Power Wagon may finally get some power
 

First off Wow this site is huge. I've been a member on a dozen or more forums, But this one is by far the largest, so I'm gonna go ahead and apologize for asking questions that have probably been repeated.

My truck is a 1952 Dodge M37. M37's are Military versions of the dodge power wagon.

Some design features of the M37:

3/4 ton 4x4 reg. cab Short bed
Convertible top with fold down winsheild
troop seats in the bed for 8 friends
Optional fording depth of 6 feet
24V waterproof (even the dist and sparkplugs) elec system
Oddball Dodge axles with 5 on 6 7/8" bolt pattern & Pass side diffs F&R
5.83:1 Axle ratio
Manual steering
Manual 4 wheel drum brakes on single circuit master
34" mil non-directional tires
Divorce mounted NP200 transfer case
4spd non synchro trans
6cyl flathead making about 80hp with a 2500rpm redline
Top speed 55 mph intermitently 45 sustained

My donor Vehicle:
2004 chevy express 2500 hit hard in the rear
4.8 & 4L80E
Complete Van Minus only body and Rad

My plan:
Build it as cheap as possible by using almost everything from the van
Keep original tansfer case and axles
Adapt entire van harness to M37
Keep stock steering and brakes for time being but likely upgrade later
Run 11.00x16 Michelin XZL's(about 39") on stock rims

Initial Questions:

The fuel system doesn't look like Some pics of what I've seen. No FP regulator on fuel rail, only fuel and evap line running on top of trans. Am I missing some thing here?

Evap sytem, Rear HO2 sensors, Etc. Can all be flashed out of PCM right? Do the associated wires need to be removed or is that just for simplicity?

Who would you guys recomend for tuning? Stock performance just delete emmisions and what not. Looking for reasonably priced but Not Some DA.

Thanks
Brett

I thought all 2500 express vans came with 6.0's

The guy I bought it from told me its a 4.8. How else would you tell?

Brett

take the vin off the van call your dealer, or when you spilt the motor from the trans there should 6.0 casting mark if not is should say 4.8/5.3

FYI automatic ban for no pics (not really...but seriously post pics !)

Sorry about the pic shortage I tried to get my wife to take some pics as I work, but she only takes pics of me, and then complains about the way the garage smells. I get some up soon.

Is the VIN on the chassis somewhere the body to this van is 2 hrs away?

I've pulled the motor from the van and started positioning it in the frame of the M37. the van exh manifolds were way to wide so I picked up some F body manifolds for a nice price. the pass side will work well, but I may have to run the driverside upside down, and relocate my coil packs. Is this a doable thing or am I in for a nightmare. The fitment of the dr side exh is because the engine needs to be offset about 2" to the drivers side in order to clear the front diff. the original motor was this way as well, so this also helps keep the trans output lined up with the t-case input.

Brett

This is definitely a cool swap. I have always admired the old Power Wagon especially the 50's models. Good luck!

OP, did yours also come with the 60,000lb rated PTO. It's been a while since we had ours, after all I was just a kid, but man that thing was a trooper. We put that thing through all kinds of hell and drug more vehicles out of colossal messes than I care to count. Great swap! I look forward to seeing pics.

vin is on the driver side door, glove box,left corner of the windshield

If you've got the motor, just look at the block. The displacement is molded into the block. Look at the rear of the block, under the passenger side head. This is a LOT easier to see if the flywheel is off, but you can peek behind the flywheel to see it too.

Likewise, at the front of the motor, you'll see it cast into the block right under the driver side cylinder head. This is more or less impossible to see unless all of the accessories are off of the front of the motor.

I just went out and looked. On the front of the block is cast 4.8/5.3 L. So I guess its pretty safe to assume its not a 6.0. Next step is to fab up some motor mounts. I have a plan in mind but I think work may keep me from it for a few days. BTW I found the fuel pressure regulator. It and the fuel filter were both part of the fuel pump module. Seems kinda dumb to have to drop the fuel tank just to change the only fuel filter.

Brett

I've got the motor in the frame already, and fabbed up some motor mounts. Next up is a trans crossmember, and moving the t-case back a bit.
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/mai...serialNumber=2
I had to offset the motor a bit to the driver side to clear the front diff with the oil pan
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/mai...serialNumber=2
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/mai...serialNumber=2
Here's a shot of my "free" motor mounts. They're made from the rear spring shackles, and some scrap steel I had lying around
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/mai...serialNumber=2
Here's how I attached the mounts to the frame. this is the pass side. the driver side is very similar, but with only one bolt on the bottom, which is actually the lower bolt for the steering box.
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/mai...serialNumber=2
There's not alot of room for exhaust on the driver side.
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/mai...serialNumber=2
I think I'm gonna run the exhaust up and over the steering column. Then under the cab roughly in the space taken up by the clutch pedal travel. I'll also be moving the coilpacks to below the manifolds to protect them from the heat.
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/mai...serialNumber=2
There's not a ton of space between the trans and front drive shaft, but it should work.
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/mai...serialNumber=2
This pic is with the trans pretty close to its final position. only minor changes will be needed to the Trans cover.
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/mai...serialNumber=2
I think I can move the t-case back about 6", and have everything work. That will give me an intermediate shaft about 7"-8" long. I'm hoping that will be long enough.


Brett