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I know the cool kids use that pushlock hose on their wastegates like that, but the one time I got fancy and tried it it melted and cost me a motor... Taught me to not try to be fancy! Lol
Thanks for the heads up, I'll watch them close. Was reading about people having similar issues on YB.
Not sure how it would melt in the locations I have it. Definitely can't have them close to the hotside. I've run this stuff in the engine bay of my cars for years with out issue on WG's as well. I run low enough spring pressure even if the lower line were to melt it shouldn't take my engine out. With the lines pulled off last year I made 20lbs or so. Had to apply pressure to the top ports to get the boost higher.
Mine melted right next to the pushlock fitting that screwed into the boost reference hole in the compressor housing. I still think it was a strange thing, but if it's a topic of conversation on YB, then maybe it's not as rare as I thought. It's still a cool setup!
After trying 5 sets of aftermarket wheels with no luck I went with the mazda RX7 16x4.5" spare rim up front. Was the only rim I could find that cleared the new brakes and didnt' stick out past the fender... Plasti-dipped the rear wheels as well. The blacked out wheels are growing on me.
Got it out to the track... Spun all day. Leaving on 2 pounds it pulls the wheels. When the wheel sets back down it pulls hard left. Builds boost really fast. Leaving at 2500rpm off the foot brake I spin all over. Need to get a boost controller and or monster tires. Think I'll try the some 31x14" slicks first... Then play with boost control. Nothing broke and drove all over town with a chute on the back... felt pretty cool!
Best of an 9.90 @148.8 at 14lbs creeping to 16 12* timing. Trapped a 144 ar 12.5lbs.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 03-16-2015 at 11:44 AM.
Got the double adjustable rear shocks in. Didn't make much of a difference. Tried 8 clicks on the compression, 2 extension. Made no noticeable difference. I did notice I get zero chassis separation and tiny bit of squat. Which is pretty much unheard of with a ladder bar setup.
Went to the import event this sunday. Only got 3 runs in. Never seen the track so crowded. Spin 100 ft out as usual. But it looks like the car kicks right now. So I added half the preload back on the RH bar. I'll give it another shot next weekend I hope. Went 9.4 @ 150. 14.5lbs creeps to 16.5 or so...
can see the oddball kick right about 100 ft out here.
Got a few runs in this weekend and I think I'm getting closer on the launch issues.
I went ahead and installed new factory gas struts up front and installed some adjustable camber plates... I flipped them and used them for caster adjustment instead. Trying to help stability at high speeds. It's a bastard turn now but I think it helped up top. Feels much more stable.
The car has never sat level. Passenger side has always been lower than the driver side. I used the coil over spring to "adjust" this. Seems to have helped alot. Car stayed straight all day.
When I first bought the car the rear ride height was a good 2" higher than it is now. I believe I screwed up the CG of the car by lowering the rear too much. I didn't like the excessive raked out look with the back end jacked way up in the air. I went ahead an raised the rear shock perches up to the original height when I bought the car.
Looks goofy as hell, but seems to have made a big difference. My first run I managed a 1.32 60. Leaving at 2700 on the 2-step under 1psi of boost. Boost builds FAST on this setup. Unfortunatly whoever built this chassis originally "fudged" the forward ladder bar mounts. So I can't raise them any higher than they are now. Which mean's i'm stuck at this goofy rake if I want the car to hook.
As the street car event went on the track conditions got worse and worse and so did my 60' times.
Think my camera man had a little too much to drink, but if you slow the video way down you can see the launch pretty well. It carries that driverside tire pretty far... Still doesn't have good separation though. Think I need to hit the tire harder.
Have you tried corner balancing it? IE weighing each corner and setting pre-load based on that?
I wonder if the corner weights are (or were) way off?
It did seem to hook well in that video. The first half was real clear before he started aim at the sky
I think that front is coming up for a few reasons, including the fact that you have a light car and have what looks like a 30" tire out back. Looks like you could have left on more power but you would know that better than anyone.
nice 60 foot. The driver side shock looks like it is mounted lower then the pass side or is that just the picture? Also do you have a anti roll bar?
Aft shock mounts are the same height just an awkward pic angle. Also just read you want the rear springs compressed 2/3’s at ride height? That way they assist in planting the tire on the launch. If this is the case, I'd need to raise the spring mounts considerably on both sides and lower the shock mounts. Or go with a lighter rear spring so it compresses more. (currently 125lb springs in back).
I’m sure an anti-roll bar would help, but I’m a firm believe they aren’t needed assuming you have the chassis setup properly on a ladder bar car. I cut out the big horizontal bar/core-support to make room for the radiator/intercooler. I think that’s a big source of my body twist. When the car was NA with 4.56 gears it lifted the front perfectly even riding the wheelie bars. (pic below)
Originally Posted by DW SD
Have you tried corner balancing it? IE weighing each corner and setting pre-load based on that?
I wonder if the corner weights are (or were) way off?
It did seem to hook well in that video. The first half was real clear before he started aim at the sky
Doug
I’ve never had this car on corner scales. I’d love to, just a time/money thing. Right after the 1.3x run I tried upping the 2-step to 3200 and launching at 5-6lbs. It immediately wadded the tires up. (12psi in tire)… I then dropped pressure down to 10 and tried again… same result. Also 12psi seemed to work better than 10psi leaving at 2700. I can’t tell if the suspension is planting the tires too hard and the body is just not responding? I’d assume I’d see some serious body separation if I was hitting the tire too hard. I made a rig to put on the chute mount with a video cam. Hope to see exactly what the suspension is doing next time out.
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
I think that front is coming up for a few reasons, including the fact that you have a light car and have what looks like a 30" tire out back. Looks like you could have left on more power but you would know that better than anyone.
Running a 29x12 slick of unknown age. This could also be an issue. These tires came with the car when I bought it 3 years ago. No idea how old they are, but they are still soft and show no signs of cracking. Assuming I had the suspension working properly I see no reason I couldn't be cutting 1.2x 60's. I have a new set of 295/55 drag radials too, but the slicks always worked a little better in the past. If the suspension appears to be working properly, I'll probably end up with some new slicks.
I'm surprised you could be running 3 year old slicks, how many runs do you have on them?
If your local track is just average for track prep, (cap'n obvious here) slicks will be more consistent.
They must be one of the harder compound Hoosiers. They seem to be everlasting. I drive on the street (highway) with them all the time as well. Still have 2/32 or so of "depth hole" too! I'm guessing they were new when I bought the car. I ran the drag radials alot the first year (got some 1.3x 60's on them too) Must have 200+ pass's by now.
Put the old slicks to good use tonight! New personal best ET, 8.88 @ 156! 19lbs creeping to 21 in the upper RPM. 12* of timing. Still doesn't hit the tires like I think it should. I'll have several videos up shortly. Logging back pressure now as well. Seeing 2.3:1 at peak boost. I think it's time for a bigger exh. wheel!
With the *** end jacked way up I'm getting body/tire separation now at least. Looks like the rear suspension might be hitting it's travel limit. May need to drop it down a bit and stiffen up the compression on the shocks.
do you know where the instant center is? and squat / anti squat geometry?
I have an excel spreadsheet that you could use to calculate that stuff, if you don't already have it.
send me a PM with your address and I'll mail it. I used it to design and build a triangulated 4-link in my truck.
03-01-2015, 12:19 PM
