"stop the squat"
#1
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"stop the squat"
Hey guys, this is a vid of my car. bone stock suspension LS1 vert with convertor, gears, and spray. just curious, what do i need to do to the suspension to get it straight out of the hole instead of squatting?
any help is appreciated, this looks horrible.
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....2-BA08A7681D8E
any help is appreciated, this looks horrible.
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....2-BA08A7681D8E
#7
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Lower control arm relocation brackets and/or a torque
arm nose-mount relocation are what will change the
suspension response. The TA itself is not such a big
contributor I think but having its nose a little lower
would help bite, as would having the rear of the LCAs
lower. To move the TA nose is more $/work, I would
go get a set of bolt-in BMR relocation brackets (used
if possible) and try that out.
A car can squat due to poor suspension geometry, but
it can also squat because it has effective weight transfer.
This would be a good problem to have.Question is, does
it squat before or after the nose lifts (can you tell?).
It also looks like some body roll at the outset which a
pair of stiffer sway bars would help (rear to fix this,
front to not make it a tail-happy sled once you change
the rear). Or a "drag bag" might be a good option if
for some reason you don't want all-around handling
improvement or the sway bar expense.
arm nose-mount relocation are what will change the
suspension response. The TA itself is not such a big
contributor I think but having its nose a little lower
would help bite, as would having the rear of the LCAs
lower. To move the TA nose is more $/work, I would
go get a set of bolt-in BMR relocation brackets (used
if possible) and try that out.
A car can squat due to poor suspension geometry, but
it can also squat because it has effective weight transfer.
This would be a good problem to have.Question is, does
it squat before or after the nose lifts (can you tell?).
It also looks like some body roll at the outset which a
pair of stiffer sway bars would help (rear to fix this,
front to not make it a tail-happy sled once you change
the rear). Or a "drag bag" might be a good option if
for some reason you don't want all-around handling
improvement or the sway bar expense.