frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, the spacer as well as six longer crank bolts.

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

A slight amount of progress... picked up a set of Corvette manifolds, not sure if they're LS1 or LS2 but they should work out better than the tubular shorties I previously mocked up...








Those UGLY cookie-cutter parts-book street rod cheesy radiator hoses came into use!! The duct tape is approx. where I want them to merge. That merge point is currently pretty close to the valve cover & makes the passenger side pipe have a tight-radius bend, I'll likely move it out more sideways & over the inner fender allowing that bend to be larger/smoother. But they do show how I want the passenger side pipe to wrap tightly wrap around front of the manifold then scoop back and sideways.

The crossover pipe should be able to fit between the block & subframe cross-member/control arm cross-shaft, behind the waterpump outlets. Marktainium suggested plugging & tapping hose outlets below or above for more crossover pipe clearance...










Garage is too small!!



My other ride/daily driver...

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

speaking of rad. hoses, i ordered a Chev SSR upper hose ($45!) from my local auto parts store to try. I'll be searching through their stock to find a lower hose (gotta love the coat hanger method!). I'm running an L92 pump and car intake, so my setup is a little different from yours, but I'll let you know how it turns out. It's going to be difficult to clear my intake elbow (I've got NO room between my TB and taurus fan, so I've gotta go under it), but I hope the SSR will work with a little modification.

PS - I used your idea of a custom PS hose. I need to find a hydraulics place like you've got! Had Parker Store make me a 17" long hi-pressure hose with 2 90° -6AN fittings, and the damn thing cost me $60!

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

big. huge. found a couple hoses that would work. The SSR upper hose works (albeit it contacts my MAF - not much I can do about it though), and I found a lower hose as well. Both need a little trimming (lower more than the upper/SSR).

Both are Gates. PNs are 23027 (SSR/upper) and 20230 (lower - not sure what it's from). I also got a hose connector w/ nipple from AZ TPI ($35!) to connect the x-over tube to the upper hose.

I've got some pics in post 111 of my build.

Marktainium

Make sure that your alignment is either done or very close before you build your pipes, the camber and caster adjustment may bring your upper arm in towards the motor. Learn from my mistakes, errr, experience I mean. (and those are '07 LS2 Corvette manifolds)

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Oh yea, I was going to rough-align it myself and then either get a bubble tool or take it to a place. I'm gonna also have to weight the front end down to take into account the sheetmetal/hood/rad/IC/fenders/turbo to get a more accurate 1st rough align.

hookemdevils22... holy COW! You struck the goldmine with those hoses, how much were each one?

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

Upper is $43.79, lower $21.79 thru Rock Auto. Upper is from a Chev SSR, and according to Rock Auto, the lower is actually an upper hose from an 04-07 CTSv. I actually paid much less for the CTSv hose because I've been setup with a commercial account at Checker O'Reilly's (I've spent so much there they decided to hook me up).

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

I paid $16 for my upper rad hose on ebay and it fits well

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

what hose was it? PN, brand, etc.? The reason I went with the rubber is I didn't want to tap into the water pump for the x-over. This makes it easier than with the universal flex hoses.

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

unknown name ebay seller - its rubber - for a 5.3 engine

MotorMads Denmark

Hello very nice car and very very nice job.... Im from Denmark (if you know were that is) i have been looking at your build for a time and wery suprised to se that i can find everything about building an ls engine in a nova. i bougth a 71 nova in sweden this sommer and im starting to tare it a part this winter for a total rebuild of the car.
im looking to buy an lq4 engine to build a twin turbo engine out of. im gonna use the VEMS for controlling my engine( www.vems.hu ) i hope i will get a
about 800 horse powers out of.

keep op the good the work and remember to take a lot of pictures.

a swedish guy name aartan have build an lq4 engine with standard cranskhaft and standard heads. . . .the engine were dyno to 1360 horsepower running on e85....take a look here if you can read swedish if not just look the pictures http://www.pure-pf.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24314

here is a video the car is called mega watt nova
http://video.google.com/videosearch?...d=0CBwQqwQwAw#

MotorMads Denmark

hokemdevils22... you to great job and great info

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

MotorMads Denmark... Thanks so much for the compliments! In comparison to a lot of the other builds around (in particular all the Nova threads that starting appearing after I started mine ) mine is not entirely unique, and the lack of progress is pretty depressing! But still, it's cool to hear that my experiences and write-up have helped others... come January I'll start cranking on her again, so expect updates!! And you should start a thread for your twin-turbo beast, or maybe you already have pics of it somewhere?!

MotorMads Denmark

i will try to find some pictures and try to opload them here.
i have ran in to my first problem the car the must have been in an accident before i bougth because the front of the car is twistet and im sure there is missing a part betwen the grill and the bumper but cant find it in any catalogs
the problem is that at chevy nova is very rare in denmark and theres not much more than 5 novas in denmark so i havent got an other car to look after... you can se in the picture thats there is missing a part

MotorMads Denmark

here is a better picture with som arrows pointing at the spot

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

you're missing the bumper filler. it's a $50 (depending on vendor) plastic piece. which reminds me - i broke mine when i took the front end off to do my build, so i need to order a new one.

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

This is the part you're looking for, it contours the bottom of the light buckets and the grill & fills the space between those and the top of the bumper.

Thin metal OEM-replacement filler panel...
http://www.classicindustries.com/con...rchCatalogId=2

Plastic or fiberglass replacement filler panel...
http://www.yearone.com/pco/6_0307/full.asp?page=313

MotorMads Denmark

Thanks guys i have just orderet it from classic industries first time i have orderet in my own name in USA.... normaly we use a firm who is helping os with this kind of things but they take f""""ng double price when the things in on my table home i Denmark.

here is a question fore you booth... what kind of engine manegement will you use on your cars ??? are you gonna use the original truck ecm and flash it ???
i have a lot experince with engine manegement and aftermarkets manegement
my job is at AUTODATA Scandinavien and im a Hotline man and solves car problems so if your missing a wiring diagram or other kind of stuff on europ cars just write me.

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

I'm back for 4 months in the same town as my car so time to get back at 'er. I've been lazy recently & over xmas break, so I just started mocking things up (barely) to have something to look at. The pictures are deceiving... DAMN this turbo's exhaust housing is huge, gonna have to re-think how to route the passenger side exhaust, but I think I can still raise the thing up another 2-3".

Marktainium

wow, doesn't seem like that long ago i was doing the same thing...is that a water cooled turbo? if so don't forget about all the plumbing for that too, along with oil supply and drain.