S2000 Build - LS1 - T56 - 8.8 - Turbo
03-07-2013, 02:16 PM
#21
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Not to be a Debby Downer, but that rack sucks. That's what I have in my car and am looking to go to something better. It has a short turn radius even when positioned and adjusted right.
All else looks great! Good to see another LS1 S2k, and another boosted one at that!
All else looks great! Good to see another LS1 S2k, and another boosted one at that!
03-07-2013, 09:56 PM
#23
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Im not sure which rack Owl put in your car, Flaming River makes two different 79-93 Mustang racks. There arent too many other small rack that will fit in the area needed. Most factory racks are fairly large and would have to sit too far forward for my liking.
03-08-2013, 08:16 AM
#24
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Import Muscle makes a relocation for it that's works great. I've completely redone the steering on this for the third time on the car, so it turns correctly but its still not the best it could be.
03-08-2013, 01:30 PM
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I dont like the feeling of the stock steering in the S2K, and in order to keep the stock EPS you need to keep the stock cluster. Since I dont like the stock steering and wanted aftermarket gauges it only made since to swap out everything.
03-09-2013, 09:55 PM
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Decided to redo my turbo location and manifolds. Ill be using flipped truck manifolds (pictured is modded C5 manifolds but they just dont work out) The manifolds will be forward and down.
03-09-2013, 09:57 PM
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Got around to cleaning up the driver side of the bay, redid my fuel line so its a little cleaner and out of the way.
Made a little progress on the cluster while it was too cold out to work on the car. Using Autometer Digital Tach/Speedo combo, Fuel Level, and Water Temp. AEM Boost and AFR gauges. Im designing a cluster similar to a stock cluster (will have plexiglass seperating me from the gauges) and im thinking about boxing the gauges in to keep the dust out. The Carbon Fiber is 3M Di-Noc, this stuff is awesome. Compared it to some of my real carbon pieces and it actually matches up with identical weave size. Just has the "dry carbon" look to it.
Decided to go with Flex-a-lite fans/shroud since they already made one in the size I needed (core = 27.5x16)
Aeromotive FPR will get mounted in the trunk near fuel cell and Aeromotive Pump for ease of plumbing.
Made a little progress on the cluster while it was too cold out to work on the car. Using Autometer Digital Tach/Speedo combo, Fuel Level, and Water Temp. AEM Boost and AFR gauges. Im designing a cluster similar to a stock cluster (will have plexiglass seperating me from the gauges) and im thinking about boxing the gauges in to keep the dust out. The Carbon Fiber is 3M Di-Noc, this stuff is awesome. Compared it to some of my real carbon pieces and it actually matches up with identical weave size. Just has the "dry carbon" look to it.
Decided to go with Flex-a-lite fans/shroud since they already made one in the size I needed (core = 27.5x16)
Aeromotive FPR will get mounted in the trunk near fuel cell and Aeromotive Pump for ease of plumbing.
03-10-2013, 08:28 AM
#28
Just some thoughts on the steering rack. The bulged out portion of the oem rack I believe is a damper. My old Fiero had a manual rack with a damper (think sideways shock absorber) that was worn out. When you would back up while making a turn and hit the brakes, the steering wheel would violently whip spin to opposite lock if you weren't holding on to it or holding it lightly. It caused quite a few jammed thumbs/fingers before I wised up and replaced it. You wouldn't notice it driving, but it eliminated the free spinning motion of the wheel.
Also your rack length will play a role on bump steer. Ideally you'd like the inner tie rod ends to be in the same plane (or in between) your pivots for the upper and lower control arms. If the rack body is longer, (shorter tie rod ends) you'll get toe in on suspension compression. If the rack body is shorter (longer tie rod ends, relative to the oem rack) you'll end up with toe out on compression. Both lead to a car that is not fun to drive and can be downright dangerous.
The S2000 is a superb handling car, so I would try to mimic the rack length and location as close as possible to preserve it.
Also your rack length will play a role on bump steer. Ideally you'd like the inner tie rod ends to be in the same plane (or in between) your pivots for the upper and lower control arms. If the rack body is longer, (shorter tie rod ends) you'll get toe in on suspension compression. If the rack body is shorter (longer tie rod ends, relative to the oem rack) you'll end up with toe out on compression. Both lead to a car that is not fun to drive and can be downright dangerous.
The S2000 is a superb handling car, so I would try to mimic the rack length and location as close as possible to preserve it.
03-10-2013, 11:10 AM
#29
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Just some thoughts on the steering rack. The bulged out portion of the oem rack I believe is a damper. My old Fiero had a manual rack with a damper (think sideways shock absorber) that was worn out. When you would back up while making a turn and hit the brakes, the steering wheel would violently whip spin to opposite lock if you weren't holding on to it or holding it lightly. It caused quite a few jammed thumbs/fingers before I wised up and replaced it. You wouldn't notice it driving, but it eliminated the free spinning motion of the wheel.
Also your rack length will play a role on bump steer. Ideally you'd like the inner tie rod ends to be in the same plane (or in between) your pivots for the upper and lower control arms. If the rack body is longer, (shorter tie rod ends) you'll get toe in on suspension compression. If the rack body is shorter (longer tie rod ends, relative to the oem rack) you'll end up with toe out on compression. Both lead to a car that is not fun to drive and can be downright dangerous.
The S2000 is a superb handling car, so I would try to mimic the rack length and location as close as possible to preserve it.
Also your rack length will play a role on bump steer. Ideally you'd like the inner tie rod ends to be in the same plane (or in between) your pivots for the upper and lower control arms. If the rack body is longer, (shorter tie rod ends) you'll get toe in on suspension compression. If the rack body is shorter (longer tie rod ends, relative to the oem rack) you'll end up with toe out on compression. Both lead to a car that is not fun to drive and can be downright dangerous.
The S2000 is a superb handling car, so I would try to mimic the rack length and location as close as possible to preserve it.
03-10-2013, 08:45 PM
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03-10-2013, 08:50 PM
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Got my Aeromotive FPR mounted today and added some sound deadening to the trunk. Hopefully the Aeromotive A1000 will be a little less noticeable inside the car now that I added the sound deadening right above it.
Last edited by 1SIKS2K; 03-10-2013 at 08:57 PM.
03-10-2013, 09:47 PM
#33
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sorry, rx7 (fd). rx8 has the same electric rack as s2k.
HT: What was up with the steering rack?
GC: Originally, the car came with a system called EPS, Electric Power Steering, which is speed sensitive. At higher mph when you throw the steering wheel the system actually slows the wheel down, so we pulled it off and used a hydraulic power steering system. We measured the rack from a newer RX-7 and it was almost a direct bolt-in replacement. The RX-7 rack also has more steering angle and no speed changes in steering response.
GC: Originally, the car came with a system called EPS, Electric Power Steering, which is speed sensitive. At higher mph when you throw the steering wheel the system actually slows the wheel down, so we pulled it off and used a hydraulic power steering system. We measured the rack from a newer RX-7 and it was almost a direct bolt-in replacement. The RX-7 rack also has more steering angle and no speed changes in steering response.
03-11-2013, 12:59 PM
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People do use the RX7 rack occasionally. My main reason for going with the Mustang rack was availability, pricing, and the fact that I can just go to an autozone for rebuild parts if I were to ever need to replace something on it.
03-15-2013, 01:25 PM
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After lots of trial and error and test fitting multiple ways I finally have my radiator and intercooler mocked up the way I want them. Just need to get the brackets welded on. V-mount setup just wouldnt physically work out, and the radiator is too tall to stand up straight in front of the core support where I wanted it.
With this setup I may be able to keep the stock hood latch with some trimming of the latch assembly, but Ill most likely be going with Aerocatch hood pins.
There is plenty of room for the upper radiator hose, ill be using AN fittings and hose.
With this setup I may be able to keep the stock hood latch with some trimming of the latch assembly, but Ill most likely be going with Aerocatch hood pins.
There is plenty of room for the upper radiator hose, ill be using AN fittings and hose.
03-21-2013, 11:16 AM
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Ditched my old tubular turbo manifolds and made some truck manifolds. I like these much better because its a more compact package, easier to get to spark plugs, and much cleaner.
