T6Rocket

8.61 x my trusty conversion factor (1.565) = 13.48, so you're 1/8 and 1/4 mile times match.

Al

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

Do you still have torque management? My car's mile per hour was not where I thought it should be and the car layed over on the 2-3 shift. A friend of mine checked the tune and a lot of timing was being pulled on the 2-3 shift. He eliminated torque management and the car ran a new best mph running Fusion ZR1's instead of the Bogarts and drag radials I usually have on the car at the track.

N2RACINGLS1's

iTrader: (2)

Well the car is currently running what a stock auto 4 gen would run with good traction. I am not really seeing major mods to run low 12's unless you have taken a lot of weight out of it. It needs to 60 foot better for sure! Let me ask this have you put new plugs in it? Also when was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Something is off for sure!

N2

ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

While the rear is off the ground, apply the brake. Does the rear still turn as easy as before? If not, your rear brake line is corroded and acting like a check valve. You push the brake pedal forcing fluid past the restriction, brakes work fine but have a slow bleed hanging up the discs. I have seen it in much older cars anyway.

jimmyp3353

iTrader: (3)

Dude, I think you are over thinking it a little. Take a look at your brakes for sure, but if there is no issue there I would definitely take the car to a reputable shop in the area and get it dyno tuned. I know frost is reputable, but when you start modding you should really get the car dyno tuned. You never know.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

From the little I have seen and heard, that torque converter might not be helping you nearly as much as you think. There was another thread recently where a guy put it on and was disappointed with it from a performance standpoint. He did not get the results people do when running like yank 3600, etc. He was going to take it out and put it in his wife's car or something, dunno what happened. I have the same torque converter in my truck and like it so I'm not bashing it ore Circle D. Remember that it's a modified stock unit and just isn't going to give you the same performance a dedicated unit will.

Mark01Ws6

Another issue could be false knock pulling timing. Headers are known to cause issues with knock sometimes. Like stated previously... a regular dyno tune or even if you can get a data log can tell you mounds of info.

Kcutty85

iTrader: (3)

I'm having the same issue , im starting to think it's my torque converter.. here's my thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...way-a4-ss.html

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Don't guess your DA, go here and put in the info from your slip: http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php

Your MPH is garbage both in the 1/8th and 1/4. Garbage MPH with half decent 60ft means it's not making proper HP.

First thing to do is use a heat gun or water spray and check for equal heat on the header tubes. Chances are you have a busted plug or wire during install.

Next you need to scan the car with something to see what the timing is doing. Should be 24-28* at WOT. If it's not look for knock retard on the scanner. You could be using **** gas and the car running low timing or it could have false knock.

See that the o2 sensors are fluctuating. If they are hanging near 0mv, 450mv, or 900mv you have an issue with them or the wiring (also common with headers).

Scanner should also show Long Term Fuel Trims for both banks. They should be -0% to -10%. If they are positive that is bad because it means the PCM senses the car is lean and is adding fuel. Could be mechanical, electrical, or tune problem.

You also need to see what the MAP kPa says with key on engine off then compare to what it reads at WOT. If it's more than 2 kPa you have an air restriction.

I'm sure I'm forgetting some things but those will give you a good start. Much past that and you will need a wideband and tuning software to really dig in.

Frost tuned cars usually run very well, but sometimes cars are weird...at the end of the day no mail order tune that doesn't use logs and multiple tries is going to be optimal and it could be way off. But you have a lot of things to check before pointing to the tuner.