okis14

I’m not too sure where to put this but figure this would be a good start.

I can’t get the engine to go past 3000 rpm in or out of gear. It starts up fine, seems to idle low (650rpm) and drives fine as long as I don’t go past 3000 rpm.
I haven’t spoken to my tuner yet about this but I know he removed VATS and emission stuff.

Quick background:
Car is a 97 240sx with a 99 LS1. It made 440hp (past 3000 rpm) in December but hasn’t been turned on since as it was used as a prototype to make kits.
I picked the car up last week and started stripping all unneeded wires out. I removed just about every wire but did not touch the engine harness.
I did have to cut some wires going to the PCM as they went to the gauge cluster and fuel pump.

These are all the wires that are not connected to anything:
Red:
4 PPL AIR SELENOID CONTROL
13 WHT CRUISE CONTROL ENABLE SIGNAL
14 RED/BLK A/C REFRIG. PRESS. SENSOR SIGNAL
17 DRK GRN/WHT A/C REQUEST SIGNAL
30 DK BLU VDT FUEL ENABLE SIGNAL
33 DK BLU ENG. COOLING FAN RELAY 2 & 3 CONTROL
36 BRN AIR PUMP RELAY CONTROL
37 DK GRN CRUISE CONTROL INHIBIT
43 DK GRN/WHT A/C CLUTCH RELAY CONTROL
45 WHT EVAP CANISTER VENT VALVE CONTROL
46 BRN/WHT MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP CONTROL
50 DK GRN/WHT VEHICLE SPEED OUTPUT CIRCUIT
53 GRA/BLK SPARK RETARD SIGNAL
54 PPL FUEL LEVEL SENSOR SIGNAL
64 DK GRN FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR SIGNAL

Blue:
32 GRY CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION. SWITCH SIGNAL
58 DRK GRN SERIAL DATA

The water temp sensor behind my FAST intake isn’t connected but that just went to the cluster.

The only wires I’m not sure of are the VDT Fuel Enable Signal and the Spark Retard Signal (TCC??)

I checked my TPS voltage and the 5v wire is 5v. The blue wire is .8v closed and 4.68v opened. When I unplug the TPS while the car is idling I don’t notice anything but when I plug it back in the idle jumps from 650rpm to 900rpm. I still can’t go past 3000rpm.

My MAF has 12v and 4.89 volts with IGN on. When I unplug it when it is running the idle is very sporadic. I haven’t checked the voltage while running yet.
When I turn IGN on the fuel pump primes and it starts without an issues. Every coil is producing a signal.


I’m going to hook an ODB II scanner to it soon but would like any input you might have as this is driving me nuts.


Just FYI for others doing conversions regardless of you car.
It has two wiring attachments that are great.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=250407&page=3

okis14

Anyone? $50 for anyone that helps me solve my issue. Most likely I'll figure it out by the weekend, just waiting for my scanner to come in.

Midnightnova

iTrader: (1)

When you picked the car up last week as you said. Did it then go past 3000?

okis14

I never checked it, I just picked it up and put it on the trailer. When I brought it home I try not to turn it on or rev it as it is loud and I try to be a good neighbor.

It did go past 3000 in Jan when I tested it at the track but then it went back to the shop to finalize the kit and hasn't been turned on until last week.

The engine was put in and taken out probably 20 times while making the kit but they never wired it up until the last time. I am wondering if something got damaged but it's either got to be TPS or MAF. Maybe an O2 sensor but I don't see why it wouldn't let the engine past 3000rpm. I just don't know this engine well enough to say what it is.

The shop has my JET Programmer but I won't be able to pick it up till Saturday. I'm suppose to compete next Saturday lol. I don't think that is going to happen especially never have driven the car with the new kit.

Midnightnova

iTrader: (1)

It has got to be your tune!! Do I win the $50 prize yet? I drove my car with zero O2's no maf and was beating the crap out of it with the check enigne light on!!! It went clean past 3000 and hit the rev limiter which is about 5800. How does it sound at 3000 like it is bouncing off the rev limiter or what? Or running out of gas? Need some more info!! When you say in gear auto or standard? Good luck with getting it done by saturday.

jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

if its dbw it could be in limp mode???

FBJR

After 4 months and the fuel system being open you could just have bad gas now :o

FB

okis14

It can't be the tune. =P

It sounds exactly like it hits the rev limiter (6500) at 3000 rpm. It is a M6. Whether in nuetral or in gear I can't go past 3000rpm.

I am quiet sure it is in limp mode but without a scanner I can't verify it. I think I'll just go buy a read only cheapo one tomorrow. The mil light is on. I'm not sure if it is because one of the wires isn't hooked up or if a part is bad.

It can't be the gas. I put in new gas plus the gas wouldn't stop me at exactly 3000rpm. It would stumble, hesitate, etc.

I found a wiring diagram from here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=250407&page=3

So far I don't see anything that my car doesn't have hooked up that is required.
I'm leaning towards a bad MAF now. I'm going to clean it tomorrow and see what it does.

Keep them coming. I'm dead serious about the $50 but it can't be too generic.

Midnightnova

iTrader: (1)

It shouldn't be your maf but if you are throwing a code then maybe. Have you check to make sure all of the hook ups for the tranny are in? Was you check engine light on when you got the car back originallyfrom the shop prior to rewireing? Also do you have a 2 step?

Midnightnova

iTrader: (1)

One more thing if you know one some one with a ls1, ls style motor/ Truck or have a extra maf switch them out to see if that helps?

philntx

iTrader: (8)

Have you tried varying the speed at the throttle body instead of the gas pedal?

okis14

The MIL was on when I picked it up. This is one of the reasons I believe it isn't due to my wiring although I know the shop is going to say it.

All plugs are in the tranny but the clutch position swtich wire is cut. i believe this triggers the reverse swtich solenoid making it easier to put the car in reverse. According to all the wire diagrams it is just an optional wire.

I don't have 2 step. I'm not sure if the factory PCM can do that.

okis14

Wish I did know people. The closest person I know is 7 hours away =(
I did order another MAF even if it isn't the problem it's a good item to have an extra one just in case it takes a poop at the track.


I haven't but will try it. I may be missing something but I don't see how it will help?

Midnightnova

iTrader: (1)

It is proably your clutch position switch not tuned out or deleted out of the computer!! Thinks it still in nuetral won't go past 3000.

okis14

I didn't think about this but it shouldn't throw a mil right?

From what I've read about the switch is that it controls the reverse solenoid and is just an optional wire.

I guess it doesn't hurt to try to hook it up.

Midnightnova

iTrader: (1)

It might throw a code if not properly deleted but there could be muiltpy things throwing codes. Hook it up if you can so you can see what happens. Try to get a scanner is there a auto parts place near buy most of them have scanners. Keep us up dated.

okis14

Just got a scanner. Hopefully it's something easy.

okis14

Codes are in.
I got the Actron CP9175 scanner.

P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Position Sensor Circuit Low
P0412 Secondary Air injection System Valve
P0418 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Relay Control Circuit Bank 1
P0443 EVAP Purge Solenoid Valve 1 Control CKT
P0449 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent Solenoid Control Circuit
P0452 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0481 Cooling Fan Relay 2 Control Circuit
P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit


Some of these are right in line with the wires I don't have connected. The scanner did a freeze frame on P0452. I guess that is what is causing the problems? I'm going to crap myself if that is indeed the problem. I didn't hook up any fuel tank wires cause I'm going with a Fuel Cell soon. It's getting late so I'll have to check it tomorrow.

Midnightnova

iTrader: (1)

So its your tune. Do I win the $50 yet? If you have a Tuning program like Hp tuners you can delete these codes unless you plan to run all of your emissions stuff. Did you ever reconnect you clutch pedel sensor it has to be this ? Like i said earlier it still thinks it is in nuetral so it is limiting your RPM's to the "Tunes" preset limit. Those codes still would not limit your RPM's be there done that beat on my car with almost all the same codes on will rev freely. Is this a stock computer or has it been tune? you said tuner removed emissions, but it seem from what you are saying there are still there in the computer. Good luck hope you figure this out remeber I want all ones.

okis14

HAHA

The engine was tuned with the JET Programmer and it is the factory PCM. He's mailing it to me but I won't get it till tuesday.

I spoke with the tuner today, he said he drove the car and went over 3000rpm before I picked it up. I have no reason to not believe him and he said he will fix it if I bring the car to him. Only thing is he is 2 hours away and I don't have the time.

I'm going to wire up the fuel level stuff, the clutch switch sensor and see if I can figure a way to wire up the emission stuff. I have no idea wtf secondary air injection is.