jdperk-86elco

What year of Olds Cutlass for the condensor with the connections on the top passenger side? The top side is open for the connections to protude and there isn't an openning on the bottom side for connections.

As for the transmission lines I removed the adapters for the clip style connections and purchased some fittings that will scew into the transmission and allow connection of standard tubing lines.

Here is a question for you guys, the stock 4l60e transmission lines look to be 3/8" if I change them to 5/16" will that make a difference or impact the transmission cooling?

I need a new aluminum radiator and I have been told that 1989 TransAm will work but I looked it up today at NAPA and it stated to be 1-1/8" single core will it be enough to cool the LS1? I think it is a Modine 951 as I was looking at the screen.

I am swaying using $&P G-Body headers for $520.00 because it will solve my O2 sensor location and be a direct bolt on instead of running around trying to fab up a solution with the stock exhaust manifolds. So I am going to try and save money buying a Modine 951 radiator instead of a $600.00 from Griffin or BE-Cool.

Hey, I was going to purchase EFI Live later on and now if it can recalibrate the tach signal then I don't have to purchase an adapter and can put that money towards EFI Live. I have downloaded EFI Live to look it over but I can't do anything with it until I purchase there cables and other stuff.

Hey anyone have a stock Corvette throttle body they want to sell? John at SpearTech set this motor up with a truck throttle body with Drive-By-wire and I know it will work but my preference is to have the Corvette version for looks. The truck version has the servo motor on the passenger side instead of the drivers side, also the coolant line interferes with the water pump. This will be a daily driver and I intend to hook it up to the radiator. John has sent me a Corvette 90 degree tube to swap out to make the connection so I have a solution but I think I want to eventually replace it with a Corvette throttle body for looks and to make it totally a corvette setup.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

i haven`t started to put the engine in the car since it is my daily driver, still gathering parts. I am not using the truck exhaust since someone said they are close to the frame, I bought my mounts from 5.3 Racer and he said that the truck exhaust didn`t clear in his cutlass. I didn`t have cats anyway and I found a set of F-body manifolds and cats for cheap so I am going to use those. As far a o2 sensor interference I don`t know yet but I will just relocate them if necessary. All of the truck accessories will fit except the A/C compressor, in fact the truck accessories should allow me to position the motor further back than JohnB so that it will fit witha stock f-body oil pan. I am using a truck harness and computer reworked by me and am mounting ther computer on the drivers inner fender. in the engine compartment

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

JD where did you buy the fittings for your trans lines was it a chain store? if so how about a PN I can`t seem to find any. also did you get them for 5/16 or 3/8 line? Thanks

StickSS

Hi: Gbody Thanks for the information. It looks like you will still have to deal with some of the issues that John and others have had to deal with in the past on these cars. I like the style of motor mounts you are using because you don't have to deal with the oil pan modification issue. But you still have to deal with the A/C issue. Maybe you could get a shorter compressor. I would take the truck compressor to a junk yard and match it up side by side with one from a 3.1 V6 97/98. If the pully is in the same location and the mounting holes are in the same location it might bolt up. The 3.1 compressor has the line outlets on the top a good thing and it looks to be shorter might be a cheap solution. look at the picture of an LS1 in a Gbody Chassis on this web page http:

//mocarss.tripod.com/

Looking at these pictures I don't see where the truck manifolds would rub. It looks like he used custom mounting plates and did not modify the oil pan. looking at these pictures it looks like the 98-99 corvette center dump manifold with O2 sensor bungs in them would fit they dump between the 2 and third 3 cylinders on each bank and point rearward. You might want to experiment with these they flow better than Fbody ones and you can get them for 50 bucks on ebay or corvette forum. I am still waiting for someone to come up with a way to do the swap with all stock and low cost parts. Good luck Bye

jdperk-86elco

I took out the adapter with its short piece of 3/8" tubing to NAPA and they pulled out the fittings. I bought 5/16" since that is what is normally standard size. It isn't high pressure and I don't think the size will impact it much. I can buy standard straight line pieces that will thread into the adapter. I will look on my recipt to see if there are any part numbers but I don't think so.

jdperk-86elco

I am using John B's motor mounts and oil pan and they work great. I don't think the motor can get much further back. The passenger side valve cover is real close to the A/C box plus I had to relocate the #8 coil 1/2" higher on the bracket to get the clearance. His motor mounts locates the motor to within 5/8" of the stock 305 location which is why I went with his. All others I have read move the motor forward and up often allowing to clear the AC compressor. With the weight shift of the motor forward it must impact how the car will handle but maybe not much.

I just clearance the frame for the A/C compressor and John B's oil pan fits the crossmember nicely. I could have relocated the AC compressor to the top of the head without any frame clearancing at all but I chose to make the stock compressor fit for the following reasons:

* Use stock AC compressor and belt setup.
* Saves money not having to buy a new compressor and brackets to relocate to the top.
* I didn't have to remove that much to make it clear and I think I did a jam up job.

That is the route I am going and I am happy so far with the results.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

StickSS: I looked at all the gm v6 compressors in the yard before I bought my camaro v6 compressor and none of them looked like they would be a direct bolt in. I am not worried about moving it to the top since either way I have to have new lines made, and I can fabricate my own bracket so it won`t cost much. I don`t know about the exhaust, I thought truck manifolds should fit but I think it was DucaT who swapped a truck motor in his El Camino and said the manifolds were close, I asked 5.3 Racer because I knew he had used camaro manifolds and he said the truck manifolds didn`t fit. When I swap my engine I will probably hold up the truck ones and see if they would have fit but I have camaro ones so I am going to use them. Ya the vette ones flow better but if I think the camaro ones hinder me I can always put cut outs in right behind the manifolds.

JD: I guess I`ll have to find another NAPA, I tried mine a 2 seperate days last week and both days they said they had nothing like that I knew they should have had it.

ducaT

The truck ones will fit. I had to pull the driver's side and then massage some of the extraneous sheet metal on the firewall to get enough clearance for the installation.

The pass side is no problem, but the driver's side is very close to the frame.
When I get it to the exhaust guys, I'm hoping they can make a small bend there so that I can fit the cat converters on it so it will pass smog.
The truck manifolds I have are the ones without the egr and AIR, but the flange is in the same spot that's just a little too close to the frame rail for me.


I also have a set of 02 f body manifolds just in case the exhaust shop finds that they are a better fit. I do know from comparing the two that the f body stuff hugs the block a little better than the truck stuff. I'd have gone with them right off the bat, but I have to deal with the California Bureau of automotive repair (BAR), so I'm not sure how they'll react to that one.


Other than that I was amazed at how easy it was to slide it in there.

The G force Xmember bolted right in!!

StickSS

Thanks for the info guys. I thought the truck mainfolds would clear without modification. When I get to doing a swap I probably will go with the Fbody manifolds from 01-02 if they fit. Another option might be to get a used set of shorty 01-02 fbody headers and modify them. Cut off the o2 fittings and weld them up and put an O2 sensor in the passenger side. Gbody thanks for the info you probably saved people a lot off work. I am sure other people thought about trying the six cylinder compressors on the stock brackets. Let us know if the cats from the 01 and 02 cars clear the frame OK when you get arround to it. Thanks

ducaT

Well, I switched the exhaust from the 02 truck manifolds to the 02 F body. I just have to block the AIR hole on the driver's side.

There is way more room now to fit the rest of the exhaust, including the cat converters. My next choice was to go to CTS V manifolds, which look to be quite compact.

I'm using the BRM mounts, which did not require oilpan mods(aside from switching to the F body pan) or frame notching(I'm moving the compressor up high on the pass side.

Only problem I have so far is the height of the intake.
The purge solenoid for the Evap is pretty tall.........above the hoodline.

I therefore have 2 choices:
1. cut a hole in the hood, and run a scoop.
2. Switch to an LS1 intake.


I think I'm taking the first choice. Cheaper, and it lets me retain the good low end torque qualities of the truck intake.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

have a link to them BRM mounts, I didn`t think that anyone sold a set that didn`t require notching pan or frame. I already bought a custom made set of mounts that fits w/o notching but I am still curious. You also may be able to move the purge solenoid if thats all thats stopping you. The guy I bought my mounts from said the intake fit below his cutlass hood barely but you couldn`t run the engine cover, but the mounts mount the motor as low as possible, they use f-body motor mounts and the bottom of that mount is only about 3/4" above the frame. I finally started my coversion, swapped rear axles and fuel tanks yesterday, plumbed most of fuel system. Today I pulled the old engine and trans, hope to set 5.3L /4l60e in tomorrow night.

StickSS

Hey Gbody: Good luck with your car post some pictures when you get the motor in. All these letters are getting confusing I thought Duca was using the BRP mounts which mount the engine forward that is why I couldn't under stand why he was having frame interference. Year One has released new motor mounts for these swaps don't know if they are the same as BRM. Looks like you have to use Fbody manifolds with these style mounts. Someone posted pictures of some 03 corvette mainfolds in another thread about stock manifolds. These look very promising to use look like they have O2 bungs in them and don't have air fittings. They exit slightly rearward between the third and 4th cylinders. JD might want to check these out if he doesn't want to shell out the bucks for S and P Headers. I wonder if GTO pully and accessories are the same as Fbody cars? Maybe the GTO A/C Bracket and compressor would clear? The best thing to do before starting any swap would be to get real friendly with your local GM parts manager. This way you could special order or pull parts off the shelf and try them and return them if they don't fit. Keep us posted Bye, See Ya

ducaT

BRM sells the mounts for the ls1, which means f body manifolds/configuration.

I have a 4.8 from a truck, so the exh manifolds are different as well as the height of the truck manifold. If I wanted it to fit under the stock hood, I'd just have to switch to the ls1/6 intake. Really it's kindof a one off.
But so far everything works.
I love scoops anyway

It's not just the purge valve, the manifold itself is just too tall.
And that doesn't even take into account the bracing on the hood underside.

I'll see if I can get some pictures tomorrow.

jdperk-86elco

Hey Guys, I have finally finished all the little details and I am now ready to bolt in the LS1 permanently.

I find it interesting one of you is having hood clearance problems. My install appears to give me plenty of hood clearance. I am using John B's motor mounts and his knotched oil pan. It seems to work really well. I had the motor in and out several times with all the trial fittings and I am very happy with the way the motor sits in the same location as the original motor.

I am deciding how to handle the exhaust manifolds. I am looking at three options:
1. S and P headers then go out from there.
2. I found two local guys that can fabricate custom headers then out from there.
3. The stock F-Body manifolds fit but the lower sections seem to be very tight. The drivers side O2 sensor will hit the frame so I need to relocated it. I think I can put the O2 sensor on the bottom near the top of the Cat on the drivers side.

I am going to go with option 3 because my funds are low. I want to get the F body manifolds to work so I can at least start the car. Then I plan on having the muffler shop use the bottom flanges and fabricate the rest of the exhaust system with placing the O2 sensors in the piping just after the exhaust manifolds. I plan on using Cats also. I think that will be the best route to go. I can always go with headers if I want it to breath better later.

I have alot of the details worked out. New AC Condensor with the fittings on the passenger side from a Regal. New Modine 951 aluminum radiator from a 1989 TransAm. Fuel system is done with a stock FI sender, I had a time finding a hose that would connect to the GM SAGNAW fitting on the sender but luckily the GM Parts dealer found a hose someone ordered but didn't purchase that worked perfectly and sold it to me at cost $28.00. I have the part number if you guys need it.

I knotched my frame to clear the AC Compressor and that was the right decision instead of working with brackets and a longer belt. The installation will look really clean. I just received some Corvette covers that should make it look nice.

I am going with the drive-by-wire setup and I had to modify the pedal to fit because the pedal offsets to the right and my stock pedal offsets to the left. The offset to the right hit the transmission tunnel. I looked at some solutions to angle the pedal on the firewall but that just didn't sit well with me. So I cut and rewelded the pedal to offset it to the left which only shortened it 1/2" and works well.

I have all the wiring interconnection from the engine harness to the car side all mapped out so that shouldn't be hard to do.

I changed my mind and went with 3/8" tubing for transmission lines but the radiator connections are still 5/16" so I will use adapters there.

I think my stock column shifter linkage will work but if not then I will modify it to work. My goal for this stage of the install is just to get it running.

Now if I can just put in two full days in the project I could have the whole thing done. The wife is demanding time so I haven't been able to put in many hours a week.

Questions:
1. Is the yoke on all GM automatic transmissions the same? The original tranny was a 200C and I am installing a 4l60e.

I have pictures I have taken along the way. As soon as I get time to download them from the camera I will post some for you guys to see.

StickSS

Hi JD: I am unsure of the yoke size on the L460E but I remember when I worked in the transmission shop when we used to change the 200C trans to 350 tranny's and we had to put on a yoke from a 350 trans. We did not have to shorten the drive shaft because the trans was the same length. Do you have to shorten the drive shaft to fit? You might want to check with some tranny shops in your area they might be able to help. How does the aluminum radiator fit in, any modification needed? Good Luck

gen 3 bu

iTrader: (2)

a th350 and 700r4/4l60e use the same yoke.
i got my ls1/t56 set in monday night and was wondering how far you can set the engine back and still clear the a/c box. the front pass side exhaust port is in line with the front uca bushing.

jdperk-86elco

I haven't checked but I think I will have to shorted the drive shaft.

The Radiator fits good with no mods needed. My only issue is that the plastic radiator shroud holds the top of the radiator in and bolts to a bottom half to enclose a clutch fan, so I am thinking of cutting everything off and just using the top plastic section to hold down the top of the radiator. It would be nice to find another metal bracket to secure the radiator with.

I am going to the junk yard to look for a late 90s or newer Camaro to find a dual electic fan that should bolt right up to this new radiator. I have been looking for a dual C5 electric fan but no one has a used one saying the Vette guys keep buying up the front ends as fast as anyone gets them. The must be wrecking them alot.

The AC condensor is almost a direct replacement that moves the connections to the top passenger side.

Items I need to solve:
Radiator hoses
Radiator fan(s)
Bend up some transmission lines
Drive shaft length and yoke

jdperk-86elco

Pictures of Frame cut to clear the AC compressor. I only needed to knotch the back section near the motor mount but I decided to cut an angle out of the side to clear the compressor plug and to give room to take out the compressor. I cut a hole to allow access to the motor mount bolts and to clear the aluminum compressor line block in the back.

I am not a welder but my welds aren't too bad.

jdperk-86elco

The Drive-By-Wire pedal was offset to the right where my stock pedal is offset to the left. The pedal hit the transmission tunnel and my only solution was to angle the pedal on the fire wall but I didn't like that idea.

So I cut the pedal in two spots and bent the pedal around and welded it back together to gain the left offset I needed.

My only little glitch is the plastic pedal part is angled too far but it works. I can either try and mod the metal again or just mod the plastic pedal part to get the angle to look right.

Now the pedal is bolted to the firewall staight up and down. All I have to do to make it work is plug up a connector to the control box then the connector to the PCM harness and I have Corvette Drive-by-Wire. The bonus is I get cruise control automatically with just hooking up my car stalk switch. John at SpearTech offers a nice clean setup.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

The driveshaft will have to be shortened, approximately 3 inches. I do not know if the yolk is the same, the th350, 200r4, 700r4, and 4l60e use the same yolk But I don`t know about the th200c.

I am one of the people having hood clearance problems, but that is because I am using a truck motor, the intake manifold is 2-3" taller than your intake (but it looks like that will clear just fine), and the altenator sticks up 1-2 inches above the intake (that may not clear ). if it doesn`t I will put a dent in my spare hood. I can see it now: (person at cruise night):"Why did you paint over that dent in your hood?" ME: "That`s my speed dent it makes the car go faster "