TonyG

iTrader: (3)

Alright well this is about as far as I got today without going nuts. I currently have no RX7 harness, and I am wiring based off LS1 harness only.

I have a racepak which I will use for gauges, but I am trying to figure out the main power lines now. This battery/alternator disconnect is not making it easy. I am not using a fuse box, since I have a Moroso fused switch panel, in which I will run most stuff through.

I have 3 wires that from my LS1 harness and I am trying to make sure I got them all routed correctly before I start this mess.
1. Constant 12V (Orange)...the one I do know what to do with
2. 12V Ignition On (Pink)
3. Ignition start (purple)

Here is what I have come up with please let me know if this will work....

TonyG

iTrader: (3)

Anyone?

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

The way that is drawn, the alternator will continue to run stuff after you cut off the battery switch. The small terminals on the battery switch should be used disable the alternator, and all power should come off your distribution block. If you are using a stock type multi-wire alternator, you would use the small terminals to interrupt the Field wire on the alternator (goes to idiot light or PCM). If you are using a single-wire alternator, that would connect to one small terminal and the other would go to the battery.

TonyG

iTrader: (3)

I am using a 2002 LS1 engine with stock alternator. Not sure what that is considered.

How do I allow the battery switch to disable the alternator??

All my power does go through my distribution block, am I missing something?

I dont know what the field wire is, or if I am using a single wire alternator??

I really appreciate the help, this is all I need to get this bad boy started!!!

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

There should be two wires going to the '02 LS1 alternator. One is the big bolt-down terminal (B+), and the other is a plug-in connector with one wire. You're going to splice into that wire on the plug-in connector and basically put the small terminals of the battery disconnect in the middle of it. A diagram of what I'm thinking is attached.

Note that the purple starter wire in the LS1 harness is just a straight wire down from up top down to the starter--it doesn't connect to anything else inside the harness. You can either connect the top side it to your starter switch, or just bypass it and connect your switch directly to the starter.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

On the pcm harness, use connector C2, pin 15 to hook to terminal B on the alternator. That will make the alternator work correctly.

TonyG

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info guys, here is what I believe to be the correct diagram for my situation.
Please let me know if you see anything that needs corrected.
As for the purple ignition start, I wont connect it to anything on either side. Sounds like its not needed

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

i think hes taling about a kill switch.

the best way (or theory) so far is to run a kill switch, wire the alternator completely aside from the rest of the car, with a relay on it in the chassis harness going to the excitor wire on the alternator, directly off the kill switch so that when the switch is armed it interrupts ground, but also provides power to the excitor, when its off it kills power to the excitor, and interrupts ground. havent had a chance to redo my stuff yet. i just turn off my alternator if i need to kill it....ugh.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

TonyG, everything looks good in the second diagram

Mikespeed95, sounds like the same basic idea, your just using a relay to interrupt the alternator exciter wire instead or running the exciter wire all the way to the kill switch and then back to the alt.

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

after messing with it, as bass ackwards as it sounds it seems easier to run a relay. havent had time ot mess with it though.