LS1 Swap FAQs
02-07-2008, 01:49 PM
#81
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02-07-2008, 02:28 PM
#82
Data from online manual I have 04 GTO data in my online manual. I will take a look at it & see if this info is available.
EDIT
Found it in one place, but the file size is too large for one document (forum rule). I have copied it as PCM Connector C1 and C2 to Microsoft Word Documents & attached them. It will not copy & paste here due to graphics.
Didn't see a listing for a body control unit, too many things in there.
For the clutch switch:
Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) Switch
Connector Part Information
S42
2-Way Female (WH)
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A
GY/BU
275
Neutral Safety Switch Signal
B
GY
434
Park Neutral Position Switch Park Signal
EDIT
Found it in one place, but the file size is too large for one document (forum rule). I have copied it as PCM Connector C1 and C2 to Microsoft Word Documents & attached them. It will not copy & paste here due to graphics.
Didn't see a listing for a body control unit, too many things in there.
For the clutch switch:
Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) Switch
Connector Part Information
S42
2-Way Female (WH)
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A
GY/BU
275
Neutral Safety Switch Signal
B
GY
434
Park Neutral Position Switch Park Signal
Last edited by V8 Supra Builder; 02-07-2008 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Attachment
02-09-2008, 09:48 PM
#85
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Another option for the steam line is to just get the T coupler found on the 1992 Corvette upper radiator hose. They run about $13 from GM and you simply cut your upper hose, slide it in, then route the steam line to the nipple on the coupler. My guess is GM did this vs. a whole new radiator design when they started the LT1 in the C4 - which the steam line continued in the LS series motors but those have nipples in the radiator.
I'm picking one up tomorrow and will edit this post with the GM part number.
PART NUMBER: 14104460
I'm picking one up tomorrow and will edit this post with the GM part number.
PART NUMBER: 14104460
02-11-2008, 10:00 PM
#86
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need flanges for your 302 or 351 headers to bolt onto your mustang?
PN 0178 for the 1 3/4" LS1 flange, 1 3/4" its $24.95 for the pair.
http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/
PN 0178 for the 1 3/4" LS1 flange, 1 3/4" its $24.95 for the pair.
http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/
02-28-2008, 08:35 PM
#88
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Put the LS6 rear steam caps on all 4 holes and don't worry about putting a hole in your water pump. The only reason for the holes is to get constant flow through the TB for cold weather. You're wasting your money buying bypass kits and drilling holes in pumps. Make sure you fill your radiator through the hose and bleed the plugs in your heads as you fill and you'll be fine. Been there, done that and I'm trying to save you guys alot of heartache and wasted time.
02-28-2008, 08:56 PM
#89
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Put the LS6 rear steam caps on all 4 holes and don't worry about putting a hole in your water pump. The only reason for the holes is to get constant flow through the TB for cold weather. You're wasting your money buying bypass kits and drilling holes in pumps. Make sure you fill your radiator through the hose and bleed the plugs in your heads as you fill and you'll be fine. Been there, done that and I'm trying to save you guys alot of heartache and wasted time.
02-28-2008, 10:30 PM
#90
I'm running the 97-98 style crossover on my 5.3 with a LS6 intake, had to grind a few of the ribs on the bottom of the intake to get the lines to fit. Anybody else doing this? I think it's going to work, just seems like GM wouldn't have designed it into the engine if it wasn't usefull at all. 
02-28-2008, 10:43 PM
#91
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It was designed for the throttle body. I've talked with GM, AFR and Patriot before plugging them off and I was told I didn't need them. It's your choice to use the TB bypass holes and I'm not telling you not to but it's just a waste of money to make mods you don't need if the coolant system is filled correctly and bled. Your older heads don't have them and the coolant passages are pretty much the same design. The LS1 uses the older conventional cooling direction which forces air bubbles downward unlike the reverse flow heads which directed air upward causing hot spots. I just wanted to share my experience on deleting them on over 15 LS1's with no issues. Not trying to disrespect anyones opinion just letting you guys know a fact.
Last edited by WS6Truck; 02-28-2008 at 11:09 PM.
02-29-2008, 12:29 PM
#93
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Thanks GIGAPUNK, the rear vents on the LS6 come plugged from the factory. The only reason for 4 vents is to be able to swap heads from one side to the other. On the LS6's the front vents only go through the throttle body. If they were really needed that bad the rears wouldn't come plugged off.
04-04-2008, 10:26 PM
#94
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Originally Posted by SatisTraction
...
Misc.
12369966 SS logo (Silver)
12369965 SS logo (Red)
25121942 Fuel filter
...
Misc.
12369966 SS logo (Silver)
12369965 SS logo (Red)
25121942 Fuel filter
...
04-27-2008, 03:00 AM
#96
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Could any one give at least 2 web sites sale these parts?
F-body Oil Pan: 12558762
F-body Oil Pump Pickup: 12558251
F-body Windage Tray: 12558253
F-body Dipstick: 12551581
F-body Dipstick Tube: 12551577
F-body Oil Pan: 12558762
F-body Oil Pump Pickup: 12558251
F-body Windage Tray: 12558253
F-body Dipstick: 12551581
F-body Dipstick Tube: 12551577
05-12-2008, 09:45 PM
#98
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With the steam tube disconnected from the TB, there is no need to cap off the tubes that go through it as there is no flow of anything through it. I ran from my steam tube output directly to a port on my radiator. You can use some pliers to twist and pull the tubes out of the TB for a cleaner look.
The top of the radiator in my sandrail is higher than the tube. I use a vacuum pump to suck all the air out of the head.
The top of the radiator in my sandrail is higher than the tube. I use a vacuum pump to suck all the air out of the head.
08-12-2008, 04:02 PM
#99
I have been on a quest to convert my clutch line over to my s-10 Clutch master and have come up with some quick connect fittings that allow me to use -4 lines and ditch that quick disconnect.
This fitting Will install in the place of the stock style fitting and uses the stock roll pin. This can be used in almost all late model gm clutch masters and slaves. You can remove the stock f-body fitting from the throw out bearing or from the slave and install this..... these are kind of expensive but being able to convert the stock slave to a -4 style fitting is well worth the cost.
I snapped a few pics and can get you guys some part numbers If you want.
This fitting Will install in the place of the stock style fitting and uses the stock roll pin. This can be used in almost all late model gm clutch masters and slaves. You can remove the stock f-body fitting from the throw out bearing or from the slave and install this..... these are kind of expensive but being able to convert the stock slave to a -4 style fitting is well worth the cost.
I snapped a few pics and can get you guys some part numbers If you want.
