Rare99SS

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I took my Auto Z28 to the track for the first time last night. I just picked it up in Febuary. It didint do what I was expecting with the mods it has. Lid, Ported TB, LS6 Intake, LTs, ORY, Borla CB w/No Plate, Lunati 224/224, 3.73s, stock rebuilt trans and stall w/ shift kit. This is also my first auto car. First pass 13.06@110 2.15 60FT. Second pass 13.36@109 2.21 60FT. Third pass 13.44@107 2.16 60FT. Final pass 13.65@109 2.29 60FT. Like what the hell! The car consistently gets slower as the temps go down. It was pretty cool last night. I was expecting at least 12s but that didnt happen. Anybody have any ideas what they think is wrong? What do you think the car should be running with those mods and that kind of mph? Thanks.

alexus6798

iTrader: (24)

What size stall? Those 60' times are terrible too. What tires were you running?May need better tune.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

your 60 foots got worse and worse , as the track gets colder it gets harder to find traction .

as it gets colder you should also be making more power which will increase traps and yours dropped , I am guessing heat soak was an issue , either your runs were pretty close together or you kept the hood closed and idled a lot in the staging lanes. When racing for Personal best et'sits always quality over quantity , give the car at least one good hour plus break with the hood up preferably facing into any wind.

as for what should it run cam headers intake supporting mods ought to be capable of mid 11's or better , mnay bolt on cars have run into the 11's , cammed cars should be quicker but things like temp , humidity , barometric pressure (all these factors add up to density altitude) state of mechanical tune as well as pcm tune , driver experience ,etc... all play a role.

In theory if you started out trapping 110.xx and it got colder you should have picked up a couple mph later on a car trapping 111/112 is capable of cracking 11's , my 6 speed car did at 111.xx

sticky tires and proper cool downs and you should at least be into the low 12's but something else is going on with the tune/tune up parts/setup or you would be trapping higher , a good running cammed car should be trapping into the 1 teens at minimum. Of course if your track is at 3000 feet in elevation you will be playing by totally different rules than us coastal guys...

edit: Maryland you should be pretty close to sea level there and get good da's as long as temps are low

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

This. It looks like you were spinning quite a bit. What tires were you running?

Rare99SS

iTrader: (1)

I was running just standard 275/17 street tires at 18-20psi. Stock stall also. It was spinning in second but not to bad but i guess it was just enough. On my last pass i thought i was smart and left the hood up all the way through the staging lanes until i was next up. The lid was ice cold. I ran and it was the worst time. I know I need some DRs and a stall but was hoping it would do much better than what a stock car runs.

FoHawk

iTrader: (3)

1. Breath, you are in a good spot.
2. More hp = less traction
3. You need drag radials 1st and foremost.
4. If you get a stall, your a 11 second ride.


All it is... is time and money. Your there, just need to get your *** out the hole. So stop being an "*******" lol.

Stardust

Drag Radials. Need to get the 60' consistant and quick before the rest of the run follows.

BODUKE

Well said.

dannyz

Like everyone else has said, stall/dr's.

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

The more power you make or the more efficiently you get the power to the tires, the harder it will be to hook up. A minimum of a 3600 converter will make the power more fun to drive on the street. Get drag radials ASAP as well

Footlead

iTrader: (18)

Terrible 60 fts are whats killing you. Get some Drag Radials first and see what happens. Then get a quality convertor and get at least a 3600 and you will be able to gauge what picked the car up the most. Do NOT get a 3200. If budget is tight==wait till money is there !!!!Put the 3600 at least in it and it will RUN.

Rare99SS

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for the advice. I know I needed the stall and DRs but now I NEED them lol. I was planning on getting some DRs soon anyways to put on a spare set of rims. I was going to get the car retuned since i bought it with the mods already done and I just want to make sure EVERYTHING is right. So should I wait to do that until i have a stall?

joker_01z28

iTrader: (14)

IMO yes wait til you have a stall then get it retuned, I was in the same boat a few years ago modded with stock stall, thats what is killing ya

Rare99SS

iTrader: (1)

Ok i kinda figured but im new to the whole auto thing so I wasnt exactly sure.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Cammed car on a stock stall will run worse than a bolt on car on the stock stall a lot of the time.

Get a good converter and you will pick up a LOT of time on good tires and should gain a mph or 2 as well.

Rare99SS

iTrader: (1)

See the problem is, I dont know squat about automatics How do I choose a converter to match the cam and gears I have? Do I get a lockup converter? Im sure when I get a converter my mpg will go up too cuz I get horrible mileage now. At least I think so. Ive been searching around the auto section and reading a little but im such an auto noob that its all like "huh" lol. So if anybody can point me in the right direction that would be great.

FoHawk

iTrader: (3)

Call PTC and tell them your specs and they'll build you one for your setup for a great price.

(256) 383-6868

joelster

Go big on the converter. I'd rock a 3600-4000 minimum. A stock LS engine makes peak power well over 5000rpm, and yours is cammed so it will be even higher. You will need a tune right away once you get the converter in there. The shift tables will be way off since the pcm will see the rpm much higher than the corresponding mph with the stock tables. I would swap converters and limp the car to a shop for a tune. A "tight" converter will drive much like a bone stock converter until you mash the gas, then all hell breaks loose, lol.

A 110mph trap is bottom 12's once you get it hooked up and out of the hole.

Rare99SS

iTrader: (1)

I like the sound of that
Now with getting a converter, what else would/should I need.

reeperz28

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to the automatic world if you have an auto z-28 check into what rear end gears you have. Myne came with 2.73 rear gear. That would be the very first thing you need to change. If you get a larger stall converter with 2.73's and cam you will hate it.