foppert

Hi all, (hopefully i drop this in the right spot on the forum, be nice its my first post here.)

I've been reading up here exploring the idea to replace the 350 in my 70 nova 5 speed. The swap should be pretty straight forward as I've been reading here a decent amount, but i'd like some advice on where people have had good luck finding their engines. I feel i keep reading that people say "lm7's go for $200 bucks around here..." and have seen no evidence of where that is ever possible.

Local junkyard? Car Part.com? U pull it yard? Ebay? Craigslist?

If you wouldn't mind posting where you are located, who you bought the engine from, how much it cost you, which model of engine it is (ls3, lr4, lq6, etc), and condition/mileage/completeness (long block? long block+intake? full drop out with ecm and harness? etc)

Don't mean to pry but hopefully this can help make some type of list that can help perspective folk like me.
Thanks guys.

G Atsma

Where are you located? Yeah $200 is lowballing it! lol Which engine do you have in mind for the build? Obviously truck engines will be least expensive as there are far more of them than Camaro, GTO, CTS-V, or Vette engines. Nice thing is if you want an aluminum block there are a lot more of them now than 10 years ago. When you get a salvage engine, make sure ALL electrical stuff is with it. ECM, sensors, harnesses, throttle pedal, etc.

foppert

Thanks for the quick response. I am in bay area California, and a truck engine is perfect for what i'm looking for. I might start another thread about my specific thoughts to my perspective build. But hopefully we can make a list that can help people in other areas too.

For reference it seems like as of now the minimum going rate of an lm7 on ebay is in the ballpark of $800-900 for one with accessories... Shipping seems iffy as most want a business address.
Car part search is about $900, don't know how many accessories ill get with it.
Craigslist seems to be even higher.

Do most of you guys get a whole donor vehicle? or just the engine and related parts?

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

I prefer the wrecking yards over craigslist. With most wrecking yards you at least get a warranty, but they warranty period is pretty short so you need to get it in and fired up or start it on an engine stand to verify it's all good. Craigslist has some good deals but also some losers selling junk without notifying you. I've had a couple friends get ripped off on T56's on craigslist. Another yard you can try that is nationwide is LKQ.

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

car-part.com is good to source from smaller, non schnitzer steel owned yards

there used to be a ton of u-pull yards in richmond, you could even find guys in the parking lot to pull stuff for you. they just chilled there all day, used their own tools etc..plus the tamales lady would come by at noon


ebay is gonna be shooting for max market price, same as LKQ


craigslist is the trailerpark of the internet. you're really only gonna find stuff listed by old heads who think ls truck motors are rare.

I've had much better luck on FB marketplace and offer up.

fst100

iTrader: (5)

^CL is hit or miss. I was able to get a pair of 799 heads (one head had some nicks but nothing a machine shop was able to resurface) for $75.

kott0n

I have been trying to figure out the best way to get all that's needed for a swap as cheap as possible as well. I decided to buy a wreck from an auction. Strip engine, trans, harness, ecu, downpipes with 02 sensor, radiator, oil/trans coolers, fuel tank/lines/pump, fans, fuses boxes, as much extra wiring as I can pull.

From what I can tell I should be able to source a wrecked truck for about $650, dismantle and sell back to one of those dead vehicle pick up services for $200. I use the term wrecked lightly as I'm only looking at vehicles that would likely drive away from the auction site. Exmple: One truck had a huge dent in the bed, doesn't affect driving. Another had the rear towbar, back of the frame bent, pushed down from a rear end, totally driveable. Another had a mangled front fender but the headlight hadn't even broke.

I haven't pulled the trigger yet but this is my plan.

JoeNova

I typically buy the a runner, part it out and end up with a free engine.

NCDEERE

iTrader: (1)

I bought a Denali that had some serious rust issues and was just plain ugly but ran and drove great. You can be sure that you will get everything you need in a package and by the time you sell some parts and the hulk for scrap you actually come out pretty good.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

If you've got space and time, buying a whole vehicle is probably the best economic choice. You also get a lot of stuff you don't consider you might want up front.
But I bought a couple takeouts off ebay from reputable sellers (good reviews, warrantee, etc.) The were asking a pretty high price and I waited for the auction to expire. Then contacted the seller directly and made a lowball offer, they took it.

cguth

iTrader: (3)

I just bought a suburban for my swap, 1200 for the complete running driving vehicle. Made the most sense to me.

LS1 TJ

I've had good luck with car-part. I like to get the pull out vin number to verify mileage and sometimes service records. Any salvage engine is a bit of a crap shoot. I typically get the engine home. Pull the heads and pan to see what everything looks like. If it's ugly the good yards will work with you to make right.
If you are going into a Camaro the truck accessories are worth nothing along with the oil pan. I've got two sets and you can't even give them away. Same with the intake.
I'd go 6.0 or 6.2. Adding L92 heads to the 6.0 is a no brainer.

cypris09

iTrader: (1)

My local yard ( who is part of car-part) usually sells 5.3 with harness and full accessories right around the 5 to 600 mark. 4l60e is about the same. If they haven't pulled a motor you can listen to it. That was for a motor and tranny with about 120k on them too. Most of the time you're better off going to the local yard in my experience. Yes you can get deals and find honest people on craigslist but it's a crapshoot for sure. Ebay and lkq all aim for the high end of pricing. Also keep in mind I'm in northeastern ohio so most truck motors seem to be a little cheaper over the car motors.

CutLS

iTrader: (6)

I found my LS1 and 4L60E with all the wiring, pedal and PCM on Craigslist. I paid $4500 which is a little high but I didn't have to buy wiring or accessories. The reason it was higher because the guy thought it was an LS6 when it was actually an LS1. So know your block or head numbers before buying.

bammax

The problem is that you're in California. If you go to car-part and search for a 01 Silverado and then sort by price it'll put a * on the page with the cheapest prices. Start at that page and work your way up until you get something local. It's $300 or less in the northeast and the great lakes for a running engine.

foppert

Lot great advice here, thanks guys.
I especially like the idea of low balling the ebay guys...

Sounds like a local yard/car part seems to be the consensus. I'll start making some calls and see what i can find.

Donor car idea i also like, but buying from an insurance/police auction never seems to be simple, craigslist is my usual for buying a car but it seems to be so much worse than it used to be. Any advice on where you guys got the donors?

NCDEERE

iTrader: (1)

I don't know why but around here the trucks, Denali's and Tahoe's are cheaper on Face book market place.

kipps

My brother bumped into a 2010 tahoe and totaled it. Our insurance adjuster(a personal friend) had the vehicle sitting at his place, so I inquired about it. A local salvage yard quoted a $1000 offer, so I got it for the same. I sold the seats for $100, and the tranny/transfer case for $200, and got $100 in scrap at the end. I could/should have made more parting it out.

This way, I knew all my components would match, and that I had all the wiring I could possibly need. I also knew it ran fine before the crash, and still ran(but couldn't drive) after the crash.