cvman

56 210 Post Project. Just sold the turbo small block, now looking for an LSx.

Wardrum

Onepiece -

Thanks for the tip on the LS headers. Their website said they acquired Doug's Headers. Doug's built pretty good headers I understand so maybe these will be decent. Price is right.

Billet Specialties has a new LS accessory drive. Beautiful, but also $$$. At this point, S & P's system works best for my LS7 because of the crank pulley offset so that's where mine came from.

onepiece@time

Good to know! S&P's complete ls1 mount kit for 55-57's is only like $110, so am covered there. Tanks Inc. sells a 55-57 repro SS tank for less than 300, and in tank fuel pump for around 225. Only thing left on my list is a radiator, did a search here but function is broke. Is it OK to use an aluminum radiator with an LS1? have heard rumors of cross-contamination, whatever that is...

ewingr

I asked Mark at S&P, and he said the original style, aluminum radiator would be fine. That's what I plan to use.

Wardrum

By "original style" do you mean the downflow type? I have an aluminum downflow Griffin in my '57 convertible with a ZZ4 and it provides marginal cooling at best in very slow traffic, high temp situations. A crossflow is much more efficient and would be my choice.

onepiece@time

Is it OK to use non-aluminum radiator????
ac brackets...Car Creations only carries vette type, gave me Alf's number at Performance Automotive (831-394-4403), thats where they get theirs. Alf carries Vette and Camaro/Firebird type, black painted with fasteners and idler pully for $430. They fit any 98 up LS engine. So for ac bracket, its S&P, Zoops, and Performance Auto? Anyone else? Bueller?

jim57

My research recomendation for the LS engine is crossflow also. Another source is mcculloch@alumrad.com here is an example of their work.
Jim

ewingr

Yes, I mean downflow type. I have the same thing. I was running it with a 350 engine, wiht a B&M Blower. I had an original radiator (i.e original...not aluminum/larger core radiator) and it worked great with that blown engine for 15 years. Then I bored it out and put a larger cam in, and started having problems. I resolved by adding an electric fan on front; added a shroud; and left original fan, and it worked great.

Mark said the LS engines cooled easily. I personally don't know, that's just what he said. I am hoping I can move the electric fan to the inside of the radiator (i.e. the engine side of the radiator), and eliminate the shroud. If it's hot, I'll add the shroud back. I will try that before I spend money on a new crossflow radiator and all the attending changes.

It'll be interesting to see if anyone is getting by with that type of radiator. If no one knows, I'll be posting back on that success (or hopefully not...failure) next spring. I'm thinking if no one has tried and can tell me it won't work, I'll find out for myself. Those selling crossflows of course will recommend them. They are 'the cool thing' right now

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Wow, only one other guy besides me using the factory frame. I guess good old fashioned hot rodding has been replaced by money.

cvman

I'm using the stock frame also, but with a camaro front clip welded on.

ewingr

I may have missed any questions about frame. My frame is factory as well. Also using original rear end. Ran that with my blown 350, and it has worked fine for me since I got it originally finished in 1985.

I have had to change the front A-Arms, as the originals wouldn't align correctly any more.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

That's cool. I just like to use/improve the factory peices as much as possible. Why did you use a camaro front clip? And what year?

cvman

My wife's ex had it done, before they split up. I inherited the car in pieces and I just started working on it, so I'm not sure what clip it is, yet.

patrick_rodgers

Had the car dynotuned today (thanks Jeremy F.) 311 hp at the rear wheels when all the tweaking was done for basically a stock LS1. Your milage may very.

Kyle1974

Has any one used the stock rear end on there LS1 swap? The one in the 56 looks heafty but I just don't know if it will be strong enough to go from 100hp to 345hp also, is there any company that makes a posi unit for this rear? It looks similar to a 9" ford with the way the gears and carrage bolts in from the front of the rear end.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

I useing the stock rear. I have know idea how strong they are.

ewingr

I have the stock '56 rear in mine. It is a 3:55 posi trac. I've had it behind a 350 with a B&M 144 blower since 1985, and am just now putting in the LS1. I do not expect the LS1 to be stronger than the 350 was with the blower. I will probably be driving the LS1 easier than the 350 too.

onepiece@time

The stock rear should hold if you take it easy...if you hammer it off the line things will eventually get messy (how soon depends on condition of the axle and how much traction you get...remember...not alot of stress if the tires are spinning). It all hangs on how you plan to use it. I'm using a Ford 9" rear, narrowed for the car, Moser axles. I found a nice set up off a wrecked 55, but you could have one made locally. Besides the hot rod shops, check with the 4 wheel drive places...they do alot of these for the trucks. These housings are cheap, easy to find, and most places that have a jig will weld them up for a resonable price. You also have a ton of gears/3rd members, axles, brakes, etc. to choose from. You can get these pre-made for the tri-fives as well, if money is not an object. I don't know of any good bolt in sections for stock rears, but you would still have to worry about the axles. IMHO...hope it helps,
D

Kyle1974

Thanks for the info guys. Ewingr where did you get the posi unit for the stock rear? The car will be used as a driver not a racer so if I can set mine up with a posi unit and a 3:70 ish ratio I should be good. The cost of doing it this way will be way more cost effective than getting a new 9" or Dana 60.

ewingr

Sorry. I have no idea where I got it now. I've had it in that car since the mid 80's.