LS Swap into a 63 Impala
#1
LS Swap into a 63 Impala
Hey Everyone I'm new to the site but I'm looking for what you all might think and maybe recommendations. I have a 63 Impala and I have decided to swap an LS motor for several reasons. I have done some research and decided to go with a 6.0 LS2 with a 4L60. But I am now stuck on weather I should go with an LS2 aluminum from a Vette or a 6.0 LQ9 6.0 truck motor. Budget wise I know the truck engine is where its at. But speaking to friends and the guy who would help install and do most work for me he is now recommending for the price its better to go with a truck engine as it would be taken apart and rebuilt for the about the same price I was about to buy an LS2 Vette for $4250 without a transmission. He mentioned I could get a new engine rebuilt of course with the trans for $4500. As I know I could get more horsepower I'm confused if its better to get a rebuilt motor than a salvage junkyard engine that has the possibility of knocking or something happening in the long run. If you all could provide some thought and maybe suggestions I would greatly appreciate it!!! Thanks
#2
TECH Senior Member
Since where the engine is going, weight is not really a consideration (it will still be lighter than a SBC), the LQ9 is the way to go, as there are far more to pick from, and as said, the price is right. The truck intake manifold will probably even fit under the '63 hood, and it's a good runner! One think to consider, if the engine came out of a wrecked truck, it didn't get there because the engine is bad.
#4
TECH Fanatic
As mentioned, a truck intake is a tall intake. But most truck oil pans also hang low - not sure about an LQ9 oil pan. These can be too low to safely drive over usually rough city streets without risking the loss of every drop of oil in your LQ9 engine. I had to ditch my stock LM7 truck oil pan and buy the Holley 302-2 oil pan to make it work in a 70 El Camino.
Rick
Rick
#5
TECH Senior Member
The truck intake has been seen fitting under the hoods of Chevelles and Novas, and I THINK Gen I Camaros. I would think it would fit under a '63 hood, but don't know for sure. And yeah, the pan will have to be switched for something shallower. ALL this should still be way cheaper than an LS1/LS6/LS2.
#6
oh yeah the f body oil pan is necessary for an LS conversion. The intake will also have to changed as well to accommodate the low clearance. I'm just undecided and want to get feed back if a salvage LS2 from a junk yard with low mileage is a better option than a rebuilt truck motor?
I'm also wondering if I went with an LS2 vette engine what other gaskets and part should be changed besides oil pan and gasket to make that engine more secure and reliable for future purposes.
I'm also wondering if I went with an LS2 vette engine what other gaskets and part should be changed besides oil pan and gasket to make that engine more secure and reliable for future purposes.
#7
TECH Senior Member
If you want to get a little more life from an engine, and especially if you change the cam, change-
1) Oil pump- OEM or Melling high pressure; do NOT use a high volume pump
2) Lifters- LS7 which is current GM replacement
3) Timing chain- LS2 which is also current GM replacement
4) Pushrods- Depending on the cam, at least heavier wall, to larger diameter (3/8")
5) Oil passage barbell- SacCity billet barbell; OEM is loose-fitting plastic, this one fits tighter and ensures more thorough filtration.
6) Lifter trays- OEM replacements; they are durable plastic, but after lots of miles/time, good insurance to replace them
1) Oil pump- OEM or Melling high pressure; do NOT use a high volume pump
2) Lifters- LS7 which is current GM replacement
3) Timing chain- LS2 which is also current GM replacement
4) Pushrods- Depending on the cam, at least heavier wall, to larger diameter (3/8")
5) Oil passage barbell- SacCity billet barbell; OEM is loose-fitting plastic, this one fits tighter and ensures more thorough filtration.
6) Lifter trays- OEM replacements; they are durable plastic, but after lots of miles/time, good insurance to replace them
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#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Something to think about is how often you drive the vehicle. Unless it's your daily you won't put many miles on it. I drive mine quite a bit to car shows all over town, and put 4k on it in 10 days this summer, but still haven't even hit 15k in the last 6 years. So a 60-100k wrecking yard motor could easily last you 20 years or more in a classic car.
#9
That is true mine will be a weekend driver and be driven to shows around the area as well. Hows your LS1 holding up??? What did you get it for on ebay??? That's where I have found a few LS2s im interested on as well.
#11
TECH Fanatic
I paid $800 for a 1999 GMC Sierra LM7 5.3 liter with 150,000-ish miles. It came with its 4L60E transmission and powertrain control module for another $400. The engine ran well when parked with no codes, no exhaust smoke, heads rebuilt 3000 miles prior and 150-170 PSI compression on all cylinders. With the spark plugs removed and a good battery, the engine blew almost 40 PSI for an oil pressure vigorously cranking on an external gauge which is excellent for an engine that well used.
This was a pulled engine at a local shop I was familiar with. Not an Ebay or Internet purchase. You could also look at your local junk yards and get an engine out of a wrecked vehicle rather than an old ride that was worn out. They will likely even pull it for you for a fee. If you pull it yourself around here, they are cheap - $200, I think. I'd suggest this rather than the purchase of a distant engine of unknown pedigree.
Rick
This was a pulled engine at a local shop I was familiar with. Not an Ebay or Internet purchase. You could also look at your local junk yards and get an engine out of a wrecked vehicle rather than an old ride that was worn out. They will likely even pull it for you for a fee. If you pull it yourself around here, they are cheap - $200, I think. I'd suggest this rather than the purchase of a distant engine of unknown pedigree.
Rick