Filling dry 03 LQ9 with coolant
#1
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Filling dry 03 LQ9 with coolant
This swap does not have a temp gauge. PCM has ECT connected.
The engine has a stock thermostat and appears closed from a look down the top connection. Heater connections are a short loop.
I want to be sure there are no air pockets, and avoid a mistake that will destroy my engine before I even run it 10 min.
If this were a GEN 1 SBC I would fill it and go, but I'm not as familiar with this type cooling system.
Thanks for your help.
The engine has a stock thermostat and appears closed from a look down the top connection. Heater connections are a short loop.
I want to be sure there are no air pockets, and avoid a mistake that will destroy my engine before I even run it 10 min.
If this were a GEN 1 SBC I would fill it and go, but I'm not as familiar with this type cooling system.
Thanks for your help.
#2
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If your engine has the coolant tubes on the front of the heads, I recommend cracking them open and filling until you get a steady stream of coolant from both heads. My LM7 kept overheating until I did this.
#3
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I noticed there is a cross over tube connecting the cylinder heads, there is a tee on the driver side connection with a hose connected to it.
Do the bolts holding the cross over tube to the cylinder heads, block an air bleed unless unscrewed a little bit?
I'm using a old school radiator with a 15 psi cap, I'm thinking the rubber hose connected to this tee maybe should be connected to the overflow stem at the cap?
Do the bolts holding the cross over tube to the cylinder heads, block an air bleed unless unscrewed a little bit?
I'm using a old school radiator with a 15 psi cap, I'm thinking the rubber hose connected to this tee maybe should be connected to the overflow stem at the cap?
#5
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The crossover tube is a steam vent. It's under pressure. The overflow stem at the radiator cap is intended to feed a reservior, not under pressure.
You can connect the steam vent line to an added fitting on the water pump or radiator hose.
I filled mine by leaving the radiator cap off, making sure the front of the car (radiator) was high, and just kept topping off the radiator after it started.
You can connect the steam vent line to an added fitting on the water pump or radiator hose.
I filled mine by leaving the radiator cap off, making sure the front of the car (radiator) was high, and just kept topping off the radiator after it started.
#6
Good to know
The crossover tube is a steam vent. It's under pressure. The overflow stem at the radiator cap is intended to feed a reservior, not under pressure.
You can connect the steam vent line to an added fitting on the water pump or radiator hose.
I filled mine by leaving the radiator cap off, making sure the front of the car (radiator) was high, and just kept topping off the radiator after it started.
You can connect the steam vent line to an added fitting on the water pump or radiator hose.
I filled mine by leaving the radiator cap off, making sure the front of the car (radiator) was high, and just kept topping off the radiator after it started.
#7
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The crossover tube is a steam vent. It's under pressure. The overflow stem at the radiator cap is intended to feed a reservior, not under pressure.
You can connect the steam vent line to an added fitting on the water pump or radiator hose.
I filled mine by leaving the radiator cap off, making sure the front of the car (radiator) was high, and just kept topping off the radiator after it started.
You can connect the steam vent line to an added fitting on the water pump or radiator hose.
I filled mine by leaving the radiator cap off, making sure the front of the car (radiator) was high, and just kept topping off the radiator after it started.
As for filling, I usually fill the radiator almost all the way up, then take the upper radiator hose off at the radiator and hold it up and fill through it until it's full, then put the hose back on. It's a little messy unless you are quick, but I've never had a problem doing it this way.
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#9
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Yes they are right don't listen to me. There's is a nice fitting in the help section to run it into the smaller heater hose. Glad I put my previous comment or I'd never even think about it.
#11
#12
This part allows installing the steam vent tube into the upper radiator hose, it allows checking if the air is out of the system, and it has a petcock to allow purging air out of the system.
I created this part after a number of people who bought our radiator kits for LSx swaps complained about cooling problems, which were caused by air in the system.
I created this part after a number of people who bought our radiator kits for LSx swaps complained about cooling problems, which were caused by air in the system.
#13
If you want to fill the system in 5 minutes with NO air pockets just buy one of these...
Coolant fill tool
And as a side note, this is the downside of not running an expansion tank with the head vents run back to it. It gives the air a place to collect when run correctly, so if you do get air then it will end up in the tank instead of in the engine.
Just my .02
Mark
Coolant fill tool
And as a side note, this is the downside of not running an expansion tank with the head vents run back to it. It gives the air a place to collect when run correctly, so if you do get air then it will end up in the tank instead of in the engine.
Just my .02
Mark
#14
Old School Heavy
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If you want to fill the system in 5 minutes with NO air pockets just buy one of these...
Coolant fill tool
And as a side note, this is the downside of not running an expansion tank with the head vents run back to it. It gives the air a place to collect when run correctly, so if you do get air then it will end up in the tank instead of in the engine.
Just my .02
Mark
Coolant fill tool
And as a side note, this is the downside of not running an expansion tank with the head vents run back to it. It gives the air a place to collect when run correctly, so if you do get air then it will end up in the tank instead of in the engine.
Just my .02
Mark
#15
$100 to not have to deal with any of those issues? Doesnt have to be a dry engine, i use it anytime i drain coolant! I guess its all about what your after, i dont want to have to fight air in the system so 5 mins vs 30 minutes at the best!!!!
#19
I think it may have to do with the fact i spend $500+ on tools a month, but even if i didnt this tool is awesome... Now if it was a "Porsche" thing i would be pushing my $500 hydraulic flaring tool!!! To each there own!!!
#20
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
A good friend of mine had a 944 that had some kind of head problem. I think it bent some valves. The car was in really great shape and he hung onto it for the longest time talking about a motor swap. I don't know whatever came of it, but he sure did love that car and he grew up a Mopar guy. So, that something about how well it must have drove.
PS. I would have loved that hydraulic flaring tool when I was making all new steel fuel and transmission lines.
PS. I would have loved that hydraulic flaring tool when I was making all new steel fuel and transmission lines.