Speartech

iTrader: (14)

I've always wired up the field lead when using the Vette alternator, so I'm not sure what it would do if you didn't. It's a different voltage regulator in the Vette alternator so I would assume you need to wire the field in for proper operation. You could tap into the purge canister power lead (it's close by) for a switched 12 volt source.

The field wire can be left out with no change in the function of the alternator. It was only used in some applications as an internal diagnostic to determine if the alternator is functioning properly.

Dave_62

iTrader: (10)

Sounds good to me. I'll do it that way. Thanks John!

Payne

iTrader: (3)

Im a bit confused...

Do I need this resistor to keep from blowing a 2000 alternator? I just pluged the plug from my wiring harness directly into my alternator, and everything works fine as far as I know....

-Jason

umedevelopment

hey slow 346, can you explain how you did the one wire hookup. I have a corvette stock alt in a 69 camaro with the painless wiring kit. car starts but battery doesn't hold charge. I don't have the plug in switch from factory so can I get the alt to work without that factory plug in since I am not running a computer on the ls1 as it is a carb setup?

umedevelopment

Payne, you pluged the plum from you wiring with what and how did you get the alternator to operate without the plug in?

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

This thread told me everything I need to know to wire up a Camaro alternator in a car with no PCM!

A couple of other points to make. The B terminal is also the voltage sensing wire for the regulator, so it is a good idea to have it come all the way out to the fuse box. It would be easy to hook the 500 ohm resistor to the output lug of the alternator, but then the regulator would be regulating the voltage there rather than at the fuse box.

Also I would think an LED could be used if it is connected in series with the resistor. With a 500 ohm resistor you would need a 25-30 milliamp LED.

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm

Again thanks for the good info.

Dave88z

I learned from experience that you need that resistor or a bulb in the circuit. When I rewired my car I ran 12v thru a regular wire. On a road test I glanced over at the laptop and noticed overvoltage faults. Turns out it was charging at something like 20v! I thought I could drive it home because I was only 2 miles away, but when I got back and opened the battery box...
One exploded optima battery and a ruined brand new rear carpet set as well as staining the aluminum battery box.
I will never make that mistake again!!!!!

patrick_rodgers

One additional thing I found after a bunch of beating head against the wall. I kept getting the DTC for F wire failure.

Replaced the battery (an old Optima) and once you rev the engine above 2,500 prm, the DTC fault doesn't return.

nitrovette

iTrader: (13)

WIll this do the trick?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

nitrovette

iTrader: (13)

Ijust a put alight inline and it worked fine.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

That will work just fine. I checked the alldata diagrams for a 98 and it is actually listed as 470 ohms so this will also work http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2062320&cp
There really is not much of a voltage difference between the two so either one is fine.

nitrovette

iTrader: (13)

Thanks i went to radio shack and theyonly had the 470 ohm so i wasnt sure and bought a light instead,good to know i can use the 470 ohm too.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Does anyone know if the truck alternators use the same wiring as the vette alts? The truck alternators also use terminals B and C and I want to make sure that the alt will function properly if I put IGN + 12V to terminal C and an idiot light with 12V to terminal B. I am having charging problems and want to isolate the alternator from the computer.

lechner80

John If I use the F-Body Harness (with the vette alt) would the single red wire that went to the f-body alt. just go to "B" pin on the vette alt.? And the "C" pin go to a switched 12 volt. And the "D" go to battery? Thanks John L.

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

Yes, that's correct. I don't know if you need the "D" to the battery or not. I guess it depends on what model year your alternator is for. Most of the alternators use what is called an "internal sense" for voltage control so there is no connection at D, but I see some of the newer models are going to an external sense and actually running "D" to the battery.

lechner80

WOW, THANKS FOR THE QUICK RESPONSE AND INFO. JOHN L

lechner80

John will I still need a resistor in the red wire from the F-Body PCM to the Vette Alt; or is this handled by the PCM or the factory harness. Thanks John L.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

You don`t need to run a resistor as long as it is a 99-02 f-body harness the PCM takes care of the resistance. If it is a 98 harness you will need to add a resistor or idiot light.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

On my LT1/280Z swap, the CS144 alternator was wired in to a +12V source with ignition on w/o the resistor and was not charging. I added the 470 ohm Radio Shack resistor in this line and it still is not charging. Of course, this alternator came with another motor I had bought a while ago so I don't know if it was any good to start with.

When this happens, what part of the alternator is damaged? The rectifier or voltage regulator or something else?

Is it worthwhile to rebuild it (complete kit about $50)?

I think I have this figured out for my Toyota swap (CS130 alternator)- the charge light wire is reversed polarity from the GM setup, but I can handle that with a relay to reverse the polarity.

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

It's the voltage regulator that is damaged from it.