First Time Out With My New Build - Please Help Me Get Faster
#22
12 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Well you definitely gained a lot in the mph. Honestly I dunno how some guys are getting 117mph trap speeds in the 1/4 mile without weight reduction. My car's highest trap was a little over 112mph, and I'm making, supposedly, 408whp. Your mph is indicative of a 12 sec. car. A 2.0 or better 60' will get you there.
#23
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Even 4.30 only gets him to 119. A well modded ls1 with bolt ons should easily do 115 these days. I did 116.x in a bolt on ls1 that didn't even have headers.
#24
10 Second Club
I’d do 4.10’s max and throw the drag radials in the trash. Drag radials with a manual are only for very experienced people. Otherwise they kill a stick cars ET. Go to 4.10’s and a 26” slick.
a radial either dead hooks or blows the tires off. Slicks will slip without completely letting go, allowing the engine to stay in its power band
slicks are also easier on diffs than drag radials
a radial either dead hooks or blows the tires off. Slicks will slip without completely letting go, allowing the engine to stay in its power band
slicks are also easier on diffs than drag radials
#25
I’d do 4.10’s max and throw the drag radials in the trash. Drag radials with a manual are only for very experienced people. Otherwise they kill a stick cars ET. Go to 4.10’s and a 26” slick.
a radial either dead hooks or blows the tires off. Slicks will slip without completely letting go, allowing the engine to stay in its power band
slicks are also easier on diffs than drag radials
a radial either dead hooks or blows the tires off. Slicks will slip without completely letting go, allowing the engine to stay in its power band
slicks are also easier on diffs than drag radials
Grant
#27
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
I appreciate everyone's input and information. I am trying to learn as much as I can, so the next time I go I can improve a ton. I am willing to make changes, whether it be to the car or myself. I dont have a drag racing mentor, or any friends in the drag racing game. I also dont know anyone with a similar car and setup as mine, so it's tough being a newb.
#28
Grant
Last edited by weedburner; 11-27-2018 at 09:54 AM.
#29
10 Second Club
#30
10 Second Club
i am a fan of your piece though. I have one and will probably buy another. I had to twist a buddies arm to put one in his bolt on only fbody. Just loves it now. He’s running consistent 1.6’s with a best of 1.63. We’re sure he will get it into the 1.5’s with a manual through a 10 bolt and live! This is also on a slick though too
#32
Chev Performance stock clutch rules...
CLUTCH Clutch and Flywheel meeting SFI Spec 1.1 or 1.2 is required. Diaphragm Pressure Plate assembly is required. Single Clutch Disc with a minimum of 10 inches in diameter is required. Factory style mechanism for clutch operation is required. Clutch release must be manually operated by driver’s foot. The use of electronics, pneumatics, hydraulics, or any other device is prohibited from affecting clutch system/operation. Steel flywheel shield meeting SFI Spec 6.1 is mandatory. Flywheel shield cannot be modified for clutch adjustment and/or cooling holes.
Coyote Stock clutch rules...
CLUTCH Clutch and Flywheel meeting SFI Spec 1.1 or 1.2 is required. Diaphragm Pressure Plate assembly is required. Single Clutch Disc with a minimum of 10 inches in diameter is required. Factory style cable mechanism for clutch operation is required. 2005 and up Mustangs are allowed to retro--‐fit to the 79’--‐04’ factory style cable mechanism. Clutch release must be manually operated by driver’s foot. The use of electronics, pneumatics, hydraulics, or any other device is prohibited from affecting clutch system/operation. Unmodified Clutch Tamer is permitted. Steel flywheel shield meeting SFI Spec 6.1 is mandatory. Flywheel shield cannot be modified for clutch adjustment and/or cooling holes.
I do know the ClutchTamer was run in at least 2 CPS events last year.
Grant
#33
i am a fan of your piece though. I have one and will probably buy another. I had to twist a buddies arm to put one in his bolt on only fbody. Just loves it now. He’s running consistent 1.6’s with a best of 1.63. We’re sure he will get it into the 1.5’s with a manual through a 10 bolt and live! This is also on a slick though too
Quick way to see if there's any 60' left in those current ClutchTamer settings...
...add 1 turn clockwise to the outer delay **** and make a pass. If the 60 gets worse, that's ok and not a problem.
...add .5 turn clockwise to the inner hit dial per pass until the 60's stop improving.
4 or more turns of delay usually leads to the best 60's, but it's best to work your way up to that especially if you have a weak link in the drivetrain.
Some Coyote guys are up over 20psi in their slicks and still dead hooking.
Grant