Lid/Catback WS6 13.3@110.9 with *Vid*

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Old 09-26-2009, 09:37 PM
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Default Lid/Catback WS6 13.3@110.9 with *Vid*

Hit the track in Fallon, Nevada which is at 4,000ft. Ran a best of 13.7 @ 105 with a 2.2 60'. Everyone was telling me that I would run way faster at Sea level. Curiosity got the best of me and I decided to make the 2 1/2 hour drive to the Sacramento Race Way which is at sea level, to see what I'd run. I ended up running a best of 13.3 @ 110mph with a 2.2 60'.

Only thing that was different was that in Fallon I was fully deweighted. I had removed the passenger seat, rear seat, spare and jack which all added up to almost exactly 100lb. At Sea Level in Sacramento I had all the weight. So, since 100lbs in an f-bod is about a 10th of a second and 1mph or more, I would actually be running a 13.2 @ 111mph if I had been deweighted. That's a difference of six tenths of a second dropping 4,000ft. I'm very happy with my time. I'm gonna buy long tubes and get a mail order tune that should push me into at least 12.9's. All I need is about $1,000. Here's my time slip and vid.



http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoID=63572641
Old 09-26-2009, 11:00 PM
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congrats!
Old 09-27-2009, 08:49 AM
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Nice time, congrats
Old 09-27-2009, 02:35 PM
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great mph but get some tires, esp. w. long tubes you will be all over the place.
Old 09-28-2009, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by fbodyman1026
great mph but get some tires, esp. w. long tubes you will be all over the place.
I have to make it with my Good Year Eagle F1's. I made it a goal to get into the 12's on stock WS6 tires. I think with my long tubes and my mail order tune from frost it'll get me into the 12's. If I go after that and keep pulling 13.0's and can't get in I'll buy an underdrive pulley as a last resort to bump me into the 12's. And then if that doesn't work I'll choke up the money and get an LS6 intake. But I think Long tubes and my Frost Mail order Tune should be enough.

The Long Tubes should be good for at least 20rwhp or 2 tenths. The Tune should at least pull all my mods together and give me 10hp which would be another tenth. Then finally, Fully deweighting like I did in FAllon should give me my last 10th so theoretically it looks like a 12.9 is possible, maybe with a 113mph trap.
Old 09-28-2009, 12:52 PM
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While I understand you want to reach your goal, whats the point of it? I thought the basic consensus was to faster for less $. Why would you want to spend more money to run the same times. Traps speeds don't matter the e/t does IMHO. Running a 12.9 @ 105 is just as good as 12.9 @113. So why wouldn't you just spend $300 on DR's and get in the 12's instead of spending $1000+ on longtubes.

Also longtubes make the tires spin so much harder I have seen a guy run slower because he was on street tires. I went straight to DR's at the track so I don't have any times but I remember being able a hook stock on the street from a dig and post- LT's was a burnout show. lol

Last edited by fbodyman1026; 09-28-2009 at 12:58 PM.
Old 09-28-2009, 03:25 PM
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Well, do stock street tires last a lot longer than DR's? My reasoning was that I didn't want to run DR's like Mickey Thompsons or Nitto 555's because they would wear out a lot faster than my stock eagle F1's. Under this theory I would only want to run my DR's at the track and not as my DD.

My goal basically is to have a 12 second car all the time, not have a vette or something pull up next to me on the street and I have to yell, "hold on, can you stay here? I have to go get my Drag tires!"

But if Nitto 555's or Mickey Thompsons last just as long as regular street tires I will definitely buy them and just replace my rears. That would be much easier than dumping tons of mods on my car.
Old 09-28-2009, 04:33 PM
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DRs in general are not going to last more then 10 to 15k.....while your F1s should go 30k or so.
Old 09-28-2009, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by qwk93ta
DRs in general are not going to last more then 10 to 15k.....while your F1s should go 30k or so.
Thank you for the info, that's what I suspected, so I'll be sticking with my good ol' eagles and try to squeak into the 12's.
Old 09-29-2009, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBlueKnight
My goal basically is to have a 12 second car all the time, not have a vette or something pull up next to me on the street and I have to yell, "hold on, can you stay here? I have to go get my Drag tires!"
That 12 second car statement is very vague though. Say you do run a high 12 with a high trap speed 113+. From a dig race on the street say about 1/8 mile which is about up to 85-90 mph with that trap speed your car would act more like a mid-13 car since your car is making up the time all up top. But if you were to race from like a 50 roll it would perform much more like a low 12 second car because of the high trap speed. So it depends on the race. But otherwise Lt's make the car sounds so much better and makes it seem like another car. Good Luck either way.
Old 09-29-2009, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by fbodyman1026
That 12 second car statement is very vague though. Say you do run a high 12 with a high trap speed 113+. From a dig race on the street say about 1/8 mile which is about up to 85-90 mph with that trap speed your car would act more like a mid-13 car since your car is making up the time all up top. But if you were to race from like a 50 roll it would perform much more like a low 12 second car because of the high trap speed. So it depends on the race. But otherwise Lt's make the car sounds so much better and makes it seem like another car. Good Luck either way.
Thanks man, I'll update everyone when I get my Long tubes. I'm getting the coated pace setter headers with texas speed catted y pipe for 780, and then getting a mail order tune from Frost for 140, so it comes out to about 920, and that is including shipping. My wife keeps givin me sh*t for dumping money into my car when I still owe $8900 on it, she's probably right
Old 09-29-2009, 04:30 PM
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don't forget the o2 extensions/ vette o2's, gaskets and you should put in new plugs/wires since your already taking them off. lol thats an extra $240
Old 09-29-2009, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by fbodyman1026
don't forget the o2 extensions/ vette o2's, gaskets and you should put in new plugs/wires since your already taking them off. lol thats an extra $240
Oh Yeah can't forget that stuff, that's actually included. The headers/ catted y-pipe and gaskets are $590. Than the Ceramic Coating is $100, the 02 extensions are $40, and plugs are $17 then shipping for everything is about $30. That's a good idea though, I should replace the spark plug wires.
Old 10-01-2009, 12:13 PM
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Default rooolling staaart!(dur)

Originally Posted by fbodyman1026
That 12 second car statement is very vague though. Say you do run a high 12 with a high trap speed 113+. From a dig race on the street say about 1/8 mile which is about up to 85-90 mph with that trap speed your car would act more like a mid-13 car since your car is making up the time all up top. But if you were to race from like a 50 roll it would perform much more like a low 12 second car because of the high trap speed. So it depends on the race. But otherwise Lt's make the car sounds so much better and makes it seem like another car. Good Luck either way.
Yeah that's what i've always thought.sorta.Roll racing is more indictave of how fast ur car is than a dig race.It's like if I raced someone from a dig with my zr1 245s' and they had slicks or AWD and they beat me but from a roll my car beats them.Who's faster?It's an indication of better traction,not car speed.Of course we all know you could never get the owner of an AWD to wrap his mind around that!

Last edited by badamn; 10-01-2009 at 12:27 PM.
Old 10-01-2009, 01:25 PM
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I don't think your car can be really called "faster" than someone elses unless you can win from a dig and from a roll. But everyone has different opinions.



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