Low 12 mods, mid 13 runs =(
#22
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Do you still have torque management? My car's mile per hour was not where I thought it should be and the car layed over on the 2-3 shift. A friend of mine checked the tune and a lot of timing was being pulled on the 2-3 shift. He eliminated torque management and the car ran a new best mph running Fusion ZR1's instead of the Bogarts and drag radials I usually have on the car at the track.
#23
9 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Hey guys. So my car is just not running how it should. My modifications re as follows
- SLP LID/air scoop
- LTs w/ ORY and Gibson axle back
- Frost Tune
- Rebuilt 4L60E with shift kit
- Circle D 3200 Stall
- LCAs, LCA Relos, KYB AGX with SLP Springs, Bolt in 2 Pt SFC
- 3.73 Rear Gear w/ TA Girdle
So basically everything is new within the last 5000 miles. Car has 155k on it. My best time so far is 13.6 @ 102 w/ 8.65 1/8th mile and a 2.1 60 Foot. I am running not very good 275/40/18 tires on the back. I am going to the track tonight. i just got a set of 275/40/17 Nitto NT05R tires. So we will see how she does. But where do you think my car is not working out? And what can t do better. This is all very frustrating. Especially since my first pass last time I went 15.1 @ 101 mph with a 2.66 60 foot. And then it pulled the 13.6 @ 102. Makes no sense. HELP =(
- SLP LID/air scoop
- LTs w/ ORY and Gibson axle back
- Frost Tune
- Rebuilt 4L60E with shift kit
- Circle D 3200 Stall
- LCAs, LCA Relos, KYB AGX with SLP Springs, Bolt in 2 Pt SFC
- 3.73 Rear Gear w/ TA Girdle
So basically everything is new within the last 5000 miles. Car has 155k on it. My best time so far is 13.6 @ 102 w/ 8.65 1/8th mile and a 2.1 60 Foot. I am running not very good 275/40/18 tires on the back. I am going to the track tonight. i just got a set of 275/40/17 Nitto NT05R tires. So we will see how she does. But where do you think my car is not working out? And what can t do better. This is all very frustrating. Especially since my first pass last time I went 15.1 @ 101 mph with a 2.66 60 foot. And then it pulled the 13.6 @ 102. Makes no sense. HELP =(
N2
Last edited by N2RACINGLS1's; 06-25-2017 at 12:40 PM.
#24
TECH Regular
iTrader: (9)
While the rear is off the ground, apply the brake. Does the rear still turn as easy as before? If not, your rear brake line is corroded and acting like a check valve. You push the brake pedal forcing fluid past the restriction, brakes work fine but have a slow bleed hanging up the discs. I have seen it in much older cars anyway.
#25
Dude, I think you are over thinking it a little. Take a look at your brakes for sure, but if there is no issue there I would definitely take the car to a reputable shop in the area and get it dyno tuned. I know frost is reputable, but when you start modding you should really get the car dyno tuned. You never know.
#26
TECH Addict
iTrader: (17)
From the little I have seen and heard, that torque converter might not be helping you nearly as much as you think. There was another thread recently where a guy put it on and was disappointed with it from a performance standpoint. He did not get the results people do when running like yank 3600, etc. He was going to take it out and put it in his wife's car or something, dunno what happened. I have the same torque converter in my truck and like it so I'm not bashing it ore Circle D. Remember that it's a modified stock unit and just isn't going to give you the same performance a dedicated unit will.
#27
Staging Lane
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Cumberland Md
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Another issue could be false knock pulling timing. Headers are known to cause issues with knock sometimes. Like stated previously... a regular dyno tune or even if you can get a data log can tell you mounds of info.
#28
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
I'm having the same issue , im starting to think it's my torque converter.. here's my thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...way-a4-ss.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...way-a4-ss.html
#29
11 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
Don't guess your DA, go here and put in the info from your slip: http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php
Your MPH is garbage both in the 1/8th and 1/4. Garbage MPH with half decent 60ft means it's not making proper HP.
First thing to do is use a heat gun or water spray and check for equal heat on the header tubes. Chances are you have a busted plug or wire during install.
Next you need to scan the car with something to see what the timing is doing. Should be 24-28* at WOT. If it's not look for knock retard on the scanner. You could be using **** gas and the car running low timing or it could have false knock.
See that the o2 sensors are fluctuating. If they are hanging near 0mv, 450mv, or 900mv you have an issue with them or the wiring (also common with headers).
Scanner should also show Long Term Fuel Trims for both banks. They should be -0% to -10%. If they are positive that is bad because it means the PCM senses the car is lean and is adding fuel. Could be mechanical, electrical, or tune problem.
You also need to see what the MAP kPa says with key on engine off then compare to what it reads at WOT. If it's more than 2 kPa you have an air restriction.
I'm sure I'm forgetting some things but those will give you a good start. Much past that and you will need a wideband and tuning software to really dig in.
Frost tuned cars usually run very well, but sometimes cars are weird...at the end of the day no mail order tune that doesn't use logs and multiple tries is going to be optimal and it could be way off. But you have a lot of things to check before pointing to the tuner.
Your MPH is garbage both in the 1/8th and 1/4. Garbage MPH with half decent 60ft means it's not making proper HP.
First thing to do is use a heat gun or water spray and check for equal heat on the header tubes. Chances are you have a busted plug or wire during install.
Next you need to scan the car with something to see what the timing is doing. Should be 24-28* at WOT. If it's not look for knock retard on the scanner. You could be using **** gas and the car running low timing or it could have false knock.
See that the o2 sensors are fluctuating. If they are hanging near 0mv, 450mv, or 900mv you have an issue with them or the wiring (also common with headers).
Scanner should also show Long Term Fuel Trims for both banks. They should be -0% to -10%. If they are positive that is bad because it means the PCM senses the car is lean and is adding fuel. Could be mechanical, electrical, or tune problem.
You also need to see what the MAP kPa says with key on engine off then compare to what it reads at WOT. If it's more than 2 kPa you have an air restriction.
I'm sure I'm forgetting some things but those will give you a good start. Much past that and you will need a wideband and tuning software to really dig in.
Frost tuned cars usually run very well, but sometimes cars are weird...at the end of the day no mail order tune that doesn't use logs and multiple tries is going to be optimal and it could be way off. But you have a lot of things to check before pointing to the tuner.