LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova
#1742
I'm going to hack up the model a bit and model/put my real rims on it, lower it to actual ride height, paint the surfaces some colors, and model up the underside quasi-accurately.. I'm kind of interested to run it thru the CFD module I installed in my work 3D modeling program.
However, first actual useful 3D modeling is going to be a mini air dam up front to increase the pressure drop across the radiator, but also help redirect some of the air doing under the car to make it go around the car (with a mini splitter maybe 1-2" extension).
However, first actual useful 3D modeling is going to be a mini air dam up front to increase the pressure drop across the radiator, but also help redirect some of the air doing under the car to make it go around the car (with a mini splitter maybe 1-2" extension).
#1743
Yes, FroJoe IS a engineer. How did you guess?
LOL
LOL
#1744
Hah! You got me, Jimbo.. guilty as charged. And this isn't going to help..
Not a real update, I guess, but finally spent some time cleaning up the 3D model I downloaded, and started making it look more realistic. Considering it's dark and rainy out right now and my car is nowhere near the garage to wrench in, this is the closest to "car work" that I'm gonna get for the next while.. but it's kindof awesome too..
Started adding surface colors and hiding all the surfaces I don't need. About ready to model the wheels and then start toying with air dam designs.
Not a real update, I guess, but finally spent some time cleaning up the 3D model I downloaded, and started making it look more realistic. Considering it's dark and rainy out right now and my car is nowhere near the garage to wrench in, this is the closest to "car work" that I'm gonna get for the next while.. but it's kindof awesome too..
Started adding surface colors and hiding all the surfaces I don't need. About ready to model the wheels and then start toying with air dam designs.
Last edited by frojoe; 03-03-2017 at 12:59 AM.
#1750
Does anyone have a suggestion for finding 321 stainless schedule 10 or 40 weld elbows?
I've tried (without success):
- Ace Race Parts
- McMaster-Carr
- Treadstone
- Vibrant
- Burns Stainless
- Columbia Mandrel Bends
- BMC Racing Products
- CX Racing
- eBay
Everything I've found is 304/304L, or sometimes 316. Since I'm looking for thicker wall (0.157-0.203"), maybe the lower heat capacity (and thus more prone to cracking) 304 would be fine for exhaust-type area...
I've tried (without success):
- Ace Race Parts
- McMaster-Carr
- Treadstone
- Vibrant
- Burns Stainless
- Columbia Mandrel Bends
- BMC Racing Products
- CX Racing
- eBay
Everything I've found is 304/304L, or sometimes 316. Since I'm looking for thicker wall (0.157-0.203"), maybe the lower heat capacity (and thus more prone to cracking) 304 would be fine for exhaust-type area...
#1751
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Might try these guys:
https://www.atlanticstainless.com/pr...tube-fittings/
Also these guys have 321 tubing in 16gauge. They might be able to make you some mandrel bends, but I'm not sure how tight of an elbow you need. http://www.stainlessheaders.com/tubing
https://www.atlanticstainless.com/pr...tube-fittings/
Also these guys have 321 tubing in 16gauge. They might be able to make you some mandrel bends, but I'm not sure how tight of an elbow you need. http://www.stainlessheaders.com/tubing
#1752
Thanks Clint. What's going on here is theorizing a thicker-wall hotside piping for a twins setup. I could in theory make everything out of fairly easily available 16ga ss321 tube (albeit expensive), but I would like to keep the wall thickness up there, at the minimum 0.100" for strength after welding and heat cycles. Which has lead me to Schedule 40 2.5" nominal weld elbows with a 2.469" ID, which would maintain ~constant exhaust velocity from the CTS-V manifold flange to a T3 turbo flange.. it's proving difficult to find SS321 2.5" elbows, however SS304 elbows are abundant and cheaper in 2.5" size. I could easily find SS321 2.0" elbows at either 2.245" ID (0.065" wall) or 2.157" ID (0.120" wall). The length of the welded piping brom manifold to turbo flange at whatever ID I choose should be under 12" total, hopefully under 10", so maybe a reduced ID wouldn't be bad for exhaust velocity vs restriction.
I read a thread on here discussing hotside "crossover pipe" sizing (however the theory is still valid for a twin turbo setup) that says 2.25" piping (so assuming 2.125" ID if 16ga used) is good to well over 1000hp without restriction, and keeps exhaust velocity up.
I read a thread on here discussing hotside "crossover pipe" sizing (however the theory is still valid for a twin turbo setup) that says 2.25" piping (so assuming 2.125" ID if 16ga used) is good to well over 1000hp without restriction, and keeps exhaust velocity up.
#1753
"twinter" project updates
The parts collecting has started! Sprung for the new-design Holley oil pan for a couple reasons:
- has clearance for a 4.0" stroke
- has two turbo drain ports in a better location than the single port I currently have on my heavily modified truck pan (current port comes very close to my modified drag link at full lock)
- oil filter machining is higher up (closer to the block) than my truck pan, allowing me to run a bigger filter than the current shorty filter I have on my chopped truck pan
- my current pan has always seeped a bit of oil out of the front pan modifications (the original cut/weld mods I had done by a guy to get the pan to clear the subframe, terrible work.. porous welds, always wanted to remedy)
Also got some CTS-V manifolds to start fresh. For tire and thus inner fender clearance, the turbos are going to have to be fairly far forward.. so I like that the CTS-V manifolds have the flange all the way at the end, to minimize the length of the hotside piping needed between the manifold and turbo, and thus cantilevering forces etc. I also like how tight the collector is to the head, as in how the collector doesn't angle out much.. will help in keeping the hotside piping tighter inboard.
In the near future it'll be time for the turbo decision. I'm between the following turbo's from Turbonetics and Precision. Both are BB, with the Precision being about $150 more than the Turbonetics, but with the Turbonetics coming with the turbine housing already ceramic coated black. That being said, I'm heavily leaning towards the Precision just due to my previous experience as well as reputation:
1) Turbonetics GTK-700
- compressor: 64mm billet HPC wheel, 4" inlet, 2.5" outlet
- turbine: 65mm, 0.85 A/R, T3 flange inlet, 3" v-band outlet
- ball bearing CHRA, brushed compressor cover, black ceramic coated turbine housing
2) Precision PT6466 CEA
- compressor: Gen2 64mm billet, 4" inlet, 2.5" outlet
- turbine: 66mm, 0.82 A/R, T3 flange inlet, 3" v-band outlet
- ball bearing CHRA, natural/raw compressor cover
Also looking at various tube/pipe inner areas for exhaust flow. I originally was comparing just diameters but a small change in diameter can change the area a fair amount, so I started calculating exhaust velocity.. to try and keep it as uniform from exhaust port to manifold collector to hotside piping to turbo flange.
From a bunch of research in the Forced Induction section, it seems 2.25" inner diameter isn't a hindrance until decently past 1000hp, and 2.5" ID is just overkill until about 1500hp. So I'm aiming to keep it as close to 2.25" ID as possible.
I'm thinking schedule 5 pipe from Ace Race Parts.. short and long weld elbows are reasonably priced. I was originally wanting thick wall, but on Ace Race Parts the correct ID stuff is only available in SS304 2.5", and even in SS304 it's crazy expensive because of how thick the wall is. I'm thinking of trying 0.065" wall schedule 5 2.0" SS321.. I'm hoping that with 321's favorable high-temp characteristics as well as keeping the hotside piping under 12" long, that the turbo weight being supported by only 0.065" wall should be okay.
It's also super handy to still have the old too-small blown up TC-76 turbo for mock up purposes...
- has clearance for a 4.0" stroke
- has two turbo drain ports in a better location than the single port I currently have on my heavily modified truck pan (current port comes very close to my modified drag link at full lock)
- oil filter machining is higher up (closer to the block) than my truck pan, allowing me to run a bigger filter than the current shorty filter I have on my chopped truck pan
- my current pan has always seeped a bit of oil out of the front pan modifications (the original cut/weld mods I had done by a guy to get the pan to clear the subframe, terrible work.. porous welds, always wanted to remedy)
Also got some CTS-V manifolds to start fresh. For tire and thus inner fender clearance, the turbos are going to have to be fairly far forward.. so I like that the CTS-V manifolds have the flange all the way at the end, to minimize the length of the hotside piping needed between the manifold and turbo, and thus cantilevering forces etc. I also like how tight the collector is to the head, as in how the collector doesn't angle out much.. will help in keeping the hotside piping tighter inboard.
In the near future it'll be time for the turbo decision. I'm between the following turbo's from Turbonetics and Precision. Both are BB, with the Precision being about $150 more than the Turbonetics, but with the Turbonetics coming with the turbine housing already ceramic coated black. That being said, I'm heavily leaning towards the Precision just due to my previous experience as well as reputation:
1) Turbonetics GTK-700
- compressor: 64mm billet HPC wheel, 4" inlet, 2.5" outlet
- turbine: 65mm, 0.85 A/R, T3 flange inlet, 3" v-band outlet
- ball bearing CHRA, brushed compressor cover, black ceramic coated turbine housing
2) Precision PT6466 CEA
- compressor: Gen2 64mm billet, 4" inlet, 2.5" outlet
- turbine: 66mm, 0.82 A/R, T3 flange inlet, 3" v-band outlet
- ball bearing CHRA, natural/raw compressor cover
Also looking at various tube/pipe inner areas for exhaust flow. I originally was comparing just diameters but a small change in diameter can change the area a fair amount, so I started calculating exhaust velocity.. to try and keep it as uniform from exhaust port to manifold collector to hotside piping to turbo flange.
From a bunch of research in the Forced Induction section, it seems 2.25" inner diameter isn't a hindrance until decently past 1000hp, and 2.5" ID is just overkill until about 1500hp. So I'm aiming to keep it as close to 2.25" ID as possible.
I'm thinking schedule 5 pipe from Ace Race Parts.. short and long weld elbows are reasonably priced. I was originally wanting thick wall, but on Ace Race Parts the correct ID stuff is only available in SS304 2.5", and even in SS304 it's crazy expensive because of how thick the wall is. I'm thinking of trying 0.065" wall schedule 5 2.0" SS321.. I'm hoping that with 321's favorable high-temp characteristics as well as keeping the hotside piping under 12" long, that the turbo weight being supported by only 0.065" wall should be okay.
It's also super handy to still have the old too-small blown up TC-76 turbo for mock up purposes...
Last edited by frojoe; 10-16-2017 at 01:55 PM.
#1755
I can't wait either! Been tossing around the idea of twins for a couple years, but I started doing research January this year and sometime mid-summer made up my mind on the subject.
Around that same time I took some pics of the car which I realize I forgot to add here, before I tucked it away to focus on other projects before getting serious with it. Pics include the new 275/40/18 Nitto NT-05 tires on the front, which are HOLY-F*** grippy...
Around that same time I took some pics of the car which I realize I forgot to add here, before I tucked it away to focus on other projects before getting serious with it. Pics include the new 275/40/18 Nitto NT-05 tires on the front, which are HOLY-F*** grippy...