LSX Fox
LSX Fox Ok guys, I finally got the motor and tranny in to do my mockup and of course have encountered the clearance issue with the stock k member and the f-body pan .
I need more room on the passenger side just behind the steering rack mount.
I have a truck pan and swapped that on , somehow managed to get it to clear the stock kmember going in (though taking it out is going to be a b%^&*) and now have enough room it seems.
I do have a couple of questions:
I am concerned about not being able to get the engine to sit low enough with the truck pan, more precisely as low as the motor will allow ( for hood clearance) as the truck pan is thicker on the front and will contact the steering rack sooner.
So I can go with a moroso pan whose sump is a little over an inch shorter, may or may not work.
It would appear that I really should purchase a tubular k member .
I really like the maximum motorsports k member but I have not seen anyone use it in a swap yet. Has anyone tried that?
How much clearance have you guys left between the fire wall and the back of the block in your setups?
I am running a ls1 with a mcleod bellhousing and a tko 600, vic junior and holly 750 uptop.
Also it appears that the 351 swap longtubes will not clear on the pass side, anyone have any pics of their setup in a fox?
thanks for the help in advance
I need more room on the passenger side just behind the steering rack mount.
I have a truck pan and swapped that on , somehow managed to get it to clear the stock kmember going in (though taking it out is going to be a b%^&*) and now have enough room it seems.
I do have a couple of questions:
I am concerned about not being able to get the engine to sit low enough with the truck pan, more precisely as low as the motor will allow ( for hood clearance) as the truck pan is thicker on the front and will contact the steering rack sooner.
So I can go with a moroso pan whose sump is a little over an inch shorter, may or may not work.
It would appear that I really should purchase a tubular k member .
I really like the maximum motorsports k member but I have not seen anyone use it in a swap yet. Has anyone tried that?
How much clearance have you guys left between the fire wall and the back of the block in your setups?
I am running a ls1 with a mcleod bellhousing and a tko 600, vic junior and holly 750 uptop.
Also it appears that the 351 swap longtubes will not clear on the pass side, anyone have any pics of their setup in a fox?
thanks for the help in advance
I would recomend the Qa1 4.6 k-member, and modify a set of 4.6 mounts. The motor sets in nice, and I have had no clearance issues. This setup only costs about $300, and you can use your factory a-arms, and coil springs.
Jamie
Jamie
I actually made my mounts in autocad and had a local place cut them out on a cnc plasma machine,
so you recommend the qa1?
I like the idea of retaining factory a-arms and coil springs, I was not aware that theirs would do that.
does it have as much clearance as the AJE and UPR?
so you recommend the qa1?
I like the idea of retaining factory a-arms and coil springs, I was not aware that theirs would do that.
does it have as much clearance as the AJE and UPR?
what is the difference in the 4.6 k member other than the motor mounts?
I have the upper and lower and will weld them together once I have it sitting where I want it.
I just want to make sure I can get to the back of the motor if I need to, and I am trying to retain near factory length on the drive shaft as well.
are you able to get to everything you need in your setup?
also the qa1 k member supposedly moves the wheels forward and inch and some and out an inch and some.
How did that affect your steering rack?
I have the upper and lower and will weld them together once I have it sitting where I want it.
I just want to make sure I can get to the back of the motor if I need to, and I am trying to retain near factory length on the drive shaft as well.
are you able to get to everything you need in your setup?
also the qa1 k member supposedly moves the wheels forward and inch and some and out an inch and some.
How did that affect your steering rack?
With the Qa1, I can get to all of the bellhousing bolts, by just removing the intake. As for the drive shaft, I have used the factory length drive shaft in all of mine. The front wheels are set out a little, but I used the original rack in mine, and have had no problems.
Jamie
Jamie
I won't mind the extra track width but I had to modify the tie rod ends as I am running sn95 spindles.
this does seem to be a pretty good solution to my problem, I really would like to retain the f body oil pan
do you feel that the qa1 has held up pretty well and are you using it on the street?
this does seem to be a pretty good solution to my problem, I really would like to retain the f body oil pan
do you feel that the qa1 has held up pretty well and are you using it on the street?
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I personally like the 4.6 stuff for a few reasons.
1. Simplicity -- you can modify a stock motor mount and the motor just drops in.
2. Revised geometry -- I like the 4.6 angles better, even if that means adjusting a few things.
I had to extend my steering shaft to reach the rack, using a 5.0 rack. My 5.0 tie rods reached, but barely. I'm going to swap them so I feel more comfortable -- I want plenty of threads in there. Tires fit just fine on my car and didn't rub, but some people say they had clearance issues at the front.
1. Simplicity -- you can modify a stock motor mount and the motor just drops in.
2. Revised geometry -- I like the 4.6 angles better, even if that means adjusting a few things.
I had to extend my steering shaft to reach the rack, using a 5.0 rack. My 5.0 tie rods reached, but barely. I'm going to swap them so I feel more comfortable -- I want plenty of threads in there. Tires fit just fine on my car and didn't rub, but some people say they had clearance issues at the front.
I went ahead and ordered the QA1 , the tech there said that the 5.0, and the 4.6 were identical except for the motor mounting pad/ plate, seeing as I am going solid mount I guess it should not really matter,
brains, you said there are better angles on the 4.6, are you referring to the steering geometry and wider track of the 4.6 stuff?
brains, you said there are better angles on the 4.6, are you referring to the steering geometry and wider track of the 4.6 stuff?
Yes, the 4.6L setup is reported to have better ackerman angle, which keeps the wheels in line better as the wheels travel up and down through their range. I'm no suspension guru, but I've read it from many sources so it just might be true 
The QA1 4.6 tubular k member is designed to be a direct replacement for 96-98 mustangs correct?
I wonder if anyone(penny pincher) has considered using a stock K member from a 4.6 mustang?
I wonder if anyone(penny pincher) has considered using a stock K member from a 4.6 mustang?
Originally Posted by Mystic96
You should use the 4.6 K-member and the F-body oilpan. Should give you plenty of room.
Yes the '99 up one will work.
Yes the '99 up one will work.
But has anybody actualy used a stock one rather than a tubular? Every single fox projects I have seen on this forum use a tubular K-member. I'd like to try using a stock one but I dont want to have to buy one and find out later on that it doesnt really work. I know it seems like I'm asking twice but I prefer asking twice and buying once if you know what I mean.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: TX
Originally Posted by jfman
But has anybody actualy used a stock one rather than a tubular? Every single fox projects I have seen on this forum use a tubular K-member. I'd like to try using a stock one but I dont want to have to buy one and find out later on that it doesnt really work. I know it seems like I'm asking twice but I prefer asking twice and buying once if you know what I mean.
