Another Mustang LS2 swap in progress...
01-15-2008, 10:44 PM
#21
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I will probably need to get some spacers machined to offset the sway bar forward and down. Hopefully that will work. The motor goes in with the trans. attached and when I get it almost set I hook up the motor mounts. No big deal, I'm pretty good at it now...
Got the foot pedals and made a mount for the clutch master cylinder tonight. The pedals are from a '88 turbo coupe. Here are a few pictures of it out of the car. I still need to finish welding a few joints and rattle can the bare metal.
Got the foot pedals and made a mount for the clutch master cylinder tonight. The pedals are from a '88 turbo coupe. Here are a few pictures of it out of the car. I still need to finish welding a few joints and rattle can the bare metal.
02-07-2008, 10:12 PM
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Got a few more things done in the last few weeks. Got the motor and tranny in the car for the last time, got the pedals and clutch master mounted, ran -3 braided hose for the pressure and the remote bleeder, installed the alluminum flywheel and LS7 clutch, got the harness mostly in, and got the headers made up.
I used my ol MAC 351 swap headers and it wasn't too bad. On the passenger side all I had to do was chop off the flanges and weld on the LS1 style flange. On the driver side I had to move the two front tubes around a little and make the rear tubes a little longer. Not too hard and while I was at it I took off the ball-socket joint and put a V-band style flange. Here are some pics of the headers off the car and I'l get some with them installed later on.
Drivers side
Passenger side
I'm going to leave them uncoated until I can get the car running. I would hate to get them coated and then for them to leak somewhere where I welded or rub somewhere....
I used my ol MAC 351 swap headers and it wasn't too bad. On the passenger side all I had to do was chop off the flanges and weld on the LS1 style flange. On the driver side I had to move the two front tubes around a little and make the rear tubes a little longer. Not too hard and while I was at it I took off the ball-socket joint and put a V-band style flange. Here are some pics of the headers off the car and I'l get some with them installed later on.
Drivers side
Passenger side
I'm going to leave them uncoated until I can get the car running. I would hate to get them coated and then for them to leak somewhere where I welded or rub somewhere....
02-17-2008, 07:57 PM
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any more updated? i want to see how you get your tranny dipstick tube in 
that firewall clearance is so small there is no way you can use the one that bolts to the back of the head. i just ordered a lokar one. also, what did you decide on for the driveshaft?
that firewall clearance is so small there is no way you can use the one that bolts to the back of the head. i just ordered a lokar one. also, what did you decide on for the driveshaft?
02-17-2008, 08:28 PM
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It's an M6 car, but yeah getting to that top bolt is very tight. I dropped the motor in with the tranny attached though. I want this car to be as light in the front end as possible. No real big updates for now. I got the headers, intake, injectors, TB, wiring harness, starter, and PS pump, all on the car. I need to order some AN fittings for the fuel system and the new gauges. I might do some small stuff this week if I get a minute or two of free time. Although my 5 day old daughter may have something to say about it...
03-01-2008, 06:00 PM
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I have a 99 GT convertible that next winter i will be doing a LS1/t56 swap, what K-member and other parts will i need to get the motor/trans bolted up into the car and running? thanks
Last edited by 99Saleen; 03-01-2008 at 06:06 PM.
03-01-2008, 07:11 PM
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Any number of aftermarket K-members will work. Do some research if you plan on driving the car on the street much. A lot of guys get away with the light weight drag k-members, but they are really thin and can break. If you plan on going around corners there are really only two choices, Griggs and Maximum Motorsports. Everything is a copy of those two or they are for drag racing.
03-02-2008, 10:14 PM
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Got the gauges wired up and partially installed in the dash. I still need to route a "few" wires behind the dash, but I ran out of time today. I'm super crazy when it comes to making sure the wires are clean/neat. I used the MC machine dash plate and it turned out awsome. I had to trim a few places in the dash, but these look really good compared to some other I have seen in my opinion. No pictures of them fully installed yet...
Headers are on the car and I have the harness mostly plugged in. I just need to straighten up where everything is going to lay and install a few more small things. Won't be much longer...
Headers are on the car and I have the harness mostly plugged in. I just need to straighten up where everything is going to lay and install a few more small things. Won't be much longer...
03-06-2008, 11:11 AM
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what oil pan did you use and what harness did you use? did you have to change the reluctor wheel on the crank? was your engine a 24 or 54 tooth reluctor?
thanks chuck
thanks chuck
03-06-2008, 04:44 PM
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F-body oil pan and I used the new GM harness. The motor is a '07 LS2 with the 58 tooth reluctor wheel. Here's a link to another thread about the harness. Some people like to **** all over it because of whatever
, but it is the best deal out there for a total package. My other option was more than twice what I spent on the GM harness and the GM harness came with a few sensors.....https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/845442-another-harness-option.html