plumbing returnless fuel system?
#22
Then I could just put a tee anywhere in the line for the return line going back to the pump; correct? Thanks John L
Originally Posted by G-Body
The regulator on an f-body is part of the fuel pump assembly, it is actually just above the pump on the sending unit in the fuel tank. If you want to use the f-body sending unit assembly and graft it into your tank you can. The f-body sending unit assembly has a fuel "bucket" and a venturi system to keep that bucket full so you can run it in any tank because it does not need baffles. Heres a link showing how someone grafted it into their tankhttp://www.cardomain.com/ride/716267/3
Anyway back to your question if you use the whole assembly you can run a single line to the engine and you do not need the vette filter regulator combo. You can use any EFI fuel filter (must be able to withstand 60+ PSI), I would use a fuel filter for a 99 5.7L camaro you can get them just about anywhere for under $10
Anyway back to your question if you use the whole assembly you can run a single line to the engine and you do not need the vette filter regulator combo. You can use any EFI fuel filter (must be able to withstand 60+ PSI), I would use a fuel filter for a 99 5.7L camaro you can get them just about anywhere for under $10
#23
Yes that is correct.
Originally Posted by icantdrift
so to add to this already good discussion.... what is the regulator-like piece on the rail? is that a dampener of some sort to smooth out pressure fluctuations?
#26
Have anyone put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail to check for pressure before and after the regulator swap? As you all should know that as fluid travels the pressure drops (Check your thermodynamic book). There is an easy way to check this by hook your Vette regulator in the back and measure the pressure at the rail. Then hook the same regulator at the rail with the return line and check the pressure again. I have not gotten to this point yet but I would like to find out.
#27
Mr Dude has pretty much covered all the bypass type regulators and their routing. There's what's termed a bypass regulator (one inlet, one pressure relief outlet), and a internal bypass unit typical of most in-tank integral pump/regulators or the 'Vette type. A non bypass system uses a regulator typical to most carburetor applications where there's an inlet, and a pressure regulated outlet (not to be confused with a fuel pump that has an internal regulator). In some occasions, a carburetor can be setup using a bypass regulator as well (though low pressure). Bypass systems have been used for many years especially typical to constant flow mechanical racing fuel injection systems like Kinsler, etc. I think I may still have one of those somewhere in the garage. It's a simple ball check with a changeable compression spring to vary the pressure.
Andy1
Andy1
#28
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by LS1Cobra
Have anyone put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail to check for pressure before and after the regulator swap? As you all should know that as fluid travels the pressure drops (Check your thermodynamic book). There is an easy way to check this by hook your Vette regulator in the back and measure the pressure at the rail. Then hook the same regulator at the rail with the return line and check the pressure again. I have not gotten to this point yet but I would like to find out.
true... but the diff in a automotive fuel system is so small, that its unmeasurable by typical automotive grade gauges... the pulses created by the injectors opening and closing have a greater effect.
when you start getting into extreme fueling such as with forced induction cars, then you have to worry about routing so that some injectors dont starve other ones due to them dropping fuel before the fuel goes past to the next injector......
but noone running stock rails has to worry about that.. LOL.
#30
9 Second Club/LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (14)
They don't. That was just explained above. It's just a dampener on the fuel rail. 98-02 are all the same on F-bodies.
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
#36
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...-untitled2.jpg
the top one in this pic i think is just like the Buick GN,I am looking to do something like this to my ls1 rail,anyone have pics for me .....i like pics
is there a regulator with boost reference like the GN,or do i need to make the GN work on the ls rail... thanks
the top one in this pic i think is just like the Buick GN,I am looking to do something like this to my ls1 rail,anyone have pics for me .....i like pics
is there a regulator with boost reference like the GN,or do i need to make the GN work on the ls rail... thanks
#38
Wow! Quite an education I just got.
To make sure I understand, though,
To run an LM7, with no return line at the injector rails, using an LS-1 F-body pump w/ stock bucket is no problem. Run a 3/8 feed line to the rail. Somewhere along the way, add a T fitting between rail and pump. Open end of the T goes to the return line.
Add filter somewhere between pump & rail.
Call it a day.
Correct?
The whole line system, from pump feed line to the rails & through the T to the regulator will be pumped up to 58 psi. Over that, the regulator opens & the return line dumps off the extra. No C5 filter / regulator or tapped-in return line needed.
Yeah?
To make sure I understand, though,
To run an LM7, with no return line at the injector rails, using an LS-1 F-body pump w/ stock bucket is no problem. Run a 3/8 feed line to the rail. Somewhere along the way, add a T fitting between rail and pump. Open end of the T goes to the return line.
Add filter somewhere between pump & rail.
Call it a day.
Correct?
The whole line system, from pump feed line to the rails & through the T to the regulator will be pumped up to 58 psi. Over that, the regulator opens & the return line dumps off the extra. No C5 filter / regulator or tapped-in return line needed.
Yeah?