Factory camaro alternator question
#61
Staging Lane
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Mooresville, IN
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so in my mustang, it has a 2000 f body pcm, with a truck harness-not sure of the year. It has truck alternator. I have a blue, brown, and white wires. The only one I need is the brown? The blue and white wires can go bye bye. Or do I need them with the truck alternator?
#64
sawzall wielding director
iTrader: (4)
If your running the truck wiring harness and f-body or truck PCM you don`t need to do anything. The PCM takes care of it. The blue wire can be removed, as it will not be connected to anything on the other side (it used to go to the ABS module, but is no longer needed).
#66
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Can someone clarify for me the purpose of the C wire that gets 12v key on???
With my sbc and 12si alternator it was batt wire, field(lamp) and a sense wire. I'm reading in this thread that in the lsx, the alternator gets voltage sensing off the fiel wire, so what's the purpose of the C wire
With my sbc and 12si alternator it was batt wire, field(lamp) and a sense wire. I'm reading in this thread that in the lsx, the alternator gets voltage sensing off the fiel wire, so what's the purpose of the C wire
#67
have a 98 ls1 im using the pcm and the alt i have a 4 wire harness and my battery not charging witch wire do I hook it up if I hold up the 4 wire plug with the clip facing up I hooked it up to the 3rd wire is that the wrong one I hear it needs to be hooked up to the 2nd wire
#69
sawzall wielding director
iTrader: (4)
If you are using a truck harness with a truck PCM I would pop out the gray wire too. The camaro alt should only need the one wire (red on a f-body harness, or brown on the truck harness). I don`t think leaving the gray wire hooked up would hurt anything, but I do not know.....so I would remove it to be safe.
#70
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: N. E. Arkansas
Posts: 639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are using a truck harness with a truck PCM I would pop out the gray wire too. The camaro alt should only need the one wire (red on a f-body harness, or brown on the truck harness). I don`t think leaving the gray wire hooked up would hurt anything, but I do not know.....so I would remove it to be safe.
#73
11 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,796
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i little help.
the brown wire that goes to the pigtail on my alternator has 7v when running.
my car wont charge at all. i was told it only needed 5v and that if it had 7v it would fry my alternator.
i have one ground braided strap going form the right head to the frame rail. should i add more?
its a standalone harness from techrods
the brown wire that goes to the pigtail on my alternator has 7v when running.
my car wont charge at all. i was told it only needed 5v and that if it had 7v it would fry my alternator.
i have one ground braided strap going form the right head to the frame rail. should i add more?
its a standalone harness from techrods
#74
TECH Regular
iTrader: (12)
can someone please help me solve my alternator problem on my carbed setup!
I believe i have a 01 camaro alternator, its a reman from autozone. at the moment i have a small light bulb wired in series from a keyed 12v source to the "L" terminal on the alternator. once i key over the ignition the light bulb lights up then goes out when the car is running. I test the terminals leading to the light bulb and i get constant battery voltage. so why does the bulb go out?
my battery with the car off reads 12.6 but the gauge reads almost a whole volt lower at 11.8...
with the car running i get 14.4V at the battery, alternator, and all under hood wiring. but the 12v lead to my volt gauge reads 13.4 and so does the gauge face.
Im loosing a volt some place!!
also if i rev my engine up to 3000-4000 i get a huge voltage drop. My head lights also cause a voltage drop.
IM CARBED!! HOW DO I WIRE THIS CRAZY CS ALTERNATOR!!!!
I believe i have a 01 camaro alternator, its a reman from autozone. at the moment i have a small light bulb wired in series from a keyed 12v source to the "L" terminal on the alternator. once i key over the ignition the light bulb lights up then goes out when the car is running. I test the terminals leading to the light bulb and i get constant battery voltage. so why does the bulb go out?
my battery with the car off reads 12.6 but the gauge reads almost a whole volt lower at 11.8...
with the car running i get 14.4V at the battery, alternator, and all under hood wiring. but the 12v lead to my volt gauge reads 13.4 and so does the gauge face.
Im loosing a volt some place!!
also if i rev my engine up to 3000-4000 i get a huge voltage drop. My head lights also cause a voltage drop.
IM CARBED!! HOW DO I WIRE THIS CRAZY CS ALTERNATOR!!!!
#75
sawzall wielding director
iTrader: (4)
If you are getting 14.4 at the alt and bat while the car is running the alternator is wired correctly and doing its job. If your voltage is lower in the rest of your electrical system it is not an alt issue, its with the rest of the vehicle wiring. Start checking the grounds and then go to checking the main wires that go from the battery to the voltage gauge, sounds like you have a dirty connection somewhere. Sounds like somewhere between the underhood wiring and the interior wiring, check the wires that provide power to the interior.
#76
TECH Regular
iTrader: (12)
what would cause the alternator to drop voltage when reved up? trying to determine if my alt was working in the first place i installed an smaller overdrive pulley on it. could that cause that to happen?
i plan to tear out the dash this week and see whats up with it. The entire car was rewired using a painless 18 gm muscle car harness.
i never had a single issue with it when i ran a SBC with an internal regulated alt.
i plan to tear out the dash this week and see whats up with it. The entire car was rewired using a painless 18 gm muscle car harness.
i never had a single issue with it when i ran a SBC with an internal regulated alt.
#77
TECH Regular
iTrader: (12)
its all fixed and working now!
i ended up exchanging the alternator that was giving me a partial charge for a new one. I wired it up the same way with a light bulb in series to the L terminal and i now get a constant 14V throughout the entire system!
battery yields 14.3
alternator lead 14.3
fuse panel 14.3
volt gauge displays 14V
lead to the volt gauge yields 14V
i also sanded the contact points on the alternator bracket they had a tiny bit of black paint on them. I wonder if it also helps that this alternator has a standard pulley on it now as opposed to the ASP overdrive unit i tried out.
also the alternator withstands high revs. i held the engine at 5000 rpm for a few seconds and it still held 14V.
the headlights still draw power though. looks like i will add relays and see if that helps any.
i ended up exchanging the alternator that was giving me a partial charge for a new one. I wired it up the same way with a light bulb in series to the L terminal and i now get a constant 14V throughout the entire system!
battery yields 14.3
alternator lead 14.3
fuse panel 14.3
volt gauge displays 14V
lead to the volt gauge yields 14V
i also sanded the contact points on the alternator bracket they had a tiny bit of black paint on them. I wonder if it also helps that this alternator has a standard pulley on it now as opposed to the ASP overdrive unit i tried out.
also the alternator withstands high revs. i held the engine at 5000 rpm for a few seconds and it still held 14V.
the headlights still draw power though. looks like i will add relays and see if that helps any.
#78
I read this thread 4 times now. Still confused.
Using a 4.8 2002 truck motor, with computer I just hooked the battery to the back post on the alt. and left the two wire plug from the 02 4.8 harness plugged into the alternator. I have a single brown wire from my original truck 89 suburban this is in now that went to my old alt. I don't have this hooked up to anything now, but I assume it goes to my voltmeter in the insturment cluster. However after running motor the voltmeter is reading that the alt is charging without this wire hooked up. And showing 14 volts at battery while running.
I hope this is right, but how is the 89 truck instruments getting an input for the volt gauge??
thanks for any clarification.
Chris
Using a 4.8 2002 truck motor, with computer I just hooked the battery to the back post on the alt. and left the two wire plug from the 02 4.8 harness plugged into the alternator. I have a single brown wire from my original truck 89 suburban this is in now that went to my old alt. I don't have this hooked up to anything now, but I assume it goes to my voltmeter in the insturment cluster. However after running motor the voltmeter is reading that the alt is charging without this wire hooked up. And showing 14 volts at battery while running.
I hope this is right, but how is the 89 truck instruments getting an input for the volt gauge??
thanks for any clarification.
Chris
#79
Yes, that's correct. I don't know if you need the "D" to the battery or not. I guess it depends on what model year your alternator is for. Most of the alternators use what is called an "internal sense" for voltage control so there is no connection at D, but I see some of the newer models are going to an external sense and actually running "D" to the battery.
#80
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
I hooked up my 1999 Camaro alternator but the battery light will not light up. According to the schematic, the "B" terminal on the 4-prong connector will switch to ground and light up the battery light on the dash. I tested the B terminal on my alternator with the engine off and it is not grounded, which is why my dash light is not coming on. Why would the B terminal not be grounded when the alternator is hooked up but not turning?
The alternator is installed on the engine, and it is properly grounded. The heavy charging wire is hooked up to the positive battery post. The engine has run, but I have not hooked up the accessory belt yet so the alternator has never tried to charge. (The power steering lines are not finished, and I don't want to run the pump dry.) The alternator has sat for about 4 years, but was working when removed.
Why isn't that B terminal not grounded??
The alternator is installed on the engine, and it is properly grounded. The heavy charging wire is hooked up to the positive battery post. The engine has run, but I have not hooked up the accessory belt yet so the alternator has never tried to charge. (The power steering lines are not finished, and I don't want to run the pump dry.) The alternator has sat for about 4 years, but was working when removed.
Why isn't that B terminal not grounded??