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-   -   LS carbed Fox Guys Less wires is better (https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/1401135-ls-carbed-fox-guys-less-wires-better.html)

johnyrrr 03-22-2011 01:41 PM

LS carbed Fox Guys Less wires is better
 
So this weekend I removed the stock 5.0 and T5 tranny now begins the transformation to start grafting in the LQ9/T56 I have waiting for its new home. It will be manual steering, manual windows and locks, manual brakes and even radio delete. I have the wires in the engine bay from the harness left over from the fuel injected 5.0 and just want to know what i need to leave to be able to run my headlights brake lights and interior lights. Can I remove the ecu under the dash completly or will it serve some function later? There is a huge bundle of wires going to it through a grommet in the engine bay on the passanger side. I just want the engine bay to be clean and will never be going back to fuel injection with this car, I am not great with the wiring aspect at all:eyes:. I bought a Haynes manual and it doesnt have any pics of all the many connectors and various plugs now in the engine bay:bang:. I just want to have the most basic of wiring in this car, kind of old school hotrod, clean and manual everything. Any fox guys have pics and explanation as to how to make this simple and clean for me?

mulletnotch 03-22-2011 02:02 PM

Only thing you need to leave underhood really is all the wiring for the headlights and turn signals. The wires through the firewall near the steering column are really the only thing I remember needing to stay in place... They will run to the starter solenoid from the column and need to remain in place. Other than that I don't remember anything else that "needs" to remain....

You will basically have a cable going from solenoid to the starter and a cable from alternator to the solenoid. If you're scared, leave the battery connected and pull things one at a time while checking to be sure the lights and interior power remain. (LOL I did this the first time I did a Fox swap)

ebk06 03-22-2011 04:23 PM

check out my build thread. you dont need a solenoid between the starter and battery or between the alternator and battery.

zipster 03-22-2011 04:25 PM

The wiring on the passenger side is for the EEC-4. The computer controls the engine, trans, fuel pump and emission related stuff. The drivers side has the harness for the lights, wipers, washer bottle, and the gauges, starter solenoid, power window/seat circuit breaker, horn, and cruise.

If you are just wiring up the basics, I would remove everything, then add the lights, horn, engine, and so on. Ford has a funky way of wiring things. Just an example, the gauges are grounded next to the starter solenoid on the drivers shock tower.

I am removing all the unnecessary wiring in my 93 Mustang now. And, rewiring it the way I want it. cleaning things up and making it simpler. Just a suggestion, do not cut anything, follow it and remove it from the connector once you know what its for. I use a battery charger for this, it will make the things work but not burn anything up while testing.

johnyrrr 03-22-2011 07:39 PM

cool i will be glad to get rid of all those wires going to the computer through that grommet. I get the ignition source to a solenoid to the starter but whats the deal with the solenoid to the alternator? Im thinking I better go to Borders to get a book on basic wiring?



Originally Posted by mulletnotch (Post 14674033)
Only thing you need to leave underhood really is all the wiring for the headlights and turn signals. The wires through the firewall near the steering column are really the only thing I remember needing to stay in place... They will run to the starter solenoid from the column and need to remain in place. Other than that I don't remember anything else that "needs" to remain....

You will basically have a cable going from solenoid to the starter and a cable from alternator to the solenoid. If you're scared, leave the battery connected and pull things one at a time while checking to be sure the lights and interior power remain. (LOL I did this the first time I did a Fox swap)


zipster 03-22-2011 08:41 PM

Ford ran the alternator wire to the positive wire on the starter solenoid. It does not go through the solenoid, just a place to bolt it to. Like I said, they did things weird.

zipster 03-22-2011 09:15 PM

I have a copy on the Ford schematics for a 93 Mustang. If you want it, pm me your email and I will send you a copy.

johnyrrr 03-23-2011 06:19 AM

Thanks zipster that would be great, or email me johnyrrr@yahoo.com
I like the idea about using a battery charger to check wires. I dont know if i want to remove all the wiring and start over, I think I would get myself in some trouble going that deep. Zip hows your beast coming along?


Originally Posted by zipster (Post 14676329)
I have a copy on the Ford schematics for a 93 Mustang. If you want it, pm me your email and I will send you a copy.


ebk06 03-23-2011 08:49 AM

Removing all the wires is fine if you are comfortable rewiring things or if you really want the car as lightweight as possible. If not theres really no need to remove anything other than the engine harness' and trans harness. Like I said its a very simple process to have power to the lights (interior and exterior), gauges, wipers, horn. I made my build thread as a how to for future reference for others. Search under my threads and find it. I even have on there how to wire up the reverse lights, aftermarket gauges, and a few other things. It will save you a big headache and lots of trouble.

I spent at least 40 hours looking over wiring diagrams and old threads figuring this stuff out. Most member I pm'ed for help never responded to me either so Im just trying to offer you help. If you dont want it good luck on the build.

johnyrrr 03-23-2011 09:29 AM

I will study your build sir Thanks for the heads up. I just remember looking a while back and yours was fuel injected and all those wires scared me off:D Let me revisit your build, Thanks!


Originally Posted by ebk06 (Post 14678074)
Removing all the wires is fine if you are comfortable rewiring things or if you really want the car as lightweight as possible. If not theres really no need to remove anything other than the engine harness' and trans harness. Like I said its a very simple process to have power to the lights (interior and exterior), gauges, wipers, horn. I made my build thread as a how to for future reference for others. Search under my threads and find it. I even have on there how to wire up the reverse lights, aftermarket gauges, and a few other things. It will save you a big headache and lots of trouble.

I spent at least 40 hours looking over wiring diagrams and old threads figuring this stuff out. Most member I pm'ed for help never responded to me either so Im just trying to offer you help. If you dont want it good luck on the build.


Phil Jacques 03-26-2011 08:13 AM

Interested to see where your shifter ends up through the factory console with the T56

johnyrrr 03-26-2011 08:20 AM

supposed to be about 4 inches back from what others have said.


Originally Posted by Phil Jacques (Post 14692680)
Interested to see where your shifter ends up through the factory console with the T56


ebk06 03-26-2011 10:50 AM


Originally Posted by johnyrrr (Post 14678213)
I will study your build sir Thanks for the heads up. I just remember looking a while back and yours was fuel injected and all those wires scared me off:D Let me revisit your build, Thanks!

The wiring thats existing on the fox will be the same for yours though. As far as lights, horns, etc. Honestly though if you go with fuel injection the wiring isnt nearly as bad as it looks. The most difficult part was getting the fans wired and the torque converter wired but i posted diagrams to make it very simple.

johnyrrr 03-26-2011 10:55 AM

ok Zipster pm sent for some help.


Originally Posted by zipster (Post 14676329)
I have a copy on the Ford schematics for a 93 Mustang. If you want it, pm me your email and I will send you a copy.



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