JonQdiesel

Have this going on chevelles.com forum but I am at the point where I need some help from people on this forum to help me finish building my car. I intend on taking this car to scca events mainly the solo races. I have just been to my first race as a spectator a few weeks ago and man it looks like it is a blast to do. So this is what I am aiming for also for a little street time as well not really concerned with the drag strip.
I am at the point where I have now installed the Engine 5.3 LM7 and T56 Trans having a hard time figuring out the wiring for these harnesses.
Here you will see some sloppy mechanics as well for this is my first car build ever. Here goes.




The Candidate.



Chevelle 300 POST car.

























My buddy helping me lay down z-chrome sealer














Running staggered ZR1 Corvette Wheels 18" Front 19" rear
315's in the back with 285's in the front.


Painted them


Took the rails off still have not had a chance to re weld them back up yet.




Pic of the new rear brakes also installed Rear coilovers I dont think i have a pic of that. Sits a lot lower now.





GT45 Turbo


Feels bigger than my HX40 on my cummins lol

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Great start. Is the rear axle still c-clip? If so, you might want to rethink the fixed mount caliper and consider a floating caliper. The c-clip axles move from side to side quite a bit and you will get a lot of pad knock back with fixed calipers.

Andrew

JonQdiesel

Im using a 411 PCM from a 2002 astro van and a 2000 Silverauto Harness for 5.3 I cant even find an OIL pressure sensor plug on this harness at all. I have a similar connection but for what I can see possibly goes to the throttle body. Is it me or do these connections look exactly the same.

My problem already is the wiring. I am having a damn time trying to figure this stuff out. I seem to look up the coding on the wires and they seem like greek to me.
No clue what most of these are. looks like a 2 pin connector.

Suspect #2


Another one no clue

I cant even find a place for this connector....



.. re-Occurring theme here.
MAP Sensor perpahps.. I dont know if it is or not I also had just purchased a 3 bar map off ebay and it has three diffrerent colors I beleive a red / black / white colors and I have no clue which goes where to the new pigtail.

If this is even a friggen map sensor plug I have no clue what I am doing.
I have had success so far with changing the injector clip pigtails out I have recently installed Sieman Deka 80lbs

I have this one now installed to the TB but i dont know if it goes here or the Oil pressure sensor plug.




And another..

JonQdiesel

ProjectGatTago I was not aware of that. Will installing C clip eliminators help I planned on going with a 12 bolt very shortly in the future as long as my funds will support it. I need these brakes to work lol spent too much money on them as it is.

JonQdiesel

Also my alternator connector has only 1 brown wire?? does this even sound remotely possible?
If I am on the wrong track please help me with some guidance. This wiring nightmare is making me want to buy a standalone harness and I dont even have the money. And giving me grey hairs at the same time due to major fustration.

69rat

last pic-map
3rd to last pic- oil pressure switch
4th to last looks like egr...
one with purple and green twisted wires looks like ect
been a while dince ive worked with these but hopefully i am right or at least pointed you in the right direction. awesome build. love 66-67 chevelle's. keep us updated.

JonQdiesel

69Rat Will do. I am going to try to stay on top of pics and such to keep people updated from now until I am ripping around the track. So stay tuned.

I thought that the last pic was the Map sensor. Does anyone know which wire goes where from this connection to a new pigtail with a 3bar map Red Green black or red white black I cant remember which
but I am leaning maybe perhaps red black green are the 3 wires.
I am a LS Dumbo when it comes down to this stuff.

Also apparently I need to switch the connector to the lower part of my TB to back to the Oil pressure sensor plug because Its now currently connected to the bottom sensor on my TB

66Chevellelq4

I love those wheels! What size spacer are you using? And how the hell did you get a 315 to fit? I can barely get a 275 in the rear without rubbing

JonQdiesel

Lol thanks I need to get the size of the spacers but I believe 1.25" on the front and 2.5" on the rear but I will double check. Also I had clearanced the frame for the rear rails for the tires to fit when I boxed the frame in. I don't know if I have pics of that. Also has to cut the trunk out some and need to install some new strips for the wheel well. I also love the look of these wheels wanted to go with a flush wheel not a deep saucer looking wheel

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

C-clip eliminator kits were never designed to handle a lot of lateral load. You can either convert the 12 bolt to use Ford axle ends or use floating calipers. I use the LS1 f-body calipers and brackets on my 70 GTO. It's a bolt in deal (mostly).

Andrew

350SS

iTrader: (38)

sensor connectors:
vss (on trans)
either map or cam sensor (can't see the wires in pic)
mass air sensor
throttle position sensor
crank sensor

the oil pressure sensor only has one pin/wire...it is somewhat circular/oval with a pie cut IIRC

JonQdiesel

Spent the last few days away at the beach to take the family on a mini vacation. After some advice from this post I have contacted moser and will be purchasing a new rear end hopefully tomorrow a 12 bolt with the ford style ends and purchasing a new mounting bracket from Kore3 to adapt to the new style. Wasted money before research hurts but what am I gonna do. I also am going with a wider style rear end to work with my wheels with no spacers. I am getting each side 2.5" longer to fill the void of the spacer.
I also just received my battery and will be mounting it in the trunk as soon as I get some time.
I mounted the coil packs on the firewall and need to find the correct plug wire sizes for the correct coils. Im sure its going to be a pain.. Also I did get the front of the pan tapped and cleaned the pan from the shavings and reinstalled the pan. Also got the return line made for the turbo.. AN Fittings are a PITA to assembe. At least the way that I am doing it apparently.
Didnt even touch the wiring yet again. Still trying to get over the anxiety of the mess from the last session of wiring. I will be trying to tackle some of that this week and hopefully it will go well. Wiring does not bode well with me for some reason. Also installed the push button starter its locaed in the center of the dash its a RFID smart key setup from ebay.
Only got the button installed another wiring nightmare that Im sure will take me longer than any normal person.

Anyways here are some updated pics.






Hard to see but the starter button is in the center of the dash.






Also Anyone running t56 setups what gears are you running in the rear ends of your cars. I have no idea which would be the most effective for the results that I want / need I want to auto x it. But also drive it on the street occasionally.

Any input helps.

JonQdiesel

Finally getting back at it. Had some time today to get some work done on the car first time in a LONG time. I have ordered all of the fuel system parts to get it going hopefully with in the next week. I am trying to make this a priority for the next. Anyways.. Got the vehicle running turned out to be a bad ECM/PCM from ebay. Went to a local junk yard and got one for $25 plugged it in and fired right up.. She is messy as hell but hopefully about to get some attention finally. Got some intercooler pipe ran. Got my new seats shipped. cant wait to put them in still got a while to go. Also tapped my IC pipe for the IAT sensor and Cut a piece of "custom" fernco fitting for my MAF. Also new plan is Ford 9" for the rear.

Jimbo1367

ProjectGatTago always has useful advice. That's why I like seeing him comment in threads I follow. LOL

analyte

iTrader: (5)

Great project, but you really need a written plan regarding what you need to do what you want. With the brakes pushing you to a 12 bolt and then to a 9 inch, it appears you are doing this car by the seat of your pants.

If you do have a plan, you may want to go back over it to avoid additional wasted time and money. These cars are expensive enough the first time around.

Kerry

66fasty

Will you have to do any frame work for those 285's to work or is just removing the inner fenders enough?

JonQdiesel

Thanks Kerry, I understand from your perspective. Originally i was comfortable running the spacers with the wheels that i am running now. Unfortunately i wanted a stronger rear #1 and #2 I wanted a wider than stock rear to compensate for my wheels so I can run a smaller spacer on the rear wheels. The overall width of this axle is from a Torino and clocks in a wider 2" allowing me to reduce my spacer size in half.

-66fasty
The 285 fit with no inner fenders and 1" spacers on front. The I really wanted a flush wheel look and not a big backspacing in the rear. Just the way I like the look of this car.

66fasty

Any progress?

rennat_2006

iTrader: (10)

What oil pan are you running? Reason i ask is because tie rod ends are a issue at the front or the oil pan.

I just finished up a customers 66 chevelle. Lq4, 4l80e, 12 bolt, ls1 brakes all around, grand cherokee steering box, etc so i should be of some help.

JonQdiesel

Its alive !!!!

First time bringing it out of my shop under its own power...

Stock PCM file need to put a base tune on it.

SO much more work to go but here she is.