup. Man it sounds alot more aggressive than I expected.
Old 12-16-2018, 02:29 AM
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Took it for a spin and babied it to the gas station. Left the gas station and cracked the throttle just to downshift and it had a nice backfire and basically went into a rough limp mode until I stopped and turned it off and back one. Then I get to the red light and the cam is surging so hard the brakes cant really hold it. Sometimes it sits fine with no issues and sometimes it surges like that. Then again another major backfire and turn it off and back on. It shows my spark is about 40 degrees advanced at all times. Bunch of opportunities to improve the tune.
Old 12-16-2018, 10:33 AM
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Yeah, it's "running", but there is room for improvement, huh? "Opportunities to improve the tune"; I like your attitude! I think once you get it all dialed in it'll be a runner!
Old 12-16-2018, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Yeah, it's "running", but there is room for improvement, huh? "Opportunities to improve the tune"; I like your attitude! I think once you get it all dialed in it'll be a runner!
I hope so! Just babying it around it felt like i was driving my old .40 over 350 with vortec heads and flat top pistons normally.
Old 12-17-2018, 09:38 PM
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My tuner looked at the data logs and it said I was running incredibly lean. So I went to check the pressure (I dont have a Schrader valve on the rail). I checked pressure right after the selector valve in the middle of the truck for the 2 tanks. It wasnt a consistent reading and kept bouncing once running. But it was between 80 and 90 psi. So I took off the rail and cleaned everything out and tested all injectors. Everything is good. Turn the switch on and the psi goes up to 40 then slowly bleeds off. Fire it up and back between 80-90 psi. Does something sound wrong with my fuel system? Minus the high psi part?
Old 02-03-2019, 01:09 PM
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IN hp tuners
Under System General tab. Vehicle Starter Diag. Without this disabled or a working starter diag connection and ground it will not fire.
I also turned off Flex Fuel diag under fuel system. I have flex engine.

As to your fuel question. We had a nice corvette fuel pressure regulator in and it it read 58 psi to the rail which matched the tune.
It started to fail and put 78 psi to the rail and it really ate thru fuel and ran crappy. We change the tune to 78 psi until we could get the regulator changed. ran fine until we change it again and forgot to reset the tune. This time lean of course. once its all in and matching it runs like a top. Fuel pressure plays a big role in all the computer calculations. you have to remember the gm engineers were trying to scrape every last drop for fuel efficiency.
Old 02-03-2019, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by hcb3200
IN hp tuners
Under System General tab. Vehicle Starter Diag. Without this disabled or a working starter diag connection and ground it will not fire.
I also turned off Flex Fuel diag under fuel system. I have flex engine.

As to your fuel question. We had a nice corvette fuel pressure regulator in and it it read 58 psi to the rail which matched the tune.
It started to fail and put 78 psi to the rail and it really ate thru fuel and ran crappy. We change the tune to 78 psi until we could get the regulator changed. ran fine until we change it again and forgot to reset the tune. This time lean of course. once its all in and matching it runs like a top. Fuel pressure plays a big role in all the computer calculations. you have to remember the gm engineers were trying to scrape every last drop for fuel efficiency.
I had to install an adjustable regulator but the fuel system is fine now. It actually runs decent. But the problem I'm having now is due to the increased air intake tube diameter it's running lean and the calibration for the increased tube size is seeming to be a hassle. It runs fine and maybe just a hair rich if I put a 3" MAF reducer at the maf sensor. But wont the 3" reducer, even if its angled for a smooth flow, hurt my power because it's a restriction?

it's a 4" tube. 8 wire maf sensor
Old 02-03-2019, 01:28 PM
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Depends. if you are trying to get every ounce of horse power sure.
If you just want it running good and don't want to fool with all the tune changes due to intake change then put in the reducer.
start with the reducer and get your tune way you want it for what I call basic tune running nice and working well.
Then start with changes. Some tune guys may already have your 4" all programmed up.
I just cut off all the bs around my air intake but left the maf sensor and tube it was attached stock and put in inline with the new stuff. cutting down as many variables as possible until it was running good. Once we get the other stuff done like power brakes and steering. Having a mountain of HP won't matter. so we haven't done much on the tune side.
Old 02-03-2019, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hcb3200
Depends. if you are trying to get every ounce of horse power sure.
If you just want it running good and don't want to fool with all the tune changes due to intake change then put in the reducer.
start with the reducer and get your tune way you want it for what I call basic tune running nice and working well.
Then start with changes. Some tune guys may already have your 4" all programmed up.
I just cut off all the bs around my air intake but left the maf sensor and tube it was attached stock and put in inline with the new stuff. cutting down as many variables as possible until it was running good. Once we get the other stuff done like power brakes and steering. Having a mountain of HP won't matter. so we haven't done much on the tune side.
Yeah you're right. Just have a good running tune with the small reducer then change it later. The 16-18 silverado and Sierras also utilized an e78 ecm and 8 wire maf. Since mine came out of a van the reducer may be smaller than theirs. I dont know. But anyways, how much hp would you guess I'd be down using that small of a reducer? Maybe 10?
Old 02-03-2019, 01:35 PM
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The dyno will be the only teller of that tale.
Old 02-03-2019, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by hcb3200
The dyno will be the only teller of that tale.
that is true. I still gotta upgrade the driveshaft before a dyno pull. At least upgrade the u joints on it.
Old 02-07-2019, 08:46 AM
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This is some great info for me. I have a l96/6l90e I'm dropping into a 68' mustang. I will need this thread for when I got to tune/start it.

Thanks
Old 02-07-2019, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by LS_then_Ideal
This is some great info for me. I have a l96/6l90e I'm dropping into a 68' mustang. I will need this thread for when I got to tune/start it.

Thanks
Glad to hear! If you're reworking the factory harness and arent sure about a specific wire to be removed or not let me know and I'll take a look at what I done.
Old 03-30-2022, 01:33 AM
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Default Grounding starter enable wire ?

So when you say u grounded the starter enable wire do u mean you ran it straight to ground( like the frame)? Or that you grounded it threw a relay?
Old 03-30-2022, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by alanwulf2
So when you say u grounded the starter enable wire do u mean you ran it straight to ground( like the frame)? Or that you grounded it threw a relay?
I grounded it to the front core support. But any ground location should work for it.
Old 03-30-2022, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by alanwulf2
So when you say u grounded the starter enable wire do u mean you ran it straight to ground( like the frame)? Or that you grounded it threw a relay?
From looking at the pinout diagram and what I can remember. It was the X1 ecm connector, pin #27 yellow/black wire.




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