Battery, starter, solenoid wiring issue
12-18-2018, 08:27 PM
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Battery, starter, solenoid wiring issue Let me preface this by saying this is the first car I've wired. Complete newb.
1993 Mustang with LQ4 (6.0L)
Battery negative to starter (black 0 gauge)
Battery positive to alternator (blue 4 gauge)
Starter to solenoid (blue 4 gauge)
Starter to solenoid (red 8 gauge)
Ground strap drivers side head to firewall
Fuel pumps prime but I can't get it to turn over. Literally nothing happens (no sound or anything else) when I try to crank it.
Small note: When I was connecting the wires to the solenoid I touched the other post by accident with the wrench and it cranked.
1993 Mustang with LQ4 (6.0L)
Battery negative to starter (black 0 gauge)
Battery positive to alternator (blue 4 gauge)
Starter to solenoid (blue 4 gauge)
Starter to solenoid (red 8 gauge)
Ground strap drivers side head to firewall
Fuel pumps prime but I can't get it to turn over. Literally nothing happens (no sound or anything else) when I try to crank it.
Small note: When I was connecting the wires to the solenoid I touched the other post by accident with the wrench and it cranked.
12-18-2018, 09:49 PM
#3
I think you are making this harder than it needs to be, The starter needs a constant 12v on the large post and a switched 12v going to the small solenoid post. When the small post see's +12v then it engages the starter.
The alternator output can be ran to the same large post on the starter or directly to the + post on the battery, It's only function is to get the output voltage from the alternator to the battery to keep it charged and supply power to the rest of the vehicle.
The alternator output can be ran to the same large post on the starter or directly to the + post on the battery, It's only function is to get the output voltage from the alternator to the battery to keep it charged and supply power to the rest of the vehicle.
12-19-2018, 01:30 AM
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I have a red 0 gauge from the battery to the starter. Then a 4 gauge from the starter to the battery.
That might be the issue. I need to move the red 0 gauge to the solenoid instead.
I'll give it a shot and report back.
That might be the issue. I need to move the red 0 gauge to the solenoid instead.
I'll give it a shot and report back.
12-19-2018, 09:27 AM
#5
If you get nothing when the key is turned to "start" but were able to short the solenoid and crank then your problem is in the start circuit. Could it be the neutral safety switch is out of adjustment (if you have one). When you go to the start position is the wire getting voltage to activate the solenoid?
12-22-2018, 09:53 AM
#7
You’ve definitely complicated this.
you just need a 4ga wire from battery + to the starter big lug.
ign 12v in run and start position to the starter solenoid small terminal.
you don’t even have to use the starter solenoid on the mustangs fender.
4ga wire from starter big lug straight to the alternator
Theres a ground spot for a bolt on the same side of the block as the starter that you can use for your ground. It’s used by factory.
it sounds like you’ve used the wrong wire to control the starter solenoid. I bet it loses 12v once you turn it to start.
ive got an 87 mustang I’ve done all this to and can get you which wires to use to make it run and start from the ignition switch. http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...itchWiring.gif
you just need a 4ga wire from battery + to the starter big lug.
ign 12v in run and start position to the starter solenoid small terminal.
you don’t even have to use the starter solenoid on the mustangs fender.
4ga wire from starter big lug straight to the alternator
Theres a ground spot for a bolt on the same side of the block as the starter that you can use for your ground. It’s used by factory.
it sounds like you’ve used the wrong wire to control the starter solenoid. I bet it loses 12v once you turn it to start.
ive got an 87 mustang I’ve done all this to and can get you which wires to use to make it run and start from the ignition switch. http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...itchWiring.gif
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12-22-2018, 10:08 AM
#8
12-22-2018, 12:51 PM
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Andrew
12-22-2018, 01:33 PM
#10
Ahhh, so did you have to energize both the solenoid and the starter small lugs at the same time?
12-22-2018, 02:21 PM
#11
“BATTERY Neg to starter”????? I think you’re about to burn the car down.
My car used to be 5.0L powered with the ugly fender mounted solenoid. Opinions are like - well, you know. Here’s mine.
Battery ground with a big, short cable to a sound CHASSIS ground. Ground the block to the chassis with a big, short ground. Ground one of the heads to the chassis. Your 8 gauge from battery hot to alternator. Your 0 gauge from battery hot to the big lug on the starter. Your ignition switch hot “start” to the little lug on the starter, or through a small relay to the little lug on the starter. Remove the big fender mounted relay and throw it as far as you can.
My car used to be 5.0L powered with the ugly fender mounted solenoid. Opinions are like - well, you know. Here’s mine.
Battery ground with a big, short cable to a sound CHASSIS ground. Ground the block to the chassis with a big, short ground. Ground one of the heads to the chassis. Your 8 gauge from battery hot to alternator. Your 0 gauge from battery hot to the big lug on the starter. Your ignition switch hot “start” to the little lug on the starter, or through a small relay to the little lug on the starter. Remove the big fender mounted relay and throw it as far as you can.
12-22-2018, 02:51 PM
#12
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Andrew
12-24-2018, 08:15 AM
#19
You are using two solenoids. Can't tell from the pictures but make sure you are energizing the one on the fender. The same wire you are hooking to the S terminal on the block starter needs to go to the small lug on the external solenoid.
So what happens is the small S wire powers both solenoids causing them to close and short out the big lugs. Should be a simple matter to trace this with a test light.
If for some reason you are getting power to the big lug on the starter solenoid and the car still isn't starting, than the starter solenoid might be bad. When you energize it it pushes a copper disk across the two big lugs passing power to the starter. That is why jumpering out the two lugs will start the car. I've take solenoids apart and cleaned up the contacts before.
Man, you spent some money on oversized wires.
So what happens is the small S wire powers both solenoids causing them to close and short out the big lugs. Should be a simple matter to trace this with a test light.
If for some reason you are getting power to the big lug on the starter solenoid and the car still isn't starting, than the starter solenoid might be bad. When you energize it it pushes a copper disk across the two big lugs passing power to the starter. That is why jumpering out the two lugs will start the car. I've take solenoids apart and cleaned up the contacts before.
Man, you spent some money on oversized wires.
01-18-2019, 08:10 AM
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Turns out it was a matter if swapping the manual out for an auto required connecting a white w/ pink stripe wire with a red w/ blue stripe wire.
Finally cranked. Going to load a new tune tonight and hopefully get it running this weekend. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks gents!!
Finally cranked. Going to load a new tune tonight and hopefully get it running this weekend. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks gents!!