I'm assuming I shouldn't have ran this slow.. (first time at track with T/A)
03-28-2012, 03:45 AM
#1
I'm assuming I shouldn't have ran this slow.. (first time at track with T/A) So I took my 1998 Trans Am to the track for the first time. Automatic, 155k miles, and I never got documentation from previous owner but "supposedly" it has a 6.0 GTO aluminum block, lifters, upgraded drivetrain work, and flowmaster. I was fine buying the car still without the proof even if it was stock, but back to the point. So I ran the car for the first time yesterday, Tuesday, and my best run was coincidentally also my first one at 14.425 ....judging by the other Firebirds/Camaros I saw easily going mid 13's (there were a few in the high 11's and 12 sec range) I'm guessing this is SLOW? Or is this the stock range? I know my crappy economy tires I have from my old V6 Firebird didn't help as one run I was literally burning out/spinning tires down the first 1/8th of the track, but still I can't imagine tires could cause me to run this crappily. I was getting between my best time of 14.425 to 14.851 (not including the 17 second run that resulted from the tire spinning I just said above).
I still had fun, glad Gateway is open again, and now at least have a starting point to improve from so I'm glad I got these passes down to see what the car would run.
I still had fun, glad Gateway is open again, and now at least have a starting point to improve from so I'm glad I got these passes down to see what the car would run.
03-28-2012, 06:15 AM
#2
11 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cape Girardeau, MO
Posts: 1,865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes that is slow and if you were literally spinning half track, then yea that could do it to. Does it have an ls2 engine or literally just the block... You can check the vin # on the back to verify.
03-28-2012, 09:09 AM
#3
What was the MPH and the rest of the info from the slip? Since you were spinning your time is meaningless...all it tells you is you spun.
Your MPH will tell you how much power you are making and the 60ft will help get an idea what the car "should" run if it's not spinning.
Your MPH will tell you how much power you are making and the 60ft will help get an idea what the car "should" run if it's not spinning.
03-28-2012, 01:06 PM
#4
What was the MPH and the rest of the info from the slip? Since you were spinning your time is meaningless...all it tells you is you spun.
Your MPH will tell you how much power you are making and the 60ft will help get an idea what the car "should" run if it's not spinning.
Your MPH will tell you how much power you are making and the 60ft will help get an idea what the car "should" run if it's not spinning.
R/T .650
60' 2.193
330 6.206
1/8 9.427
MPH 77.00
1000 12.152
1/4 14.425
MPH 99.68
The one I spun pretty much halfway down the track I did do a longer burnout which I realize was stupid on those tires as I'm guessing they were just too hot from that causing hardcore traction loss. Here is the time on that. My other runs I was consistent between 14.4-14.8 as I said above.
R/T .832
60' 2.917
330 7.927
1/8 11.601
MPH 68.87
1000 14.670
1/4 17.190
MPH 89.52
03-28-2012, 01:27 PM
#5
You are severely down on power for even a stock car. For reference if your car was bone stock it would be trapping ~82-84mph in the 1/8th and ~104-106mph in the 1/4. You are down 40-60rwhp from a STOCK ls1 IMO.
My car back when it was a mild 355 smallblock (~315 crank hp, maybe 260rwhp on a good day) and weighed over 3800lbs ran what you run.
Check plugs, wires, compression check, leakdown test, and I would put a timing light on each wire to see if there is fire hitting every cylinder.
My car back when it was a mild 355 smallblock (~315 crank hp, maybe 260rwhp on a good day) and weighed over 3800lbs ran what you run.
Check plugs, wires, compression check, leakdown test, and I would put a timing light on each wire to see if there is fire hitting every cylinder.
Last edited by thunderstruck507; 03-28-2012 at 02:35 PM.
Trending Topics
03-28-2012, 03:45 PM
#8
BTW, also have the car scanned for codes. Spray the MAF sensor with MAF or carb cleaner. Make sure you are only running 91+ octane fuel.
The early ls1s often had trouble with faulty knock sensors too. See if someone with HP tuners, efi live, or a snap on diagnostic tool can ride with you and look for spark retard. If it gets more than a couple degrees, I would pull the intake manifold and replace the knock sensors in the block.
Hopefully the transmission is not slipping, if it has not had work and has 155K miles it is always a possibility.
The early ls1s often had trouble with faulty knock sensors too. See if someone with HP tuners, efi live, or a snap on diagnostic tool can ride with you and look for spark retard. If it gets more than a couple degrees, I would pull the intake manifold and replace the knock sensors in the block.
Hopefully the transmission is not slipping, if it has not had work and has 155K miles it is always a possibility.
03-30-2012, 12:03 AM
#9
BTW, also have the car scanned for codes. Spray the MAF sensor with MAF or carb cleaner. Make sure you are only running 91+ octane fuel.
The early ls1s often had trouble with faulty knock sensors too. See if someone with HP tuners, efi live, or a snap on diagnostic tool can ride with you and look for spark retard. If it gets more than a couple degrees, I would pull the intake manifold and replace the knock sensors in the block.
Hopefully the transmission is not slipping, if it has not had work and has 155K miles it is always a possibility.
The early ls1s often had trouble with faulty knock sensors too. See if someone with HP tuners, efi live, or a snap on diagnostic tool can ride with you and look for spark retard. If it gets more than a couple degrees, I would pull the intake manifold and replace the knock sensors in the block.
Hopefully the transmission is not slipping, if it has not had work and has 155K miles it is always a possibility.
For 155k miles you can check the fuel filter,clean the injectors,check the air filter not to be to much derty check you tpis voltage to verify the t/blade open completly.Just my .02 cents.
03-31-2012, 10:42 PM
#10
Yeah the SES light is on...so I'll swing by Autozone and see what's up. Sometimes it does feel like the transmission is acting screwy, but then it doesn't.
Replaced plugs/wires recently so those are good. What tools are needed to do a leakdown and compression test, and how do you do it? lol
I have realized I haven't done a full rundown of the car since I bought it back in October so I'll check the filter, and other random stuff.
Replaced plugs/wires recently so those are good. What tools are needed to do a leakdown and compression test, and how do you do it? lol
I have realized I haven't done a full rundown of the car since I bought it back in October so I'll check the filter, and other random stuff.
