It's ALIVE! (sort of.. Error code help??)
 

FINALLY! after a year and a half, just recently started my '69 Camaro / LS1 swap.. :chug: After a brief delay with the DBW issue that has been resolved, the car starts and runs!! Initially the check engine light (from the DBW issue) went out and the car ran great! After running for a while (maybe 10 minutes) and getting up to temp, the check engine light came back on at some point and now shows a P0171 & P0174 code - lean cyl bank 1 and lean cyl bank 2.?? Now the car seems to surge at start up between 500 & 1000 rpm and even stalls a couple times before idiling out around 1000 rpm and running fairly smooth - usually on the third or fourth try.. Any idea what the problem might be? Thanks again for all your guys help! I'm getting very close!!! Jason

2 lean cylinder banks... Check your fuel pressure, bad pump, or clogged filter. And depending on where you got your engine/car, could be clogged injectors from dirty fuel rail or old lines.

Thanks for the quick response Gary.. I have a gauge on the billet rail and it reads about 50PSI.. Brand new flow matched 42lb SVO injectors, brand new vette filter/ regulator.. Pump is a brand new Walbro - Tanks, Inc in-tank set-up.. I guess that doesnt mean something couldn't be clogged?? Does the fuel pressure sound low??

If I am correct, it needs 58psi, not 50psi.

Are you running open headers?
The P0171/0174 codes may be due to the o2 sensors being too close to fresh air and signal the computer that it's lean. Also, check for any intake manifold leaks.

+1 on 57-58psi is needed.. Which TanksINC setup did you get?. They have them for different PSI ratings.. You might have gotten the LT1 setup which is requires 47psi.

Yes, I am running open headers..

This is the one I bought.. #PA-4 High Flow 250 Liter Per Hour Pump

Wouldn't be air in the system by chance would it?? If there was air trapped in the system, will it self bleed through the system once the car is running? I am running billet fuel rails w/ no schrader valve, so I had to crack a cap type fitting loose to bleed as much air as possible.. I got fuel at the cap, so I assumed I had most all the air out..??

Started her up tonight after work and it's actually reading 53-54 PSI on the gauge.. It's an autometer/ autogauge gauge, and I'm not sure of the accuracy..?? Would 4-5 PSI low cause my lean cyl bank error codes?

Also, I noticed the engine still surges a bit.. Say 900 to 1050 RPM.. Just enough to notice it's doing it.. I thought tonight I might un hook the return line and stuff her in a gas can to be sure the pump is building enough pressure to send fuel back to the tank.. If the pump checks out ok, I will probably try replacing the filter first. I just ordered one (wix 33737) from RockAuto today..

Somebody mentioned open headers might cause the lean codes, but at initial start-up it didnt throw that code.. It was a day or two later after I fixed the DBW problem and cleared those codes.. The delay in the code makes me think it might be the filter? Problem is, I dont exactly remember what the fuel pressure was when I first started it!

yes, because the pressure affects the flow rate of the injectors. if there isnt enough pressure, you arent going to push enough fuel.

Is the pressure supposed to drop back off to zero after the car sits a while, or should it maintain pressure? My guage goes back to zero after :15-:20 minutes after you shut the car off.. Pressure just slowly bleeds off..

seems like you have a leak somewhere. my 1994 GMC 1500 w/ 5.3/4l60e would hold pressure for weeks, it would normally drop to around 40, but it would stay there

Maybe in the tank/ pump somewhere then?? I'm not getting a drop of fuel at any of the connections that I can see? Could there be any other places you can think of that would bleed pressure off, that would not show an obvious sign of a leak? Bad injector o-ring maybe - all being new??

it may be liquid tight, but not air tight. Your injector(s) could be stuck open too. What are you using for your lines and connections? I used all dorman factory style connectors on the fuel rail, fuel filter, and used a factory ac delco in tank pump that was rated for the pressure i needed.

I doubt it is that big of a deal, you just need to get your running pressure up to 58-60psi.

using speed inc billet fuel rails
new 42lb svo injectors
russell 6an fittings - all NPT fittings have teflon tape
3/8 - braided/ rubber lines throughout
vette filter/ regulator w/ push-on fittings
tanks, inc in-tank PA-4 250gph pump/ tray in stock tank.

thought I had a blockage somewhere - maybe vette regulator or pump screen/ filter, but now with the pressure blead-off, Im not sure.. I was going to install new new vette regulator first.. everything is new, but maybe i missed some crud in the tank?? If that doesnt get it, I guess maybe pull the pump assembly from the tank and check it out..

Fuel pressure update
 

After tripple checking everything and replacing fuel filter, I finally found the culprit.. Brand new faulty auto meter pressure gauge! I never noticed when the car sat long enough for the pressure to bleed off, but it reads about -5 PSI rather than zero.. This caused my pressure to read about 53-54psi.. Also, this gauge does not have a post for the needle to rest against either, which I didnt care for... I replaced this gauge with a gauge from my air compressor just to confirm my hunch and bingo.. She hit 59-60 lbs.. I feel like an idiot now!! All that work and trouble shooting and the problem was staring me in the face.. Long story short - don't rule anything out!! Anyway, new gauge on the way.. Should be golden now.. Thanks for everyones replies..

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...n424/GAUGE.jpg

So your fuel pressure was actually good the whole time and wasn't the reason for the lean codes?
I still believe your open exhaust is causing the lean readings (o2 sensors too close to open air). I highly recommend you connect your exhaust to elimate it from being a culprit. Your going to have to connect the exhaust sometime anyway.

I belive you are right about the open air o2's.. Thinking back to when I first started the car without the DBW pedal hooked up, the car idled at 15-1600 RPM and had no error codes (other than the TPS errors becuase is wasnt plugged in.. Once the pedal was hooked up and I was able to rev the engine, i believe it sucked fresh air into the headers - past the o2's and that is when the check engine light came on and the lean cylinder code poped up.. I am getting the exhaust installed end of the week, so hopefully I can prove our theory! Thanks again. Jason.

need some videos :)