Motor plates make conversions easier.
07-22-2005, 06:39 PM
#1
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Motor plates make conversions easier. http://www.ktsracing.com/motorplates.htm
Just have the outer dimensions custom cut to match the chasis...
Just have the outer dimensions custom cut to match the chasis...
07-26-2005, 11:16 PM
#3
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Look at the red Camaro on the link, the plate bolts to the motor and then to the chassis. It can (but probably shouldn't) replace motor mounts but more importantly can reinforce them. It's also a way to mount accessories like alts, compressors, and pumps.
07-27-2005, 12:35 AM
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That's what I thought - but I couldn't picture it. I was thinking it's like a big 'ol motor mount, but then if it's as tight toleranced as it looks it'd be like a solid connection between the motor and chassis with no give, whereas common motor mounts have rubber to isolate and absorb (my assumption anyways, I'm not ASE certified - just a weekend wrencher). How does the plate bolt to the motor - using existing fastener locations or would you have to drill and tap your own I wonder. And as for the accessories - it's basically like a giant universal accessory bracket - guess you could mount whatever you wanted where ever you want.
Seems like it's a racing solution - haven't seen one on a street-driven car.
Here's the picture you were talking about - I was checking it out before I posted.
Seems like it's a racing solution - haven't seen one on a street-driven car.
Here's the picture you were talking about - I was checking it out before I posted.
07-27-2005, 08:52 AM
#5
the idea is the engine doesnt move.
it IS a race only solution... i mean you COULD drive it on the street that way, but the idea is to solidly mount the motor... this gives a few benifits.
1. all the energy is being used to move the car.. not compress the motor bushings.
2. it doesnt move, so if you run a pipe a 1/8" from it, it wont hit it. (nice for cramped turbo installs)
3. you can take out the bulky engine mounts and have more room for a exhaust system under the ports... also good for turbo systems.
it IS a race only solution... i mean you COULD drive it on the street that way, but the idea is to solidly mount the motor... this gives a few benifits.
1. all the energy is being used to move the car.. not compress the motor bushings.
2. it doesnt move, so if you run a pipe a 1/8" from it, it wont hit it. (nice for cramped turbo installs)
3. you can take out the bulky engine mounts and have more room for a exhaust system under the ports... also good for turbo systems.
07-27-2005, 05:16 PM
#6
Originally Posted by NOTAHONDA
It can (but probably shouldn't) replace motor mounts
it 100% SHOULD replace the motor mounts....
plate mounts are the only way to go (I think...)......after converting my 01Z28 to motor plates (front and mid) I will NEVER EVER EVER EVER use stock style motor mounts on anything else.........
and yes the Z28 IS my daily driver.......drives me to school/work/store/etc.... (school and work are 45min each way)...
07-27-2005, 05:51 PM
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Never leave home w/o them:
These are Stenod Racing motorplates btw. Alum front (3/8") and steel mid (1/4"). Best plates I've seen for the ls1's hands down.
These are Stenod Racing motorplates btw. Alum front (3/8") and steel mid (1/4"). Best plates I've seen for the ls1's hands down.
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07-29-2005, 10:27 AM
#11
Originally Posted by petroltherapy
So, since it's a solid connection - does your car shake rattle and roll like Big Joe Turner?!
actually with the motor plates and my solid roller 388, water drops will sit on the hood/windshield/etc. and won't even jiggle......
soft rubber and even poly mounts let the engine get "moving" (let it jiggle) before they load up so the engine is constantly "bouncing around" in its motor mounts.....
solid and plate mounts don't let the engine ever get moving so it has to move the entire 3500lb car to "shake" and that takes a good bit of energy.....far more than your average "idle shakes" will provide.........
from the outside the car "idles" (shake wise) like a BMW (smooth as glass...really....
) but it's when you puch the gas that you realize there is NO/ZIP/NADA/NOTHING slack in the system 
Originally Posted by sb427f-car
so what do you do...weld them or bolt them into the frame rails, right? What about the mounts off of the k-member for the motor?
you weld mounts to the frame and the motor plates bolt to those mounts.....the engine is no longer in any way attached to the K-member......the K-member is left to do the job it should really be doing.......SUSPENSION.....
you cut/unbolt the stock style mount off the K-member which cuts weight off there (though you add more weight back on with the plates and their mounts
).
07-29-2005, 10:54 AM
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Wow - so I guess this is a real world option then . . cool.
Do you have pictures of accessories mounted and the welded plate mounts where it meets the frame?
Also on the mid plate if you have them or are willing to take some.
Do you have pictures of accessories mounted and the welded plate mounts where it meets the frame?
Also on the mid plate if you have them or are willing to take some.
07-29-2005, 11:12 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
actually with the motor plates and my solid roller 388, water drops will sit on the hood/windshield/etc. and won't even jiggle......
soft rubber and even poly mounts let the engine get "moving" (let it jiggle) before they load up so the engine is constantly "bouncing around" in its motor mounts.....
solid and plate mounts don't let the engine ever get moving so it has to move the entire 3500lb car to "shake" and that takes a good bit of energy.....far more than your average "idle shakes" will provide.........
from the outside the car "idles" (shake wise) like a BMW (smooth as glass...really.... ) but it's when you puch the gas that you realize there is NO/ZIP/NADA/NOTHING slack in the system
you weld mounts to the frame and the motor plates bolt to those mounts.....the engine is no longer in any way attached to the K-member......the K-member is left to do the job it should really be doing.......SUSPENSION.....
you cut/unbolt the stock style mount off the K-member which cuts weight off there (though you add more weight back on with the plates and their mounts ).
soft rubber and even poly mounts let the engine get "moving" (let it jiggle) before they load up so the engine is constantly "bouncing around" in its motor mounts.....
solid and plate mounts don't let the engine ever get moving so it has to move the entire 3500lb car to "shake" and that takes a good bit of energy.....far more than your average "idle shakes" will provide.........
from the outside the car "idles" (shake wise) like a BMW (smooth as glass...really....
) but it's when you puch the gas that you realize there is NO/ZIP/NADA/NOTHING slack in the system you weld mounts to the frame and the motor plates bolt to those mounts.....the engine is no longer in any way attached to the K-member......the K-member is left to do the job it should really be doing.......SUSPENSION.....
you cut/unbolt the stock style mount off the K-member which cuts weight off there (though you add more weight back on with the plates and their mounts
).Ok, that makes sense. Or you can just order a k-member without the motor mounts
. 
07-29-2005, 01:10 PM
#15
Originally Posted by petroltherapy
Wow - so I guess this is a real world option then . . cool.
Do you have pictures of accessories mounted and the welded plate mounts where it meets the frame?
Also on the mid plate if you have them or are willing to take some.
Do you have pictures of accessories mounted and the welded plate mounts where it meets the frame?
Also on the mid plate if you have them or are willing to take some.
you are in luck.....the car just happens to be apart while I convert to a FAST XFI outerwise I would say it's too damn hot outside (AZ summer)
..... 
