Originally Posted by 66 chevy truck man

Just so you know Shifty the only reason I posted what I did is so that someone who is trying to do a conversion on a budget dosent say oh crap I cant afford to spend a $1,000 bucks on a fuel system and so they get scared and never do the project.

Originally Posted by shifty`

Ok, here is my fuel setup, finally took a couple of pics tonight and posting before crashing out.

Supplies and part numbers:

(1) Fuel Pressure gauge, Summit P/N: SUM-800199
(1) Aeroquip adapter P/N: 2242-2-4s (to adapt fuel pressure gauge to fuel rail)
(1) Stock Corvette fuel pressure regulator/filter unit, GM P/N 10299146
(1) 20' spool of -6AN braided steel hose, Summit P/N: SUM-230620 ($74)
(1) Russel Fuel rail adapter 10mm->3/8", Summit P/N: RUS-640850 ($14)
(1) Custom aluminum tank build by board member FuelCellGuy ($625 with pump and sender?)
(-) Tank uses a 'Tanks Inc.' pump setup, Tanks Inc. P/N: PA-2 (note: part no. 'PA-4' will also work).
(-) Tank was coated with Line-X at a local spray shop ($60)
(2) Earl's -6 AN to 1/4 in. NPT 90º swivel adapter, Summit P/N: EAR-829006ERL ($25/ea)
(4) -6 AN hose ends (hose to -6 AN female), Summit P/N: SUM-220690 ($5/ea)
(1) S&P Corvette Fuel Filter adapter 3-piece adapter kit (compression to -6 AN fittings) $100 at www.hotrodlane.cc -> OTHER OPTIONS HERE***


*** NOTE: I was not happy with S&P's fittings and would go with an aftermarket Fuel pressure regulator and separate inline filter next time


Basic diagram of setup from pump to filter:

(Fuel pump) supply -> Earl's swivel -> -6 AN hose end -> -6 AN hose -> -6 AN hose end -> FPR/filter tank supply (S&P fitting)
(Fuel pump) return -> Earl's swivel -> -6 AN hose end -> -6 AN hose -> -6 AN hose end -> FPR/filter tank return (S&P fitting)

Basic setup from FPR/filter to rail:

Filter/FPR -> Filter port to rail (S&P fitting) -> -6 AN hose end -> -6 AN hose -> -6 AN hose end -> Russell fuel rail adapter

That is it in a nutshell.

As you can see in the pictures, I mounted the Vette Filter/FPR to the rear wall of the bed by drilling a hole there and bolting it down. NOTE: the Vette FPR is a joke, and the fitment sucks (stock bracket blows). If I were going to use it again, I would fab up my own bracket, but honestly, it's in your best interest to buy a better aftermarket FPR and use an inline fuel filter between that and the rail.

The S&P fittings are compression and honestly don't fit worth a crap. If you ever need to replace the Filter/FPR, unless you can find a suitable compression ring, you'll be buying new S&P fittings (expensive). Not an ideal situation.

So, long story short, I have two Earl's 90º fittings at the pump taps, Summit fittings attached to those, then a hose up to (and returning from) the Filter/FPR, then the single line out to the rail. All of this was done with exactly 20' of hose, and I will have ~3ft excess after proper routing.

This is ghetto, but because of the lack of sturdiness of the stock GM filter bracket, I had to wire-tie both ends of the filter stems to the rear wall of the bed as you can see. This is to keep movement to a minimum (it works well). The fuel pump power lead and sender lead were both ran along the brake line (down pass side framerail) and into the cab through the hole in the floor where the original stock fuel line went theourh the bottom of the cab.

All fittings were sealed with teflon tape except one (guess what? that fitting is the only one that leaked when testing the pump!! gotta undo it and teflon tape it)

For the fuel rail, I also removed the stock schrader valve from the front of the driver's side fuel rail and installed a fuel pressure gauge there (MORE INFO HERE). Pics of the setup are in the thread I just linked It looks nice.

To test the fuel lines for leaks, I added 5 gallons of fuel to the tank, then properly wired in a relay for the fuel pump - wire diagrams are available here at the forum. DO NOT run your electric fuel pump without at least a couple of gallons of gas in the tank, you'll burn it up (sorry, some people really have no clue about this one, so I gotta say it)

Turn the key to ACC, the fuel pump will run for ~2 seconds to pressurize your lines. Check all fittings for leaks. Check the pressure gauge to make sure you have roughly 50PSI to the rail (pressure will slowly drop off over a few minutes time).

EDIT: Making fuel lines is easy. I was scared to do it because of stories from guys aout shredding their fingers, etc. Here is a simple breakdown of how to do it:

- Get some of the fiberglass packing tape from the store - you know, the transparent tape with white fabric threads running through it. You'll find it at ace hardware.

- Measure your braided line. Mark the hose at the point that the fitting should end.

- Take a the tape, center the tape over the mark you made so that you have equal amounts of tape on either side of the mark - wrap the tape around the hose for one single loop and barely overlapping the ends by 1/4" - pull it tightly together before sticking it.

- Take a dremel or similar cutting wheel (supposedly a sharp chisel will work) and cut the hose in the middle of the tape where your mark would be. The end product will be two taped ends of braided hose. The tape will keep the steel braids from flaring out all over the damn place and cutting you up.

- Take one end of hose, take your hose-end fitting and separate it into two pieces. Remove the tape and quickly push and twist, push and twist, push and twist the hexagonal shaped female end onto the hose end until the hose bottoms out into it. This will take some force - be a man

- With a marker, mark the braided hose where it meets the edge of the fitting. Watch this mark closely as you follow the next step to make sure the fitting doesn't "slip".

- Take the other half of the fitting (tube end) and screw the fitting back together again. This will compress the fitting onto the hose. Result: You are 1/6 of the way through with your hoses if you are using the same setup as me.

Hoses are a piece of cake. I didn't shred my hands once. Be patient, work slowly, never remove the tape until you are prepared to affix the fitting, make sure if the hose end flares, to stuff all the flared pieces into the fitting before you twist it on - and always mark the hose/fitting and look for slippage.

Pics attached of the general setup.