mods in sig. +500 DA. Still stock suspension, gears, converter and pump E85. 3580 Raceweight

And a pic to show car # matches slip

I want a 10.5 or so before I move on. Negative DA and a little more WR could do it. Want to avoid any race fuel. Would like to stay on stock converter too
Yeah not bad. Think I can drop another 100 before I stop. Still want to keep it fairly nice. If I add rear drag brakes, lexan glass in rear, carbon trunk lid, and billet 15 inch rear wheels will get me almost another 100. I’m not gonna remove panels or ac. Not gonna destroy the interior. No hardcore stuff.

My WR is-Front seat removed. Rear seat delete kit. 20 lb battery. Drag pack. Race brakes in front. Exhaust dumps.

I usually run an mbrp exhaust rest of the year I can easily swap to my dumps for the track. Front seat takes ten min to remove. The RSD kit looks nice and I actually have better storage now. It was useless for passengers over 3ft tall anyway. Battery is an easy swap. The most hardcore thing I’ve done is the front race brakes. Which I was hesitant about but don’t regret them so far. Hardly notice

Thanks that would be nice!

no I haven’t but E85 is worth a lot over 93 on these cars. 20-30 rwhp. So I’d say .2-3 slower all things equal if I was on 93.

the ported stock intake is a good much cheaper option. And it is better than a non ported msd for bolt on cars. With bolt on cars the msd is only slightly better and only if ported. Maybe a tenth over ported stock. I noticed more gain in mph about 2mph over ported stock. When you go heads and cam an msd really shines. 30 rwhp gain over 6000 rpm compared to stock. Other than that I’ve seen a couple hardcore options that are for 3500-8000 rpm setups. Texas speed is using one. Holley hi ram. And a couple other similar designs such as the goertz sheet metal intake very pricey and you lose a lot of low end.

ive run a ported stock and now run a ported msd first hand experience. As well as other info I’ve gathered from others at the track and dyno numbers

The converters aren’t showing that great if gains yet. They won’t lock until 4thgear. I’ve heard the problem is being worked on. But until then bolt on cars typically pick up only about a tenth in the 1/4 but lose a couple mph in trap speed. Once they get them locking after 1st they should help a little more.

A gear in the 3.08 to 3.27 range is best for a bolt on car depending on tire height and trap etc. some have tried a 3.73 and it didn’t seem to help because of an extra shift into 6th. Someone has now gotten a v6 1le 3.27 diff to work in an SS and it looks like it’s worth about a tenth

so yeah right now gears and converter only worth a couple tenths. Maybe a little more inthe future

10.9-11.1 in decent air is pretty damn easy to hit with a 6gen a8. After that it gets harder

headers, cai, E85, ported stock manifold and a 26 tall drag pack will get you high tens with good tuning with DA under 1500 or so. Traps around 123-125 range

if just hitting tens is your goal that’s the cheapest possible route.

im hunting for a 10.5 in negative DA and I have had to do a few more things. I’m sure I could go bottom tens with gear converter and fuel but I’m probably going to move on to heads cam next year figure 10.5 bolt on is respectable enough. 9s NA is my end goal and I should be able to do it without too much trouble given how fast I’m already going

look into pray performance when you get a 6g. Great guy. Great service. And is a 6gen whisperer. Knows everything about them. Amazing tuner. Great with porting. Anything you need. At this point in the game the difference between tune quality is huge. Not an easy platform to nail down and only a few guys really know what’s up at this point.