Need Parts For 69 Camaro LS1 Swap
06-06-2007, 11:50 AM
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Need Parts For 69 Camaro LS1 Swap We have a 69 Camaro and we want to put a 99 LS1 Vette motor with a 4L60E transmission. We need to find a West Coast Parts Outfit that can supply us with these parts:
Oil Pan
Pick Up
Stamped Steel Tank With Pump
Needs a Sender in the Tank (using Stock Guage)
Spark Plug Wires
Headers
Swivel T-Stat Housing
4L60E Tail Shaft Housing for Stock Speedo
Trans Cross Member
Motor Mounts
Gas Pedal & Cable Conversion Kit
Oil Pan
Pick Up
Stamped Steel Tank With Pump
Needs a Sender in the Tank (using Stock Guage)
Spark Plug Wires
Headers
Swivel T-Stat Housing
4L60E Tail Shaft Housing for Stock Speedo
Trans Cross Member
Motor Mounts
Gas Pedal & Cable Conversion Kit
06-06-2007, 12:11 PM
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Any reason you will only do business with a guy on the west coast? There are several vendors capable of supplying what you need, but they are all over the country. S&P in Arkansas can meet most of those requirements. You can save a bit of cash by buying each solution from the vendor that makes it instead of using one house to supply it all. The fuel tank will run you about $750-$800 at Ricks or Rock Valley, you may want to look at the custom Stainless tank for a few bucks more. Summit/Jegs can supply a few items as well. If you send me an e-mail address, I would be happy to send you a spreadsheet of what we bought, from whom, and how much on our project (67 Camaro).
06-06-2007, 12:44 PM
#3
You might check out the sponsor (S&P, ATS, BRP, Speartech for the wiring and pedal kit,etc) that are listed here on the forum.
But check with S&P as they have a complete catalog and DVD for information.... They are about the only one stop shop you will find. They either manufactor and market there own parts and/or also market other parts that are needed for swaps.
I mail order what I needed and made my own mount and other swap parts.
I see your also in NoCal.. I know Stu-Cool is in Sac and I am in the SF East Bay area.
But check with S&P as they have a complete catalog and DVD for information.... They are about the only one stop shop you will find. They either manufactor and market there own parts and/or also market other parts that are needed for swaps.
I mail order what I needed and made my own mount and other swap parts.
I see your also in NoCal.. I know Stu-Cool is in Sac and I am in the SF East Bay area.
06-06-2007, 03:52 PM
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I don't think S&P is a sponser here, with the bashing they get, can't blame them. We did buy a lot of items from them, and prices are fair to slightly high. Mark will answer any question, no matter how weird.
Speartech is a vendor that is a sponsor and we can highly reccomend them. Prompt, correct work. You have a lot of options on headers and mount plates. Really look at what you what to build before choosing them.
From experience, steel mount plates are easier to install than aluminum (the thickness on the S&P style aluminum plates will give you headaches). There are several vendors now offereing the plates and mounts for under $60.
You will have to change your brake booster from an 11" to a 9" or else relocate the #7 coilpack.
The Magnacore wires are the only ones I found that are off the shelf, under $60, and have a 45degree boot to clear headers.
You may have to do a little clearancing with long tube headers, if you are okay with mid lengths, the S&P's drop right in and run $550 with ceramic coating. If you happen to have the corvette style factory manifolds, you may want to try using them, they flow as good as most mid length and almost as well as a lot of long tubes.
There are a lot of places that can mod the pan for you. Whoever does it should also handle the pickup tube modification.
You can modify a new 69 tank (Quanta $135) to work with an intank pump, and there are several threads on here that cover that. A bit of controversy about baffling in the tank however. For $1150, you can get a custom stainless tank made by either Rock Valley or Ricks with correct fuel pump and whatever ohm sender you want (you want a 90 ohm sender).
After spending a bit of coin on a fancy swivel neck thermostat, I am not convinced you need it. Check our thread for the part number of the goodyear hose to modify, but depending on what upper control arm you run, you may get away with the stock housing. We used a 15degree angle swivel housing and it works okay, a 45degree angle housing will not work.
Lots of people sell trans crossmembers, the S&P that we are using is great for the price, but the ATS is much more versatile. This is something you can fab yourself as well.
If you are using a cable TB, you just need the LS1 cable from Lokar and a crossram accelerator pedal for a 69 Z-28 (or from a 6Cyl.). Bolts up really nice. You can use the Lokar TB clamp for the cable, or you can use the stock bracket.
You have several options for running your speedometer. You can convert the tailshaft to run a VSS and a driven gear (which will run about $700-$900) or you can install a Cable-X. We chose the Cable-X with our 67, it cost $300. I relocated the dip switches to a more convenient location in the engine bay, and we mounted the box on the firewall right behind the driver fender (right on the big X). We will know how well that works in a few weeks if things go well. You also do have the option of running an aftermarket gauge.
You did not address the tachometer. You can either reprogram the Tach output from the computer to work with the Tach (reccomended), or if you hadn't thought of it before having the computer programmed (like som eof us), Dakot Digital sells a little module that converts Tach signals. Will let you know how well that works soon as well.
I really cannot reccomend trying to find one vendor for everything, it will cost you a lot more money that way.
you did not address the radiator yet either. What approach are you taking there????
Speartech is a vendor that is a sponsor and we can highly reccomend them. Prompt, correct work. You have a lot of options on headers and mount plates. Really look at what you what to build before choosing them.
From experience, steel mount plates are easier to install than aluminum (the thickness on the S&P style aluminum plates will give you headaches). There are several vendors now offereing the plates and mounts for under $60.
You will have to change your brake booster from an 11" to a 9" or else relocate the #7 coilpack.
The Magnacore wires are the only ones I found that are off the shelf, under $60, and have a 45degree boot to clear headers.
You may have to do a little clearancing with long tube headers, if you are okay with mid lengths, the S&P's drop right in and run $550 with ceramic coating. If you happen to have the corvette style factory manifolds, you may want to try using them, they flow as good as most mid length and almost as well as a lot of long tubes.
There are a lot of places that can mod the pan for you. Whoever does it should also handle the pickup tube modification.
You can modify a new 69 tank (Quanta $135) to work with an intank pump, and there are several threads on here that cover that. A bit of controversy about baffling in the tank however. For $1150, you can get a custom stainless tank made by either Rock Valley or Ricks with correct fuel pump and whatever ohm sender you want (you want a 90 ohm sender).
After spending a bit of coin on a fancy swivel neck thermostat, I am not convinced you need it. Check our thread for the part number of the goodyear hose to modify, but depending on what upper control arm you run, you may get away with the stock housing. We used a 15degree angle swivel housing and it works okay, a 45degree angle housing will not work.
Lots of people sell trans crossmembers, the S&P that we are using is great for the price, but the ATS is much more versatile. This is something you can fab yourself as well.
If you are using a cable TB, you just need the LS1 cable from Lokar and a crossram accelerator pedal for a 69 Z-28 (or from a 6Cyl.). Bolts up really nice. You can use the Lokar TB clamp for the cable, or you can use the stock bracket.
You have several options for running your speedometer. You can convert the tailshaft to run a VSS and a driven gear (which will run about $700-$900) or you can install a Cable-X. We chose the Cable-X with our 67, it cost $300. I relocated the dip switches to a more convenient location in the engine bay, and we mounted the box on the firewall right behind the driver fender (right on the big X). We will know how well that works in a few weeks if things go well. You also do have the option of running an aftermarket gauge.
You did not address the tachometer. You can either reprogram the Tach output from the computer to work with the Tach (reccomended), or if you hadn't thought of it before having the computer programmed (like som eof us), Dakot Digital sells a little module that converts Tach signals. Will let you know how well that works soon as well.
I really cannot reccomend trying to find one vendor for everything, it will cost you a lot more money that way.
you did not address the radiator yet either. What approach are you taking there????
Last edited by 67rsss; 06-06-2007 at 03:54 PM. Reason: Spelling like always
07-24-2011, 04:43 AM
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hey im a newbie to this i know this is a old thead.just what two know about the engine plate. i know there is heaps of different types.i want two put ls1 with t700 into 67 camaro rhd so its a bit different for me.i know the eng/trans is longer . so the plate have to be adjustable or there is a offset to move the whole lot foward.i ve got no idea and there is no ones car to look at i am in aust.can you help thanks.
