LS1 S13 Nissan 240sx swap..header info
#1
LS1 S13 Nissan 240sx swap..header info
Hi guys,
I am at the stage now where I will have to fab up some type of headers for the swap.....
question...
1=are there any standard headers that just bolt on and can clear the driver side steering shaft?
2=if not..whats the easiest set of headers to modify(least amount of work)
I was looking at a set of hooker headers, the block hugger ls1 ones...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_759626_-1
how do you think these will work? i will obviously ahve to fab up the down pipes
any hints on what the easiest path is?
Thanks
Adam
I am at the stage now where I will have to fab up some type of headers for the swap.....
question...
1=are there any standard headers that just bolt on and can clear the driver side steering shaft?
2=if not..whats the easiest set of headers to modify(least amount of work)
I was looking at a set of hooker headers, the block hugger ls1 ones...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_759626_-1
how do you think these will work? i will obviously ahve to fab up the down pipes
any hints on what the easiest path is?
Thanks
Adam
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Originally Posted by ADAM HUTCHINSON
Hi guys,
I am at the stage now where I will have to fab up some type of headers for the swap.....
question...
1=are there any standard headers that just bolt on and can clear the driver side steering shaft?
2=if not..whats the easiest set of headers to modify(least amount of work)
I was looking at a set of hooker headers, the block hugger ls1 ones...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_759626_-1
how do you think these will work? i will obviously ahve to fab up the down pipes
any hints on what the easiest path is?
Thanks
Adam
I am at the stage now where I will have to fab up some type of headers for the swap.....
question...
1=are there any standard headers that just bolt on and can clear the driver side steering shaft?
2=if not..whats the easiest set of headers to modify(least amount of work)
I was looking at a set of hooker headers, the block hugger ls1 ones...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_759626_-1
how do you think these will work? i will obviously ahve to fab up the down pipes
any hints on what the easiest path is?
Thanks
Adam
those hookers could work ok, they would end up being run much like my C5 manifold setup where you'd just come out of the collector and run a single pipe around the steering shaft on either side (i opted to go between the shaft and framerail area).
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Originally Posted by ADAM HUTCHINSON
Hi guys,
I am at the stage now where I will have to fab up some type of headers for the swap.....
question...
1=are there any standard headers that just bolt on and can clear the driver side steering shaft?
2=if not..whats the easiest set of headers to modify(least amount of work)
I was looking at a set of hooker headers, the block hugger ls1 ones...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_759626_-1
how do you think these will work? i will obviously ahve to fab up the down pipes
any hints on what the easiest path is?
Thanks
Adam
I am at the stage now where I will have to fab up some type of headers for the swap.....
question...
1=are there any standard headers that just bolt on and can clear the driver side steering shaft?
2=if not..whats the easiest set of headers to modify(least amount of work)
I was looking at a set of hooker headers, the block hugger ls1 ones...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_759626_-1
how do you think these will work? i will obviously ahve to fab up the down pipes
any hints on what the easiest path is?
Thanks
Adam
On the drivers side the collector is touching the steering rack and/or steering shaft on my set up and even if it didn't touch the collector is pointing right at the steering rack/steering shaft.
If you reverse sides they won't even bolt up for one of the two the collector hits the block before the flange goes flush against the head.
I wished the would have worked for they are a good price and all. I didn't think they would be worth modding for if I'm going to do that much work I'd go ahead and try to fab up or modify a long tube set to work.
HTH!
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$800 is actually not a horrible price for a set of custom Stainless Steel long tube headers for an LS1 if you've seen what they're charging for other long tubes of the same quality. I'm very happy I went with Hinson on the headers. My only complaint was that the O2 bosses weren't welded in....not a big deal. I say save up the money and bite the bullet...you won't regret it.
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yea. i got the hinson headers on mine. mine didnt have to o2 bungs on them either. but the main reason i got em is i just didnt want to spend the time it takes to make my own custom LT headers. the headers are great in everyway BUT, they limit you on how far the motor can go back. i took alittle off the streeing shaft u-joint (no big deal. theres alot there) and i was still able to use a 3.5" intake. but its tight. also. you have to make sure the motor is in there perfect ( for the headers). i have 1/8" space or less between, the pass header and frame, driver header and steer shaft, and power steering pulley and intake. and maybe 2"- 2.5" (just guessing ATM, cant remeber) between back of heads and firewall.
just my theory. the headers were made for hes car with hes mounts which lowers the crossmember which lowers the steering rack and changes the steering shaft angle. so im sure they work even better with hes mounts. but i dont reget useing them with my own mounts. they work. just take your time and make sure everything clears.
or maybe i just didnt do it right, who knows.
just my theory. the headers were made for hes car with hes mounts which lowers the crossmember which lowers the steering rack and changes the steering shaft angle. so im sure they work even better with hes mounts. but i dont reget useing them with my own mounts. they work. just take your time and make sure everything clears.
or maybe i just didnt do it right, who knows.
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Originally Posted by fouz65
yea. i got the hinson headers on mine. mine didnt have to o2 bungs on them either. but the main reason i got em is i just didnt want to spend the time it takes to make my own custom LT headers. the headers are great in everyway BUT, they limit you on how far the motor can go back. i took alittle off the streeing shaft u-joint (no big deal. theres alot there) and i was still able to use a 3.5" intake. but its tight. also. you have to make sure the motor is in there perfect ( for the headers). i have 1/8" space or less between, the pass header and frame, driver header and steer shaft, and power steering pulley and intake. and maybe 2"- 2.5" (just guessing ATM, cant remeber) between back of heads and firewall.
just my theory. the headers were made for hes car with hes mounts which lowers the crossmember which lowers the steering rack and changes the steering shaft angle. so im sure they work even better with hes mounts. but i dont reget useing them with my own mounts. they work. just take your time and make sure everything clears.
or maybe i just didnt do it right, who knows.
just my theory. the headers were made for hes car with hes mounts which lowers the crossmember which lowers the steering rack and changes the steering shaft angle. so im sure they work even better with hes mounts. but i dont reget useing them with my own mounts. they work. just take your time and make sure everything clears.
or maybe i just didnt do it right, who knows.
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Originally Posted by sierrac3_s2000
If I am understanding correctly that includes an LS1 and T56 with installation. I don't think that is really that bad of a price since it eliminates all the headaches and includes all the parts.
Tim
Tim
you are correct sir. complete swap. you drop the car and the cash, you pick up the car in completed form ready to rock. the price isn't bad at all considering shop labor averages $75/hr and the LS1 swap isn't exactly a "bolt in" affair. they also take the guesswork out of sourcing your own components.
#14
hmmm so the hookers wont work ehh... crap I have a set on order...
I was thinking of just cutting all the runners down..then making a high mounted log style manifold..that should be easily high enough..then just take the exhaust off the rear portion of that... i know it wont flow nearly as well, and will not separate the exhaust pulses..however it would be easy to do..and for the small power loss.. might be worth the easyness of it.
what do you guys think?
I was thinking of just cutting all the runners down..then making a high mounted log style manifold..that should be easily high enough..then just take the exhaust off the rear portion of that... i know it wont flow nearly as well, and will not separate the exhaust pulses..however it would be easy to do..and for the small power loss.. might be worth the easyness of it.
what do you guys think?
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Originally Posted by ADAM HUTCHINSON
hmmm so the hookers wont work ehh... crap I have a set on order...
I was thinking of just cutting all the runners down..then making a high mounted log style manifold..that should be easily high enough..then just take the exhaust off the rear portion of that... i know it wont flow nearly as well, and will not separate the exhaust pulses..however it would be easy to do..and for the small power loss.. might be worth the easyness of it.
what do you guys think?
I was thinking of just cutting all the runners down..then making a high mounted log style manifold..that should be easily high enough..then just take the exhaust off the rear portion of that... i know it wont flow nearly as well, and will not separate the exhaust pulses..however it would be easy to do..and for the small power loss.. might be worth the easyness of it.
what do you guys think?
http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL828.../181436804.jpg
The '97 to '99's look to be the same and the set I'm geting now are from a '00 and they look like the collector is a little different but the rest of the manifold looks to be the same. Obviously you don't want the cast ones for they won't be easy to modify.
HTH!
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Originally Posted by datboibrad
man i need to open the doors to my shop if people are getting 11k for this crap lol.
To have a 320 to 340 RWHP swap car for $11K not counting the cost of the car isn't to shabby if you don't have the means to do it and would like to have a turn key set up that has power steering and A/C working on it isn't to shabby. I know of this one show that was charing like $3K or so just do a cam swap on a LS1 powered f-body for they take off the heads and go through them etc... All depends on what people are willing to pay I guess.
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Originally Posted by datboibrad
man i need to open the doors to my shop if people are getting 11k for this crap lol.
well there is a little padding there since the great mike peters will touch the car. that's got to be worth at least another $1.50 or $2. i'd be willing to pay up to $0.50 just to play guitar hero on his blinged out axe.
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Originally Posted by icantdrift
well there is a little padding there since the great mike peters will touch the car. that's got to be worth at least another $1.50 or $2. i'd be willing to pay up to $0.50 just to play guitar hero on his blinged out axe.
iono man i think i could charge people 50 bux to have mike sit in their car and test drive it