'65 C10 2015 Silverado Pullout laying frame
07-05-2016, 10:13 PM
#1
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'65 C10 2015 Silverado Pullout laying frame '65 C10 BBW SWB all original and beautifully rust free.
Drivetrain:
2015 Silverado Pullout with 13k miles
DOD delete
Custom grind TSP cam (they won't give out the specs due to competition I guess)
Circle D 3200 stall converter
Suspension:
Choppin block front k member
Choppin block tubular control arms
Ridetech tubular trailing arms
Ridetech RQ Shockwaves
Brakes
C5 14" big brake kit
Teaser. More to come.
Drivetrain:
2015 Silverado Pullout with 13k miles
DOD delete
Custom grind TSP cam (they won't give out the specs due to competition I guess)
Circle D 3200 stall converter
Suspension:
Choppin block front k member
Choppin block tubular control arms
Ridetech tubular trailing arms
Ridetech RQ Shockwaves
Brakes
C5 14" big brake kit
Teaser. More to come.
07-06-2016, 08:21 AM
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I love that style truck, cant wait until I retire and don't have to worry about moving every few years so I can have a project truck like this. Looks like a good plan, good luck with the build.
Rock
Rock
07-06-2016, 08:48 AM
#3
I'd never buy a cam if the supplier wasn't willing to supply the specs. Looking forward to more updates !!!
07-06-2016, 09:09 AM
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07-06-2016, 10:37 AM
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Awesome looking truck!!
5.3 or 6.2 engine ?
5.3 or 6.2 engine ?
07-06-2016, 03:42 PM
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5.3.
It's proprietary, I imagine due to all the competition with the new LT motors. They did tell us that the cam is bigger than a 228r though.
Not the truck pictured in the background. That's already finished. It's a built Ls swapped truck as well on a full porterbuilt suspension.
It's proprietary, I imagine due to all the competition with the new LT motors. They did tell us that the cam is bigger than a 228r though.
Not the truck pictured in the background. That's already finished. It's a built Ls swapped truck as well on a full porterbuilt suspension.
07-29-2016, 12:33 AM
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L83/6l90 installed. Going to cut some block off plates for the vacuum pump on the waterjet. I don't see anyone selling them yet, so I might cut some extra for sale.
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07-29-2016, 04:54 PM
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Running into some issues. He went through a local Hotrod shop (won't say any names) and they convinced him to basically make 2 kits work together.
It has a Choppin blocks front kit
And a ridetech rear
Well, they don't work together, and in the end he spent a ton of money buying the kits and ended up with a bunch of parts he couldn't use and ultimately will have to sell to try and recoup some money.
There's absolutely no way the trailing arm mount will accommodate a 1 piece shaft as it. Transmission is -6 degrees layed out and my mock 3" shaft doesn't even come close to the pinion flange (roughly 2-3) before the driveshaft hits the top of the crossmember.
There's pretty much 2 options:
*Cut down the trans mount and take it to say -10 degrees which would give us the room needed (really don't want to do this as I try to stay around 3-6 degrees)
Cut the top bar out between the trailing arm mounts and rebuild it adding a few inches. This is the route which we will most likely go. The sad part is it was a pretty expensive kit.
You can see just how far off it is (granted, its not at ride height, so it would actually pivot down, but I have it set at 0 just to see how far off it would need to be to make it work).
It has a Choppin blocks front kit
And a ridetech rear
Well, they don't work together, and in the end he spent a ton of money buying the kits and ended up with a bunch of parts he couldn't use and ultimately will have to sell to try and recoup some money.
There's absolutely no way the trailing arm mount will accommodate a 1 piece shaft as it. Transmission is -6 degrees layed out and my mock 3" shaft doesn't even come close to the pinion flange (roughly 2-3) before the driveshaft hits the top of the crossmember.
There's pretty much 2 options:
*Cut down the trans mount and take it to say -10 degrees which would give us the room needed (really don't want to do this as I try to stay around 3-6 degrees)
Cut the top bar out between the trailing arm mounts and rebuild it adding a few inches. This is the route which we will most likely go. The sad part is it was a pretty expensive kit.
You can see just how far off it is (granted, its not at ride height, so it would actually pivot down, but I have it set at 0 just to see how far off it would need to be to make it work).
07-31-2016, 09:16 PM
#16
What you're experiencing is exactly why I build my own parts. Of course as you mentioned, buying a complete kit from one supplier could have possibly eliminated this issue as well.
I really like the look of these trucks, but I look like a stilt man on a tricycle driving them. Hahaha.
I really like the look of these trucks, but I look like a stilt man on a tricycle driving them. Hahaha.
08-07-2016, 12:29 PM
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We're selling the Ridetech rear setup and going with a Choppin Blocks like the front as a remedy.
Doors are painted
Prepping the cab for paint (both in and out). Had to put a patch panel in the floor. I don't care how expensive your cab is, there is ALWAYS rust. He paid almost $10k for the truck, and I will end up putting in probably 4-5 days in fixing rust to get it ready.
Paint color will be butternut yellow with a white top, and satin black interior. (Factory A/C truck and will be getting a vintage air setup, so he's not concerned about driving around in a black oven haha)
Doors are painted
Prepping the cab for paint (both in and out). Had to put a patch panel in the floor. I don't care how expensive your cab is, there is ALWAYS rust. He paid almost $10k for the truck, and I will end up putting in probably 4-5 days in fixing rust to get it ready.
Paint color will be butternut yellow with a white top, and satin black interior. (Factory A/C truck and will be getting a vintage air setup, so he's not concerned about driving around in a black oven haha)