02 Z06 - passenger power lock and window wont work
07-02-2006, 05:27 PM
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02 Z06 - passenger power lock and window wont work My car developed a problem last night with the passenger side window and lock. Neither control panel or the remote will actuate the passenger lock or window.
I have about 5volts on 2 of the wires on the plug at the window and lock buttons (passenger side).
I can't find any fuses (under the dah or the hood) labeled for the window or locks. What are the abbreviations for those?
EDIT: There is no clicking or noise when I press the buttons for the passenger lock or window. I pulled the fuse for the Door Control Module for the drivers side and thats what happens. I think the DCM-right is dead. Where is it and where can I get a new one?
I have about 5volts on 2 of the wires on the plug at the window and lock buttons (passenger side).
I can't find any fuses (under the dah or the hood) labeled for the window or locks. What are the abbreviations for those?
EDIT: There is no clicking or noise when I press the buttons for the passenger lock or window. I pulled the fuse for the Door Control Module for the drivers side and thats what happens. I think the DCM-right is dead. Where is it and where can I get a new one?
Last edited by slvrblt; 07-02-2006 at 05:39 PM.
07-02-2006, 05:50 PM
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The control module is bolted onto the door, behind the door panel.
I believe it is between 2-300 bucks for one from a parts wholesaler like Cromer/Dal Slaughbaugh.
There are a couple of tricks/rigs to try before you just buy a new module, if you're interested. You can cut open the relay itself and clean the contacts, or do the precision door-slam method (sarcasm). Here is a thread that will give you a good start. Good luck.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=window+relay
Ryan
I believe it is between 2-300 bucks for one from a parts wholesaler like Cromer/Dal Slaughbaugh.
There are a couple of tricks/rigs to try before you just buy a new module, if you're interested. You can cut open the relay itself and clean the contacts, or do the precision door-slam method (sarcasm). Here is a thread that will give you a good start. Good luck.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=window+relay
Ryan
07-02-2006, 06:01 PM
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Thanks for the info.
I just read that topic not 3 minutes ago!
Im not sure it applied because the topic starter says he can hear the click when he tries the window. I can hear nothing.
The BCM looks like it controls the window, lock, and mirror. None of these work on my passenger door.
http://corvetteforum.shelor.net/temp...ow_Control.gif
I will probably open up the DCM and clean it in the meantime.
Any idea what a local dealer would charge for this module?
I just read that topic not 3 minutes ago!
Im not sure it applied because the topic starter says he can hear the click when he tries the window. I can hear nothing.
The BCM looks like it controls the window, lock, and mirror. None of these work on my passenger door.
http://corvetteforum.shelor.net/temp...ow_Control.gif
I will probably open up the DCM and clean it in the meantime.
Any idea what a local dealer would charge for this module?
07-03-2006, 10:59 AM
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Well, I've heard several guys say that they had it fixed under warranty, but the invoice read around 600 bucks including labor. Yousers 
.
Hard to guess what a dealer would charge for the part, but I'd figure roughly in the $250-400 range :shrug:.
Ryan
.Hard to guess what a dealer would charge for the part, but I'd figure roughly in the $250-400 range :shrug:.
Ryan
07-03-2006, 04:53 PM
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I bought a new DCM today ($246). I came home and tried the old one again. The radio shut off completely and the DIC said "Reduced Engine Power".
I tried the new one and it did the same thing.
The car has had the ABS/Traction Control/Active handling error on the DIC for a few days.
I cleaned both grounds behind either headlight, but that didnt change anything.
I don't know what to look for from here...?
EDIT:
Between a ground and the wires on the back of the passenger window/lock switch, I only have 3-4volts. Is this normal?
I tried the new one and it did the same thing.
The car has had the ABS/Traction Control/Active handling error on the DIC for a few days.
I cleaned both grounds behind either headlight, but that didnt change anything.
I don't know what to look for from here...?
EDIT:
Between a ground and the wires on the back of the passenger window/lock switch, I only have 3-4volts. Is this normal?
Last edited by slvrblt; 07-03-2006 at 05:51 PM.
07-03-2006, 06:29 PM
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I unplugged the battery for a bit and plugged in the DCM and battery. The reduced power message is gone, but the lock, window, and mirror still dont work.
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07-03-2006, 07:42 PM
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Well, I found that the ground wires in the harness to the Door Control Module only had about 3-5 volts (as stated above). I checked the resistance to the battery and it was well over 1000 ohms.
I ran a ground to one of the wires (black plug, big brown wire) and the door locks worked just fine.
It started raining so I havent had a chance to trace the bad ground far enough to fix it yet.
I ran a ground to one of the wires (black plug, big brown wire) and the door locks worked just fine.
It started raining so I havent had a chance to trace the bad ground far enough to fix it yet.
07-04-2006, 07:52 AM
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Hmmmm. Check your battery for acid leaks. Though i replaced mine quickly with an Optima Red Top I have heard of other vette owners having problems with leaking AC/Delco batteries....
07-04-2006, 12:18 PM
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I put an optoma in a few weeks ago becase the terminals started leaking on the Delco battery. There was no acid more than an inch away from the terminals, so I think everythiong is ok.
07-04-2006, 04:00 PM
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Ok, well I fixed the problem.
The 12ga black ground wire that goes into the black plug on the DCM had over 1000ohms resistance to the ground lug in front of the door sill under the plastic cover. This ground lug is exactly like the ones behind either headlight, except it has about 10+ wires coming out of it.
I was unable to trace the wire to find the break, so I ran a new ground wire and it works now.
The 12ga black ground wire that goes into the black plug on the DCM had over 1000ohms resistance to the ground lug in front of the door sill under the plastic cover. This ground lug is exactly like the ones behind either headlight, except it has about 10+ wires coming out of it.
I was unable to trace the wire to find the break, so I ran a new ground wire and it works now.
07-04-2006, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by slvrblt
Ok, well I fixed the problem.
The 12ga black ground wire that goes into the black plug on the DCM had over 1000ohms resistance to the ground lug in front of the door sill under the plastic cover. This ground lug is exactly like the ones behind either headlight, except it has about 10+ wires coming out of it.
I was unable to trace the wire to find the break, so I ran a new ground wire and it works now.
The 12ga black ground wire that goes into the black plug on the DCM had over 1000ohms resistance to the ground lug in front of the door sill under the plastic cover. This ground lug is exactly like the ones behind either headlight, except it has about 10+ wires coming out of it.
I was unable to trace the wire to find the break, so I ran a new ground wire and it works now.
I had a bad ground at the rear stoplights once. When I stepped on the brakes the system grounded through the dash causing the dash lights to illuminate... 
It was fun.
07-04-2006, 10:02 PM
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Glad you bandaided the problem. However, it sounds like there is still a problem 
.
Crappy GM quality. I think we all knew there was a catch to getting the C5 performance...
Ryan
.Crappy GM quality. I think we all knew there was a catch to getting the C5 performance...
Ryan
