V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

Thank you sir.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Where did you find a rebuild kit? When my voltage regulator became flakey I looked everywhere for a voltage regulator or rebuild kit and I could not find one. I ended up getting a junkyard alt.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

There is a seller on Ebay listing the late model CS144 kit for $42.xx plus $6.xx shipping. The kit includes the rectifier, bearings, brushes, and regulator. Seems to be the best deal around unless you have an account with one of the "Secret Society" parts suppliers. I found a PDF with prices and this stuff adds up to like $20 if you are a rebuilder.

Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALTER...spagenameZWDVW

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

Any idea if it's possible to run a real idiot light with a 99 Fbody alternator and PCM? I built an alternator idiot light into my gauge cluster, and didn't realize that the 99's idiot light is ECM/serial driven until tonight when everything I had planned to hook up to C100/C101/C105/C220/C230 was done and my alternator light lead was still dangling.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

From reading the above and looking at the 99 PCM pinout (C1-15, red wire, alternator), it seems like you could tap an LED into the red wire by the alt which should not skew the load sensing since the LED doesn't draw a load like the lamp. I drew a small diagram to illustrate how this would work and have attached it below.

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

im dropping in an ls1 in my wrangler

i just ordered a ls1 alternator pigtail from efi connections

it has the plug, and then a red wire and a black wire coming out of it. do i just connect those to the jeeps alternator positive and negative wires? im having a hard time following the idiot bulb and ohm stuff

rawpwr7

iTrader: (2)

same here, can someone draw a diagram with the light or resistor???

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

John,

I hate to dredge up old news, but I'm seeing conflicting info from various sources and need clarification. I'm using a complete 2003 Corvette engine in my '72 Maverick. It's carbed with an MSD ignition controller, so no PCM.

My alternator's plug is labeled (from inside to outside) S-F-L-P. I bought a 4-pin pigtail from NAPA that's labeled A-B-C-D. Since most info is more relavent to an S-I-L-P, I'd like to get the proper way to wire my alt. I did my wiring before finding ths thread, and currently have "B" (or "F") wired to 12V key-on and "C" (or "L") wired to an 12V LED dash indicator (my thoughts on the LED are that in order to use it with 12V, it must have a resistor built into it). I can live w/o the indicator if need be, as I have a voltmeter. The car has not been started yet, but it's close.

Thanks for your help,

Russ

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

Russ,

You might want to measure the resistance of the light you are using, just to know what it is.

You're backwards in your connector to alternator correlation above. B should line up with L, C should line up with F, and D should line up with S.

You want your light to go to B/L, NOT C/F. Key on can go to C/F (it will probably work fine with no connection to C/F).

If you need D/S, that can loop back to the output post on the back of the alternator, if it's not going into your harness somewhere.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

I tried VOM'ing the lamp resistance (meter between the lamp line at the alt. pigtail and case ground), it shows open no matter what scale. However, with key-on, I do get 10.5V down the lamp line. < Last night at work, I realized this wasn't a valid test. Today I tested from the pink (12V key-on) back to the lamp light at the alt. This tested the resistance of the lamp (plus a dozen or so feet of wire) but I still get the same result >.

I'm not at all suprised that my cheap Chinese replacement pigtail is marked back-asswards. I will go by what the markings on the alternator shroud show.

I can/will swap the wiring around as you show. Since all I've heard about the Corvette alt. is "they're different", my next question is: what exactly needs to be wired in order to charge and not harm the alternator? As previously stated, I can do without the lamp (and it may not work anyways)...

Thanks!

Russ

Aceonbass

I'm dropping a 2004 LQ9 into my 1966 Buick Skylark and am running carburation with the Edelbrock kit. I'm almost finished and would like to know how to wire my stock 2004 truck alternator. My car was converted to an internally regulated alternator long ago, so besides the fat red wire going to the post on the rear of the alternator, what do I do with the red and brown wire that went to my old alternator? From reading these posts, it looks as if I don't use the red wire at all, and just use the brown wire to terminal B with a 500 ohm resister in series. Is that correct? When my build is done, I will post some pics and info on this conversion here. Thanks.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

If its a 2004 truck alt you need to hook the large red wire to the post on the back. The brown wire needs to go directly to terminal B. The brown wire already has 500 ohms of resistance built in, could be from an idiot light in the dash or from a resistance section in the wire. You also need to hook +12v ignition hot to terminal C

Aceonbass

Before the answer to my post was posted, I went to work on the car in question and saw the alternator marked S F L P in the connector cavity instead of A B C D (reading glasses work wonders). Based on further research done, I wired it with the brown wire going to L and the skinny red wire to S with the fat red wire to the post. The skinny read wire is always hot, while the brown wire is hot only with the key on. My source was info supplied by GM Performance Parts for the alternator supplied with their accessory drive kits. I won't be firing the car up till Wednesday. Was I correct or not? Thanks

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

As far as I can tell that isn`t correct. The brown wire does go to the L terminal. But the other wire should connect to the F terminal and it should only be hot in the start and run positions. The large red wire does go to the post on the back.

Aceonbass

I swapped the red wire over to the F terminal and within a few minutes the rear of the alternator got VERY hot, so I switched it back. I hope I didn't damage the alternator. I'm fireing the engine up tomorrow night.

Aceonbass

This morning we figured out that, besides the heavy gauge red wire going to the rear post on the alternator, there was only need for the brown wire (12V switched ign) to go to the second terminal from the left in the connector (as sitting in the car). The constant 12V small gauge red wire has been taped back in the harness for now. The alternator charges just fine. Dropped the car off at the muffler shop for new down pipes and will pick it up tomorrow.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Glad to hear that you have it figured out. Weird that the truck alt didn`t require the second wire, all the diagrams I have show the trucks using the 2 wires. But it just matters that it works.

gjohnson

iTrader: (4)

Ok, guys I'm looking for a little clairification on my Altenator wiring. I have 04 Truck motor, Harness and PCM, but I'm running a 2001 or 2002 Z28 altenator. I've been told conflicting ways that I should hook this up and I currently have removed 2 of the wires from my 3 wire plug leaving only plug B hooked up. Is this correct? I was told today that my system would not charge this way since the PCM would not be receiving the 3 signals it's looking for, but I don't know. Right now my TAC and Pedal still don't operate which I've read can be a result of the system not charging. I also, don't have a dash indicator or know of any way to verify if the system is actually charging or not.

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

also need clarification....99+ wiring harness/pcm systems do not need a resistor/light, the pcm controls chargeing rate...is this true or false ?...TIA

rockytopper

TRUE 99+ don't need it.