hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

The machine shop I had do the work on my LQ motor for the nova had a zero-mile LY6 the owner got from a local dealership. He was going to put it in his 99 Silverado, but it was too much hassle. He had trouble with the 6.0L he ended up putting in it. I've been helping/advising with his swap, so he offered to sell me the motor for 1/2 off retail. No TB, wiring/PCM, or accessories, but I don't think you can beat the price, especially when 100k LY6s are going for only slightly less (albeit with accessories). Plus VVT intrigues me, and the numbers you made with bolt-ons is exciting, to say the least. And of course it is destined for the goat.

I did the push-button thing when I installed the ISIS Multiplex kit in mine. Since it has a security built in, I am not running an ignition key at all. The ISIS kit allows me to control ignition + accessories (via a relay) with a quick push, and engine start with a push-and-hold. You'd have to come up with an accessory/ignition switch to do push-button, so I'm not sure it would be worth the effort.

The starter button is a 22mm momentary unit from Keep It Clean wiring, while the hazard is one their 19mm latching ones. I thought about picking up an s2000 switch, but liked the aluminum look better. They're expensive though -- about $60 each. The headlight and wiper switches were brushed aluminum ones I found on the internet (forgot where).

FYI - This is what my dash looked like when I bought it. Yes, that's the starter switch wiring with the hot-wire kit installed so I could start it!

Jimbo1367

Hookemdevils22,
So how hard was it to install the ISIS system? Worth the inverstment/effort?


thanks,
Jim

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

well, it's not a plug-and-play system, so it takes time (and $!) to get all the necessary electrical connectors, especially since most of mine were either gone or badly weathered.

One thing I didn't like is that it seems to be designed with a smaller vehicle in mind. I was limited to where I could put the modules, and couldn't do much to hide them (as shown under the dash here and here). The rear power module just barely made it to my trunk. This was due to the serial cable connecting the master and power cells being too short (meaning I couldn't just solder a new piece in). I also had to lengthen the power wires to the rear module.

That being said, the functionality is awesome, even though I haven't taken near as much advantage of it as I should be -- though I bought it planning to run power everything. And Jay was awesome at getting back to me with answers to all of my questions, and even helped me (via email) correct most of my screw-ups by providing his expertise and some of their tech data as needed.

I won't clog up this discussion any more, but PM/email me if you're interested and I can provide greater detail on my install. I took tons of notes and made myself plenty of guides so I troubleshoot later on if necessary. It's definitely not for the faint of heart, and nowhere near as easy as the american autowire kit I installed in the nova.

Tramminc

http://www.frankspontiacparts.com/us...s/gtoparts.htm

FatfreeGTO

Thanks for the info on the push button stuff. I would keep the ignition key and add the push button with a relay to the starter. I currently have a toggle switch that I have to use to start my car anyways. I'm still looking into it...

I don't mind you guys talking about the wiring in here, I like the thread being active and I'm going to be starting to do a complete rewire of my car pretty soon myself. Going to use a kit by a company called KwikWire.

It seems like you have a bunch of good photos of what you have done with your car, do you have a public link to your pictures for the GTO so I can check them out? Or do you have a thread anywhere detailing your build so far?

About your new engine, I have the harness that came with mine and I'm up in the air as to what to do with it... I may decide to sell it, but keeping it around for the spare wire and connectors might be worth more to me then I can get for it... It appears solid but I never ran the engine with it so I really don't know and would hate to sell it to someone and have there be a problem. Also have the LY6 intake, rails and injectors, no TB though. That I will probably sell. Let me know if you are interested.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

pics of my pseudo-build. There's a couple sub-albums (to the right of the linked page), but I haven't cleaned it up quite like the Nova album. I also haven't gotten around to making a build thread, though I will when/if I pull the body off the frame. There will be plenty of work to document, that's for sure!

Re: harness -- yes, I am interested. I modified the OEM LQ4/4L80e harness for the nova, so I have no problem with that. Incomplete wouldn't be a big issue. The engine's got the intake/rails/injectors, which I plan to replace with LS3 pieces.

I nearly went with a KwikWire kit, but in the end decided on the ISIS setup (complete opposite ends of the cost spectrum, I know). The Kwik kit seems like a great deal if you are familiar with rewiring a car. Like I said, I went AA with the nova, but I hadn't done a complete rewire prior. I would go Kwik knowing how to do it now though.

edit: question -- do you know the service number of the LY6 ECU?

FatfreeGTO

Thanks for the link, I will check it out! One thing I wish I had done when my frame was off is to box it in like the convertible frame. Looking back I should have done that, but then you really need to get your drivetrain in so your crossmember ends up in the right spot before having the frame powdercoated or painted. I know it doesn't add a whole lot of rigidity but its better then nothing. Oh yeah also grind down all the factory welding slag, I didn't do that either...

Mine came with the wiring for the 6l80/90e. There is an auction on Ebay for $125 which is around what I thought I would want for mine someday. If I could get $110 for mine I would cover the shipping.

Yeah that's the truth about price difference!! That's the thing with the Kwik kit, I want to have a complete list of every connector, switch, and additional relays that I need and order everything at one time from the various places that sell the parts. Once I start I don't want to have to wait a week for a plug or something dumb that I forgot about. Still trying to compile that list before I order anything.

What does ISIS do for a bulkhead connector? That's another thing I'm trying to find. If I can just do 1 in the location where the factory ones are I would be happy.

My ECU came from Speartech and I can check what is printed on it later today or tomorrow. In talking with him I got the impression that I may have an E38 from a vette... He says he supplies all new computers but I'm not sure that I believe it because there was the issue about the VIN in the computer coming up as an 08 Vette in the past.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

I plan to do some work to the frame when I pull the body off. Maybe not grind down the welding slag, but definitely add some structural rigidity. Ideally, I'd do cross-members with a through-frame exhaust setup like Art Morrison does. But that's just dreaming at this point -- I have a ways to go before I do anything of the sort.

ISIS doesn't have a bulkhead connector. I blocked it off with a flat piece of aluminum. Good call trying to get everything in advance. Word of advice, get plenty of extras, especially the terminals.

I searched and found a couple threads on the proper ECU. Member cam seems to know his stuff regarding VVT and a manual trans. It appears a specific e38 ECU isn't needed if you don't care about speedo output (as is the case with a Revolution GPS speedo).

And I think $110 for the harness is more than reasonable.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

Hey, what's the width between your new GTO seats? I just finished a 5-speed swap in mine, and I'm going to build a center console to cover the hole in the carpet from the 4-speed.

veltboy618

Those gauges are the S#!+!!!

FatfreeGTO

That is great news! The widest point is 9" and that was right at the side bolsters near the front of the seat. I am going to be building something as well. Just haven't gotten there yet.

Thanks!

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

Really? Wow, I only have 7 1/2" between the stock seats. That's good news.

FatfreeGTO

Interesting I never measured my old seats in there. I just measured these about 2 weeks ago and have since removed the seats. If I get them put back in anytime soon I will double check the measurements but I'm confident it was 9"

old66tiger

Where does one get 05 or newer GTO seats that are not all wrecked or really expensive?

FatfreeGTO

I found mine on ebay and had them shipped from FL to WI. I've been thinking of maybe selling them, might want to go in a different direction with my interior.... Interested? About your gauge question from the other site, the bezels are all interchangeable between the series of gauges.

Legacy- more old school look, no warning lights or shift lights

Revolution- more modern style, able to program warning and shift lights.

old66tiger

I may be interested. You are in WI? Me too. I am in Stoughton , just south of Madison. Where are you located?

FatfreeGTO

Oh that's cool small world, I'm just north of Milwaukee in Cedarburg. Can't wait for spring!

old66tiger

my car is at the body shop right now and i have a ton to do before spring. Cedarburg is a hop skip and a jump from me . I head to Fond du Lac to visit my folks quite often and wouldn't mind swinging by to check out your ride. Will send a PM with email and phone number.

FatfreeGTO

Yeah that's cool I don't care. Right now isn't the best time as its all torn back apart again and not currently able to be started but by spring she will be ready to roll again. I'm in need of serious body and paint work, hard to find someone who want to do it. Do you have a link to any pictures of your car?

old66tiger

Here is a link to the shop that is doing mine. Bob is doing a good job considering we ended up with 2 new quarters and 2 new fenders. My car was not rusty, just beat up..

http://tlc-restorations.com/current.html