Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I previously had an LT1/T56 in my cutlass; when I try to install my driveshaft its just a bit too long to clear whatever goes into the rear axle (don't know name). It looks like the rear of the tranny is about a 1/2 inch further back than before--but I'm not exactly sure. I'd like to take as little off as possible, but don't want to have to take it back to pay for a second shortening. Given this pic, is 1/2 inch enough? How much yoke do you really need inside the tranny--i.e., would it hurt to go 1" just to be safe. 2nd pic has the yoke as far in as it will go. Thoughts?

99VetteFRC

Unbolt the motor mounts and trans crossmember and move the whole thin forward an 1". that really shouldn't be too hard.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I'm hoping that is an April fool's comment!

99VetteFRC

LOL, it wasn't, but if you don't wanna pay to have the drive shaft shortened that is the only way. I think I would pay, can't be but $100 for a shorten and balance. I would go 1.25" at least.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

ooh. Now I see. Yes, I'm going to pay to have it shortened, but I'd like to only do it once. So if I take off only 1/2" and its not enough, then I have to pay again. Quote in town is $65 for steel driveshafts. I'm worried that 1.25" would leave too much of the yoke out. I'm thinking about .75".

67Skylark

The local shop cut my so I would have an inch of yoke left hanging out for movement, 3/4" sould be fine.

superdave84

According to the book "GM LS-Series Engines: The Complete Swap Guide", moving your drivetrain 1/2 inch in either direction should be fine without changing the driveshaft length. Any more than that, and you need to change it.

*on page 171

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Every time I do one. The shop wants me to measure with the yoke out 1 inch. Then measure from center to center of the -u joins with the car on the ground at static height. But other will want a bit more.
BC